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"Millions and millions of foam-filled tires installed, and a fraction of a fraction have foam failure . . . and you use that as a BIG data point to remove foam from all remaining tires?" Millions and millions is still millions. A fraction of a fraction is still a fraction. Talk about BIG data...

Nice write-up. Any idea what passed through the gear teeth to leave those marks? Something had to come loose for that to happen.

Nowhere did I encourage anyone to remove the foam, I merely stated that the foam absorbs tire sealant. However, I should have been clearer, my next set of tires will not have foam inside, but I'll ride these out for now. Somehow for me flat tires don't happen near tire shops.

OK, I take it back. Tesla has no idea what their doing.

The jury is still out, keep following the thread and we should have an answer.

The biggest negative to having foam lined tires, besides the foam coming loose, is that any tire sealant you use to fix a flat will soak into the foam and not repair the leak. The tire can still be patched though. But it is odd that Tesla's own tire repair kit will not work on the stock tires...

Tesla has more experience selling EV's than anyone, reporting sales and leases to the IRS is second nature to them. It would be very odd if they made a sale and did not report it to the IRS. Somewhere along the way they get everyone's SS #. This isn't Ford or Chevy.

The obvious answer is to take it back to the installer, or give them a call. Since they are aftermarket, they should be able to tell you how they come off.

When you replace the bearings, what kind do you use? In other words, what brand are they and what type? Thanks.

Tapered roller bearings are the preferred bearing for any application that has radial and axial load. A car wheel fits this application.

It would be interesting to know if they're tapered roller bearings, double-row ball bearings, or needle bearings. I would almost assume tapered roller bearings, then the pre-load of the bearing comes into play. BMW and Audi use bearing assemblies where the hub and bearing are already assembled...

As a camper myself, it takes way too much time to set up and take down. Maybe it would get faster over time, but I couldn't see doing this in the rain. And the most obvious downfall, you can't drive with the tent up.

Sorry, but nobody eats in my car. Nobody. It's a car, not a cafeteria.

It's March 17th and H&R Block pushed back the release of their form 8936 for another week. Now they're saying it will be available on Friday 3/22. They've been pushing it back a week at a time since February 16th. We said F*** it and bought TurboTax, it worked just fine. It's obvious H&R Block...

It looks like you need to use a Tesla Service Center or Electrified Garage. Electrified Garage has 2 shops, according to their website. Amesbury Mass. and Ocala Fl. Doesn't help me much.

As a machinist, I can tell you it is very difficult to resurface slotted discs. As the rotor turns on the lathe, the tool bit jumps a thousandth or two every time it hits a slot. This jumping usually breaks off the tip of the tool bit, and with six slots, that's six 'jumps' for each rotation on...

Why kick on the way out? I've owned a few Audi's in the past and now drive a Tesla. I can relate to the comparisons, with the understanding that it's one person's opinion. Thanks to the OP for the review.

It's funny how Tesla has no problem telling Tesla drivers how we should deal with non-Teslas at charging stations. What Tesla should be doing is telling other manufacturers they must relocate their charging ports to the left rear of the vehicle. And why hasn't any manufacturer picked up on this...

Same with mine, if I lightly press the button, I get only the wipers. If I push the button all the way in, I get wipers and fluid. It is a little touchy, but I got used to it. The length of time I hold the button in determines how long the fluid pump activates.

$2,999.95 at Crutchfield. It seems it does not fit M3 without rear deck speakers, it has a wiring harness similar to Hansshow. 3 bills is a lot, I'll pass.

None of this bothers me in the least. There's misinformation purposely put out there on every subject imaginable. Many large corporations, and wealthy influential people have a lot to lose when the ICE becomes extinct. They see this as a fight for survival. The reality is the price of Tesla...

Well, we know he's not a gas pump.

I bought my M3 in April of 2023, and have had none of these issues. Some wind noise at the passenger side window at higher speeds, but that's about it. I guess I got lucky. To the OP - hopefully you bought the car because it doesn't need hardly any maintenance. Rotate tires, that's about it...

Any reason you started 3 threads on the same subject?

Yes and yes.

After installing the Faital Pro 4FE32-8's in the dash, I never went any further. I got distracted with another project, and I'm pretty happy with how it sounds now anyway. Maybe once the weather warms up, I will add the sound insulation in the doors.

