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I finally found time to edit and publish the video. Here's how I did it A couple of months went by and so far so good!

I called Tesla and I was told that feedback would be passed up and that the language should eventually be added with an update. I understand the mispronunciation of the names though, Living in the swiss-italian region it's even funnier, no matter what language I choose.

turn off climate, that should quiet down most of the noise. Some noise is expected, however once the car is locked and has been "off" for a few minutes you shouldn't hear anything else

That's correct. I couldn't find a matching connector and I didn't want to splice/tap into the wires as I needed this to be fully reversible. The solid core wire fit perfectly into the female socket and that works for me. I'm hoping to have some time this week to put the video together because...

I recorded a video... I'll post it here once edited, however this was my solution, the resistor is rated for 100W, I thought I'd make sure it can handle more than what the speaker is rated for. So far, no more super loud ufo sounds!

My Swiss model 3 LR freeloading at a public Italian charger (delivered in September)

Hey guys, I'm a new M3 owner in Switzerland and I'd love to set my navigation language to English US. The menu only displays "British English" and this is really annoying. I have nothing against our kind English friends, however I really don't like the accent and I'd like to set it to what I use...

I'd probably be more comfortable with more than 4 rather than less than 4 due to the current draw, however with a 0.1ohm difference it probably doesn't matter.

if you went this far I'd probably just cut off the driver and put the resistor or the inductor in there. Removing the cone alone will likely just make it emit weird sounds with a higher pitch (though quieter?)

Hell yeah! What is that cap though? I'd love to get one of these! Is that from the isolation kit?

got a link to those tap connectors?

how would you suggest I connect the ends? Would there be a special connector out there that we can use or are we supposed to just hack it together? I'm mostly curious in the case someone else has done this already

if your PWS is broken you won't be able to measure the resistance, however there's a sticker on it which should indicate the specs (4Ohm 25W).

i looked it up and it's actually a 4 Ohm 25W speaker so I went ahead and ordered a 4 Ohms 100W resistor (just to be on the safe side). I'll hook it up once I get it and see if that clears the message. It'd be nice if I could somehow replicate the speaker 2-pin socket so that I can fit it in...

I don't mind it, however I live at an apartment complex where 10+ other people sleep exactly on top of my parking spot in which I always have to back into. I really really dislike bothering them with that UFO sound at 3-4 in the morning and since almost everyone sleeps with their windows open...