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Full coverage on my 2014 P85D is over $2,000/yr and collision is nearly $1,300 of that. I'm 50+ with no accidents and collisions, etc. At this point, I'm going to cancel my collision coverage. If I had damage like the OP, I wouldn't submit it because it could literally total the car. I would...

My SC blacklisted me when I asked too many questions about HV battery pack parts listed at OTC. To their credit, the next time I looked, those internal parts were gone from the catalog, but the point remains, Tesla actively does everything they can to get the old cars off the road hoping people...

To the OP: Sorry you are going through this. As mentioned, the tesla reman packs are really sketchy in quality. They basically take a pack that recently failed in someone else's car, fix up the acute issue, and sell it to you for $16k. It is a huge profit center for them even though the...

What are your thoughts on a stainless cap pressed into the 55.0mm to 54.9mm bore? Would 55.1mm be too tight at the bottom and cause the cup to buckle?

I bet you a six pack of your choice the two 'bad' bricks were totally fine and the capacitors on that BMB just rotted out. There is no way 148 cells each dropped a full volt without the fire department being aware. :)

It is a shame we can't source a 55mm/30mm seal like this because it is the correct application for our motors. I'd bet Tesla looked into something like this and decided it was too expensive so they stayed with the various dumpster fires we have been dealing with.

My 2014 was December 2014 but the battery was replaced in Q1-2015. It was a new pack and I'm not sure 'why'. The original owner mentioned it, but I didn't know enough at the time to ask more details.

Gruber has a video showing an oscilating tool. The blade needs a step in it to work correctly. I used the side of a breaker bar which wasn't ideal. Also - I also cut one of the coolant tubes during the lid removal which caused a giant PITA so proceed carefully. Some of the coolant tubes can...

If the Rev U and other coolant delete options being to crash and burn(up) bearings over the next couple years, this will be good information to circle back to. Tesla clearly cut corners on the solution for whatever reason. Nobody will convince me they thrashed around with derivatives of the...

I was confused about ‘with or without rotor loop’.

I don't totally understand the question. Rephrase please?

I'm thinking about the cooling of the gearbox from the original design and I suspect the coolant exiting the rotor is hotter than the gearbox fluid on the other side of the heat exchanger. I don't think that coolant is doing any 'cooling' in the original design. More likely, it serves to keep...

It is a 2014 P85D with a very early 2015 battery. I don't know why the original owner had the battery swapped but it was a new 2015 battery at the time. Interestingly, the sticker is missing but the SC confirmed the part number and serial number...

If someone can source a two-stage cap to press into the seal bore, it would be the simplest (cost effective) solution by far. I would caution people to make sure there is no coolant inside the motor already before doing just the manifold. Once the coolant is there, it will rust and cause other...

Not sure if it has been mentioned, but toolbox 3 only has flags for battery and self-powered (new/current) fuse types. The sand fuse isn't an option. In the service manual, it reads if the tech finds a sand fuse to leave it in place. When I looked at mine, my sand fuse was flagged as...

Ironic 2 years to the day after the last comment I Google to find the same answer and still - no text to voice volume adjustment.

Are you doing the coolant delete? If not, make sure to check for coolant leaking on the new unit before you install it.

Thanks Alex. People who might want the extra cooling might be people towing an RV with a Model X or people who spend every weekend at the dragstrip or track with their DL? Safe to say people who occasionally squirt up the onramp or make a passenger giggle with a occasional launch are probably...

Alex, quick question on installing the oil option later: As discussed briefly in the Facebook group, the leaking seal will pretty quickly destroy itself when the car is driven 'dry'. If someone has a leak today and opts to install the coolant delete now, I presume adding the oil coolant later...

The two photos are just showing the highest and lowest values so and they both look okay. Isn't 107 the error that pops up when the BMS suddenly loses voltage for one or more bricks - usually the sign of a broken sensor wire connection? The challenging thing is knowing where it happened. When...

If Rev U does get a power Nerfing firmware, Tesla will certainly be keeping this as quiet as possible so the certainly won't write 'installed power-limiting firmware to LDU control to offset our new design compromise'. A couple of members have reported buying a Rev U over the counter. I wonder...

My understanding is this is the reason they went to ceramic bearings - the very first motors had arcing problems. The G48 does conduct some but certainly not like a carbon brush. Your question is one of the many things that 'could go wrong' with a major design change. As more of these go into...

This does look like a new unit which is probably why it is dry at 50,000 miles. Mine is a original/new and was dry when I checked at about 70,000. I'm going to keep running it until it starts to leak. When that happens, hopefully we will have an extremely high instance of 'no problems' from...

I believe this to be true also but have we ever found any confirmation of this - even someone with (claims) knowledge speaking off the record? I've also heard that they mix and match modules to make 400V packs work. If they do, hopefully they have some rigs to measure the CAC and match...

I’m concerned what happens to the stock when the narrative really starts to change about the longevity issues. Right now they can just excuse the legacy cars but I’ve seen at least three 2019 and newer HV failures this week. When the 2nd gen packs that were supposedly ‘better’ start to fail at...

We looked over everything we can glean from pictures and it looks like doing the 'two plug' method should work fine. What are we missing?