I have the ISU 200's in my doors also, pretty happy with the sound. For $950 the difference in sound would have to be pretty amazing. I have to admit though, I am curious.

Here in the Northeast, with potholes all over the place, it's not unusual over time to replace ball joints. Maybe not so much in Florida. To me the simple answer is zerk (grease) fittings. I'm surprised Tesla has not starting adding them to the manufacturing process. It's a simple, cheap fix...

5 minutes for a wheel alignment? Exaggerating just a little, aren't you?

Everything I've heard is exactly the opposite. Range anxiety seems to be on every non-EV driver's mind and is a main 'talking point' of Big Oil. Just wondering too, how does the rental get paid to the owner?

....Will the repairs keep pouring in? Probably not. I've driven quite a few ICE cars into the 160,000 mile range. What usually starts going are the alternator, catalytic convertor, starter motor, water pump/cooling system, etc. You don't have any of that. Suspension is always considered a wear...

Sounds like a faulty pushbutton. Any chance you can swap out the front door and rear door switches? If the problem moves to the rear door, there's your answer. Also a small chance it's a loose wire.

Thanks for posting that, it was way better then Elon's 'release party'.

I got mine by logging into my Tesla on-line account. Then > "dashboard" > "manage" under the image of your car > "documents". There should be a drop-down menu of PDF files that has what you're looking for.

My guess is probably not. When I arrived in April of this year at my scheduled time, my car was sitting in the lot in front of the Tesla 'showroom' with about 7 other new cars. The plates were on the car and I walked into the building. They had all my paperwork on a clipboard, and we walked out...

How about a bigger rear view mirror? It can't be that much more $$, it barely lets me see out of the whole back window.

Model 3 SR Premium Audio Upgrade still dead in the water on the Hansshow website, what's up with that? Will you ever get back to selling it again?

Unless you're on a design team, what's the point of only studying the drivetrain, it can't stand on it's own? I'm really not trying to challenge you dsgerbc, I'm just trying to understand the purpose of the study, which was released in July of 2022. Glad they're updating it though.

The study is flawed if it only takes into account the drivetrain. They are comparing man hours of assembling an ICE motor to an electric motor/battery assembly. To get the whole picture you need to factor in the exhaust system, radiator and related parts, transmission, rear end, gas tank, etc...

There is a small port (hole) in the sensor that allows the sensor to read the air pressure. The 'slime' can clog the port and it can no longer take pressure readings.

That's insane. I paid $379 for the Focal ISU-200's for the front doors, and the Amped Garage mounting adapters were $40.

Sometimes factory passwords are incredibly simple, sometimes not. If you never set one up, it still has the factory password. Try '0000' or some other simple combination. You might get it easier than you'd think you would.

Sorry, but now I'm confused. I bought a "Tire Repair Kit" from Tesla's website for $70. Now you're saying Tesla doesn't sell tire repair kits. If so, what's that Tesla thing with the air pump and sealant that's now in my trunk? https://shop.tesla.com/product/tire-repair-kit

There were 1 or 2 t20's where I couldn't even get the little ratchet in there. I had to use a 1/4" open end wrench to turn the bit. It took a while since the screws are self- tapping and are screwed into nylon blocks.

Settled? You just opened a can of worms.

I was never happy with the sound from the very sub-par audio system in my Model 3 SR. I knew I had to do something, but there are many different opinions and choices as to what direction to head. The Hansshow upgrades were a possibility, but the results seemed mixed. Some loved the newly...

I sent an email to Hansshow yesterday asking some questions about their subwoofer package I was considering purchasing, I received the following reply: At the moment, we are not offering any audio upgrade products. Hope this helps! Kind regards, Norma Not sure how to interpret that.

Try US Speaker, they are out of Freehold NJ. They stock the Faital Pro 4FE32-8 and sell them individually, I was able to buy 3. The website is nothing fancy, but I thought the service was pretty good, shipped out right away, and fair pricing.

I'm going to assume your driving a Model 3 RWD built after 11/2022. You're using a USB hub attached to the USB port in the glovebox? If that's the case you have the same setup I have. I don't know of this is a solution for you, but I replaced the small module behind the 2 USB ports below the...

Great. That's pretty poor customer support. If you did all of the checks like they asked and no problem was found, would they send you a replacement? I'm really on the fence about these guys, Was about to pull the trigger, but something just isn't right. Especially the rear speaker install.