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When I had f_036 I had a bad rear motor. I didn’t have any internal leaking or anything. Think the inverter board burned up inside the motor

Sorry, dyi would be like $500. SC will prob be $1500 or so I bet. Best of luck and let us know how is goes.

Depending on your mechanic skill. They can be easy to fix for under $500 for one if not both. I believe they make dummy plugs to test and make sure what component is keeping the hvil from working properly.

I believe when I got f_150 it was either the prv heater or ac. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-error-code-bms_w150-and-bms_f150.219130/

Not in my case. Must of came loose? No other way to explain it. Disconnected it, cleaned up what I could and reinstalled and worked, easiest way to start other then changing out high voltage parts and hoping it works. Your service screen should show you if your hv contactors are even closing.

Another thread that might help out. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/what-is-the-problem-with-error-bms_f036.269684/page-2#post-7510252

Have you tried the rapid splitter from battery to rear motor/dc/dc connector. My 17 MX had the issue and seemed like there was a lot of arching. Got a new one off eBay and solved my issue. You’re an older model so might be the same as mine. I’m have to drop the rear subframe to get to it .

Might be water, my drain clogged up and had about inch or so pooling. Have to remove taillight to replace. Sensor was submerged in water.

Not sure that was the best choice. You didn’t mess the rubber boot/metal clip/rink that holds runner boot or bearing up in that? Should have removed the whole cv axel from the motor instead of that.

Bms_f027 needs reset with t-daig or toolbox 3. Won’t work till that code is manually cleared from the bms. This thread has a video on it. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-model-s-stopped-working-car-may-not-restart.129097/page-3

Best to go into the service screen and see what the faults are. Gives you a better description and you can also check your ohm’s resistance/in your hv connection is actually closing.

You will def have to drop the sun frame with the 4 bolts.(two on each side). You may be able to get a small pry bar in where my finger is pointing to get to it. This is my 17 MX so the MS may be a little different

I’ll snap a better picture of mine when I get home today. You will have to remove the inner fender liner as well to complete see into the underneath. You will see the subframe(picture), it will be located in front of subframe pretty tight in there. You can see in second picture where my hv lines go

The pins look pretty clean with little to no arc spots. Look like any water got under the boot? Sometimes that isn’t pushed in hard enough or lined up great.sometimes take a pry bar and pushing “firmly” not hard on it will push it in the full 100% in it needs to go in. I know the original posted...

Model x rapid splitter is located on the drive side rear end. You will have to remove your rear driver side tire and will see the orange hv wires coming from an aluminum block that’s attacked to the top/rear part of the battery. @JCM_76 I believe he has a model s so would know better then I...

Incase anyone needs help with a similar problem. Turns out my rear motor was bad. Replaced it and codes went away and hvil was good. I disconnect the wire harness from the rear sub frame and it made the f036 code go away. Other thing I tried and it seems to work for MS over the MX is the hv...

FINALLY got my motor shipped. Had some bad luck with weather and the freight company but finally arrived. Even better, it fixed my bms_f036 issues. Still a little more body work to do but can charge/heater and ac work and hv connectors doing their thing.

Still waiting on the motor to come in. My area sucks to get residential freight shipped. Should be early next week I’m hoping. I’ll def make sure to let everyone know what happens.

No, the x has two harness for the rear sub frame wiring harness. The one is just for the rear motor, the other is for the parking brake and speed sensors in the wheel hubs.

Just an update. I was able to determine it was my rear motor. I removed my hv rapid splitter to test what codes came up and got a rapid splitter error. (Didn’t snap a pic but was a 126 code if I remember) something about branch connection in rapid splitter not connected, went through all the hv...

I’ll try and check when I can. Most of that is the same for ms to mx.couple connectors in different places and everything under car instead of seats. I know there are two low voltage harnesses coming from the back side of battery next to hv rapid splitter. The both run into the car, thinking to...

Just the bms_w036 and bms_f036. I get the di_u014;gtw_w018 when I press the brake. I get my reader on Wednesday to check the batter on the “scan my Tesla” app. I did a check on the components and the are all getting well above the ohms rating on my snap on multimeter. I unbolted the rapid...

Wondering as well. When I took my rapid splitter off and readjusted it. I forgot to put the responder loop back on. I did lose the f036 but had the f062 and f033 which normally lead to the loop not being connected. So maybe my rapid mate is fine and there is a bad...

Sadly that didn’t work for me. Does your rapper splitter bolt to the car like the x does? So hard to give it a little push. I did check my hv responder loop and it’s “not” getting 20ma. I still think it may be my rapid splitter but in the batter side. Maybe the female ends of those plugs pushed...

Awesome to hear. Now when you say push, I’d that from the pins in the rapid splitter or the battery? I’m going to give that a go this weekend. That was going to be my first check.

Got into service mode and looks like hv battery state is fault. Would that be imbalance of the battery pack or a Bms issue/replacement. Would a t-dang or toolbox 3 be able to see that?

so all my hv component seem fine. Went into the service side and found this in the high voltage tab. Hvil is green light but state is red light. So now I have to figure out if my Bms is bad or the cells are bad in the battery. Looks like I will be dropping my battery to check it.

@JCM_76 Well some update as I think about my issue tonight. 1st: the instructions say to pull the hvil loop when doing this test so you will have voltage at pin 11. 2: all of my rear components seem to checking out ok. I didn’t have time to start ripping apart front to check up there. Some...

I believe it still may. I still have yet to try it. (My MX is outside and weather hasn’t been nice.) the hv side isn’t connecting but the 11 pin should be one of the low voltage harnesses going into battery on the passenger side. I’ve read about those pins inside either corroding or the pin...

I have found these two links to trouble shoot the issues to figure out if it’s not closing or if something else is wrong. You can see the x035 to be the pin that closes in the hv rapid splitter. On the low voltage side it’s pin 11 that needs to be checked for power/ohms...

Got a salvage 17 model x 90d. Rear subframe was damaged when ran off the road. It also messed up the rear passenger air suspension and control arms. There were no codes when I got it and charger battery to 85% before starting any work as it was down to 5%. Removed sub frame and installed new...

Ever figure out the issue?

Any update on the fix? Have same codes. Replaced hv splitter and all hv lines and code still comes up. Do the codes need to be cleared to go away?

Awesome to hear. Mine should be in soon. Question though, did the bms_f036 code go away after the fix or did you have to clear it with a coder? (T-daig/Loki/toolbox)

I’ve been dealing with the bms_f036 code in my 2017 MX. I’m in the process right now of ordering and replacing the HV rapid splitter harness. It goes to front motor, rear motor and charge controller. The hv positive line had a tear in it at the rear motor. Hoping replacing that harness removed...