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Hey crew, There are a ton of examples of suspension "upgrades" from a performance standpoint. But I'm actually looking for options to increase ride comfort. I don't race or drag my MS. It's my daily driver, so comfort is always going to outweigh performance for me. I have a '15 MS 70D, coil...

How long until tall owners get tired of bending over to put their face in front of the b-pillar camera? As a +6' person, I can tell you, not long. What then? Add another camera just for facial recognition? Probably would have to anyway since the fisheye would distort anyway. I don't see it as...

I think matte PPF is the way to go. Either a clear matte, or matte/satin black or gray/silver.

As easy as the CT is to wrap, I suspect there will be a lot of questionable decisions made by DIY'ers. But also a bunch of cool ones as well.

Sure, adding a flat inch to the trunk lid will increase efficiency, and adding 2" would increase it more, 3" even more. Where does it end? Tesla had to pick a point at which they were comfortable stopping. So no, they aren't going to redesign their truck because they've already made the...

Yeah, the screens do come on when a door opens. They just shut off when I'm sitting in the car and close the door. And I'm assuming it's not the seat sensor since pushing the brake won't wake the car either, until about 10-20 seconds. So I'm leaning towards a software bug in the last update.

I'm having that now. Except mine has a delay of 10-20 seconds before the brake pedal will wake it up. Even if I leave the door open where the screens are on, it still won't awaken where I can choose a gear without that delay. I haven't been able to isolate it to any particular scenarios yet. It...

The doors opening isn't an issue. It's a delay of the car going from "Shut Off" to awake where I can choose a gear when I get in.

Couldn't hurt.

Anyone have the issue where you get in, and as soon as you shut the door the screens go blank? And pressing the brake doesn't bring the car to life until about 15-20 seconds. Even if I get in, keep the door open, so the screens are on, the brake pedal still won't activate the car until after...

I ordered some pre-cut vinyl door handle pieces in my car's color, then added a piece of clear PPF over those. It's not a perfect color match, but it's very close. You could easily do that with black too. I didn't bother trying to do the top or inside of the handles since they aren't seen most...

Well, since I have the glued-on type of panels, I can't remove them to gain access to the whole track. So based on some videos I've watched on YT (highly recommend prior to any DIY), I open the sunroof to about 30% I think, and that will allow access to the screws holding the glass panel on. I...

You put the chart in, presumably to support your statement: "So the test cycles involve repeatedly slowing the car to a stop. When the car regain more energy in the stopping phases due to Hold, it yields higher efficiency results and longer published range." If you're trying to make a point...

Okay, this chart doesn't show the energy gain from regen. It gives the mph, so thought experiment: If this test had an average mph of ~20 (19.59), and roll regen cuts off, for example, at ~10 mph (?), then the energy gain would be ~half, very roughly and conservatively estimated. Because I'd...

Okay, so the regime has to test another mode. So what? Roll and Creep aren't going to affect actual range, whether in a test or not. If Tesla doesn't come out publicly and say why they removed the modes, then we're all just speculating.

There are always going to be variables when calculating range. I'd like to see what difference it makes to range by adding regen from 10-0 mph. It can't possibly be enough to make much difference at all. I still believe it's more about programming simplicity for whatever they're currently...

Exactly! These aren't races. They're comparing apples to kumquats. Just because the HP's are similar doesn't mean they belong in the same class.

Several decent brands that aren't super expensive. Xpel 3M Vvivid If DIY: You can probably do your hood with a 5' x 5' piece, or pay more for a precut piece, but may not allow for edge wrapping. $150-$200 for the piece. More expensive brands could be $250-$300, depending on your source. But...

DIY or taking it to a pro?

Exactly! Better to have the choices. More options for more scenarios. Seems like a no-brainer. Especially since these are software options. They cost nothing to have in the cars. I'm sure the programming is a bit more complicated, but come on, that's a minor detail. And they've already had it...

It's a personal preference. I like the Roll option, prefer to have standard regen turn off around 10 mph and I have more control of when I stop. I haven't driven a newer model, so I don't know how the regen stop feels. Creep I could take or leave. But I don't think roll or creep are that...

I must've read that differently than you. It sounds to me like they're putting together a team that will be specifically tasked with taking data/feedback from other departments, like Quality, Engineering, and Manufacturing, with the purpose of a different form of continuous improvement...

20 somethings can't afford any of these EV's. (w/o parents help) Why would the companies waste their money advertising to them? Tesla had 2 advantages (at least): 1) They were well established, and predate the 2020 financial collapse, and subsequent inflation and interest rate spikes. Which...

I'm sure the leasing co gets kickbacks for referring that biz. Always do your own research, and get a 2nd (or even 3rd) opinion/quote.

I respect the funny car drivers, the top fuel drivers, etc... There is real skill in riding the line of speed and control when you technically have too much power and have to use skill to control it to reach max speeds. Tesla's are not that. Neither are any of the modern super cars. The computer...

