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ehhh.... maybe not. I thought I might have noticed the vibration starting on my 2024 now.... Of course, right after I sold off my lowering links, thinking I wouldn't need them!
Yeah, it was when the lines got bad with no car in front. It would drive right off the road. It would follow the ghost old lines during construction, directly into a barrier.
Make sure you drive the highland model 3. The old model 3 suspension was harsh. The new highland model 3 suspension felt much better. Perhaps even smoother than my Plaid.
I'm only 5'9", but the display is blocked for me. I think because I want the steering wheel adjusted to point towards my...
I had the yoke on my previous Plaid and it was fine. But, I wasn't about to pay $1000 more for it, especially with all the quality issues. I didn't notice the wheel blocks the speed limit sign when I test drove the car.
I actually wish the S didn't have a dash display. You can't see it anyway, the wheel blocks a good portion of it. The 3 is much more open feeling and spacious with bigger glass. I had a model 3 for 3 years and S's for 5 years. It really isn't a big deal with the speed over on the main screen...
That's what I did... I spun the wheel again after my buyback. I don't think I will have as brutal depreciation this time, since it was $89k this time, instead of $146k. I don't think there's much point in doing another fire sale on the S/X, when they could drop the 3/Y price by just a few...
They likely did what I suggested almost 2 years ago. Shifted power to the rear motors under light acceleration in the 40-50 mph range. I don't think they changed the power under wide open acceleration. It still feels very strong. But, that is why we lost ~2 miles of range.
I think they are going to have to deliver something for all the people who paid for FSD on legacy hardware. It's going to be a mess. I don't know how long they will keep supporting the older hardware, but at least until they can legally call "FSD" complete, I'd guess.
I'd try to train it first, it might be one that the car can emulate without doing anything. I use $8 openers off amazon for my garage door. I think the protocol has been standardized for a long time. Or ask someone with a Tesla with homelink to test it out. Might just work with your existing...
I was thinking you could just add a cheap homelink receiver to whatever gate and garage door opener you have. Looks like they are under $20 on amazon. How old is your garage door opener that it doesn't work with homelink? Mine is from 2001, still programmed right up.
Yeah, they didn't do anything like that. They slobbered on some touch up paint. They didn't even clean up the paint chips from the carpet on the inside of the car from the hammering. Incredible.
You could check the actual part number on the motor and see if it is a regular motor or a performance motor. If it is a performance motor, then you might be able to get someone to fix the programming.
Does it come from the triangle window on the drivers side? I think I've got the same issue. Did you take delivery at Raleigh? Sounds like the same poor delivery experience I had.
Yeah, you can calibrate them, but I think mine are still too recessed, especially in the rear. It makes the puddle lights not work. I'll check at night.
lower state of charge is better. definitely not 100%. 60% might be good, but you do want to have plenty of buffer for parasitic draw while it is off. I'd guess 80% maximum SOC.
I'm feeling pretty good about my car a week after delivery. I was able to sort out a few of the issues. I have three things scheduled for service:
1. Replace the wheel they curbed.
2. Fix the janky touchup paint on the hinge that was hammered into submission.
3. Adjust the driver's door window...