Incidentally, I just checked eBay (USA) and I don't see any 1050951-00-A boards available which is the exact board I have. Someone more knowedgable should be able to tell you if any other part numbers are compatible. Anything with the same form-factor and connections might work but I'm not...

Great news! I haven't seen the 150 error. Hopefully that isn't too much trouble. As you were inspecting your caps, did you notice the bottom half of the plastic shield making contact with the BMB - specifically C27 and C26? Several of my plastic covers were making contact which was slowly...

Mack, Since you have the pack open, I would recommend checking all of the modules carefully. There are 112 sensor wire connections plus the BMB boards to check. I poked all of mine with a plastic tool, cleaned each with 200 proof alcohol and recoated each with another layer of conformal...

Mack, those voltage readings certainly look bogus. When I was doing mine, someone said to match the part number. My BMB looked just like that and also said Rev01 but I was told it was actually Rev 1.5. I think the difference is that ours have a socket for the sensor wires instead of being...

There is a lot of sorcery in the answer to that question that I don't understand. It isn't just the imbalance - it is the behavior of the imbalance. When the BMS detects a brick that starts to behave differently than its neighbors, it will throw the 029 code if it passes a certain threshold...

Good point on Regen continually 'working' the battery. The real reason to avoid superchargers is that it is cheaper to charge at home... unless you have SC01. Personally, I enjoy getting a quick 100 miles of range on the way home knowing that it is cutting into Tesla's bottom line just that...

I'm starting to think there isn't much sorcery that we can focus - just let the car do its thing. I'm also glad this isn't filling up with speculation and anecdotes. If someone actually KNOWS the current logic/routine, I've love to hear it. Otherwise, please don't just share to keep it...

I'm glad your got the battery back online Richard! As Howard mentioned, definitely check the pressure on the cooling system to make sure you didn't cut or crack any of the tubes or pinch any o-rings. There are 32 possible failure points. I just assumed that was a non-issue and it cost me 2-3...

It would be very interesting to pull back the curtain and learn what the Wizard is doing pulling all the ropes and levers inside the BMS/BMB logic. In every instance, Tesla climbs on the desk and shouts the S word as loudly as they can (Safety!) to justify limiting capacity, charge speeds and...

There was a massive thread that contains a lot of arguing about range and capacity calculations which I don't want to resurrect here. I'm not linking for reference so it doesn't get thread-necro'd! It has been dead for a few years now... ;) The information below was from page 57 of that thread...

There are certainly design improvements and things Tesla can learn from other OEMs (who likely looked at Tesla's failure modes and decided to do it better). At the end of the day, I still think the breathing is academic if we can't pull the moisture out of the packs. Does anyone have a 3D...

I did make a tester for that - mostly from air compressor bits. It is nearly impossible to find a pressure regulator that will reduce a 100psi air compressor hose to .19psi and there are breathers in the pack that went above that not to mention the umbrella valves. I didn't feel like this was...

This is what success looks like. The photo was taken tonight outside the restaurant where we celebrated a working Tesla. I appreciate all of the help from people like Russ, Paul, Chad, Jerry and Ray, but especially Howard who has been my thought partner on all things Tesla since we met over...

My bottom sections weren't threaded into the pack - they were pressed up in with two tabs to keep them from spinning when the top was inserted. The bottom section seals with o-rings which keeps any water in the center of the barrel making it critical to have the teflon tape seal to keep that...

Okay, no more bubbles. Pressure testing to .19psi is a bit of a challenge. I can register about 1psi on the digital gauge with my lungs so I decided to go that route because I don't trust the regulator that low. It takes a few puffs to pressurize the pack like that, but once I can't push...

Note to self - make a generous bead around the perimeter. Too much is better than too little.

Some updates - I cycled coolant around for an hour with a little stick pump from Amazon and managed to get no more bubbles exiting the pack. I'm certain there ARE bubbles in there because the pump is at such a low pressure and volume but it did take maybe 3/4 of a gallon of coolant so much...

I let the car take a software update so it wouldn't try tonight when I couldn't watch it. During the update, the charger stopped and an alert popped up on my phone screen. I took a gulp and waited. Communication came back after the reboot and the contactors closed again. Hopefully it behaves...

I'm not going to celebrate too much because last time I got excited, I dumped a bunch of coolant into the pack and set myself back a couple of weeks. No coolant in the variables right now except for the bucket under the rapidmate catching the drips. Charging a couple of percent at 5amps to...

I powered things on briefly and f123 was still there. I presume it would take time to clear on its own - it wants several samples over a period of time with no low iso before it gives up the code? The good news is my extension cords worked and the total imbalance across 96 bricks is 10mV.

That would be nice. I had ALL the warning codes but only the one failure... w158, w142, w123, w035 AND f123

Good to know because the next trick is to plug the pack in with my extension cords and see what it looks like. I think I will still have the low iso code latched from the coolant debacle so more toolbox probably.

It charged for about 16 hours yesterday and appears to finally be topped up to match its neighbors. It takes a bit of finesse because the voltage it reads while charging is higher than it reads when you disconnect the charger (obviously) and then the voltage drops a bit while it stabilizes...

Thank you - that is now my experience also.