Hang on. Something was misread I think. @swt2c said: "It's for cars that were originally delivered with AP 2.0 hardware and have purchased FSD package." Your MCU2 upgrade cost more than mine I believe. AP 1.0 cars = $1750 for MCU2 upgrade AP 2.0 = $2000+? because of the cameras So you're...

So, not free. Gotcha. :rolleyes:

You may be right. I have zero knowledge/experience with CCS stations. I've just seen several posts on here about them being frequently broken/out of service. And no real rush to fix them. But that's strictly from this forum.

It's just a rendering man. Same black.

The longer the cable, the more instances of damage occurring, which means more overall down time for that charger, and more cost to fix them more often. Tesla isn't going to simply double the length of the cables just for convenience. It still has to be cost-effective for them.

It only takes one jerk having a bad day to pop off and start a confrontation. TX and FL could end up with shots fired.

Big picture: It's not as simple as just cost reduction. I read somewhere that nearly 50% of the parts in the Highland are new/different from the old M3. So Tesla is improving the car overall. They are looking at parts reduction/count, not just cost reduction. They add a screen to the back...

I wouldn't even want to begin trying to replace the wires that are glued into the controller. I'm still not convinced that switch is the problem. I'll just have to live with it until it becomes an annoyance worth paying mobile to fix. I do appreciate your info and research.

Thanks I didn't pay attention when I was working on it. Do the other end of the wires from the switch have a connector? Or do they just go directly into the controller? Looks like Mouser has a 200 pc min order. And Farnell is backordered. Maybe I don't know how to read the specs, but I don't...

Guess that's possible. Unfortunately, you can't buy just that switch w/wires.

Yeah, I did that. Removed the switch, and bent the bracket to adjust it. I just don't know the exact setup the switch needs.

- Aftermarket paddle gear. - Didn't measure, but looked the same length. -The OE rings didn't fit the new paddle. -The metal arm from the switch seemed to have a bit of side-to-side play that was making it easier to slip off the paddle. But it wasn't "loose" per se. From what I can tell, it's...

No. It was a simple paddle replacement. I've done one before, and that one went fine without a hitch. This one had the slippage of the sensor arm, and I can't figure it out. It's not the common switch fails on either side of the handle, and no kit I've found includes the paddle switch sensor...

Does anyone know what the proper setup is for the paddle sensor switch in a gen 2.0 door handle assembly? I recently had a broken paddle gear, so I swapped it out, but when the handle presents, the metal piece from the paddle switch sensor is slipping off the top of the paddle, so when the...

Not so much the sunroof itself, but they changed how the access panels were attached. Early ones were actually glued on. Not the smartest day for some engineer. That caused major issues when trying to service the sunroof tracks, making service centers rip them off and have to replace the panels...

Great points! Just think about the urban scenes around the world in late 2020. So many visibly clearer skies because there were a fraction of the ICE cars on the road. The Earth can heal itself if we let it. Also keep in mind, not all electricity is "dirty". Albeit a very small percentage at...

My guess is Tesla programmed that delay in to be easier on the tires, and motor to some extent.

Sadly, your exaggeration isn't that far off. Between the gov red tape, enviro approvals, etc, yeah, it's 5-10 yrs. Which is part of the problem. Because many of the hoops put in place to jump through are to avoid the next 3-Mile Island/Chernobyl, but those aren't even applicable due to the new...

Renewable also not consistent enough for mass grid reliability. Sun isn't shining 24/7. Wind doesn't blow 24/7. Even drought can affect hydro at times, and not everywhere has a usable water source anyway. Nuclear is the best option for the next 10-25 yrs. We'll see where batt tech and...

I see it this way: There is a need for both long and short range vehicles. As mentioned by others, rural areas actually need more range, not just a want, a need. Urban areas, really don't need the range. They have affordability and size concerns more than range anxiety. So, here's the problem...

Pre-conditioning the battery is for the health of the battery. It operates/charges better at optimal temp. So it's a good thing. That said, unless you're trying to defrost ice from the glass, 5-10 minutes should be plenty of time to get the interior warm. Only ICE drivers would preheat for 20...

I recently upgraded to MCU2, mostly just to keep getting updates, as I think Tesla's MCU1 support will eventually halt. My MCU1 wasn't acting up, but early on when I did have a few issues, turning off the power save mode seemed to fix my issues. Worth a try. But if you plan to keep the car for...

Agree with all of this. "A scaled 48V system to minimize copper wire usage." Getting away from the 12V wiring is a MUCH bigger manufacturing savings than most people realize. So much less material, so many more options for flexibility.

Hey, I'm with you on that. I couldn't care less about a truck with a bunch of mods. That's exactly what I'm saying. Doesn't matter if it's a truck, car, boat, those God awful custom golf carts, it's all about being seen. I ask again, why else would someone buy a vehicle they don't have a use...