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That honestly is a bad photo example. I did test against DC as well as amperage. I just didn’t take a photo of it. No luck. From what I’ve read, it sounded like Tesla turned off the power to that connector for now.

That’s even more interesting. I heard that Austin builds are different than the Fremont ones. It may further affirms the assumption that there’s a difference in the battery, and that Tesla turned it off for my vehicle.

Oh that’s interesting. Is it actually detects what’s being tapped/plugged in, rather than a constant power source. That would explain why it hasn’t worked from a conventional sense for a lot of people.

I thought this as well, and so I tested the wires in every combination possible, even going so far as to using the metal frame for the ground instead of the black wire. No luck.

Nice to meet the man behind the videos :)! I watched your second one quite a few times, and gave me the idea to try tapping into the VCRight. Unfortunately, I tried looking for and tested 6 different cables. No luck. I may have had better luck if I had a second body to help sit on and press the...

Thanks! And yep, the 4-pin is what I was referring to. I did tests as well with being in the car, stepping on the brakes, etc. No voltage, nada. Seems a little strange to me that they sell the harness and the trailer hitch kit still but can’t hook it to that port.

Hey all, first time starting a thread. I recently picked up my 2023 Model Y, and one of the first things I wanted was to hardwire my phone mount charger. I like the clean look and convenience :). There are quite a few threads and YouTube videos on how to hardwire your dashcam, phone charger...

So from what I can tell from your post, you used that spare white-colored port for the trailer brake lights that has 4 pins. Is that correct? If so, I tested this by stepping on the brakes to “turn on” the car. Multimeter still read 0V. Not sure what’s going on. I attached a photo for reference.

Another quick update since my post just yesterday. Got the notice this morning that I can schedule my pickup as early as this Friday, Jan. 27th. So if all goes well, and there are no issues that will cause me to reject the car, that means the window from placing an order to picking up my Model...

What what I understand, it’ll be through the app as well as through the portal on your Tesla account

Another quick update: Ordered placed: Jan. 13 Date range of delivery (original): Jan 19 to Feb 2 Date changes: Jan date keep updating to current date as days passed, Feb date changed from 2nd and remained on 3rd. VIN received: Jan. 22 Delivery window has shortened and now updated to: Jan 25 to...

Sort of? So my date range originally was Jan 19 to Feb 2. Then Jan 20th came along and the date range changed to Jan 21 to Feb 3. So now I’m think “oh great, they’re going to play this game by just shifting the date range 1 day over 1 day at a time…”. As the days go by though, the only day...

Well at least the date range is accurate at least for now lol. So the date range showing in my app has been changing a little. It now says Jan 21 to Feb 3, and so far, the Jan date has been updating to reflect today’s date. I guess that’s… kind of good news so as long as the Feb. date doesn’t...

The question becomes: once you have specific date ranges rather than month to month, how accurate is the date that you’ll get delivery within the range? I placed my order on Jan. 13th. Blue color, 5-seat, Gemini wheels. The app tells me delivery Jan 19 - Feb 2. Haven’t gotten a VIN assignment...