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The car determines everything it "sees" by applying an algorithm to it. Depending on the input, the output of that algorithm can vary. Different lighting, slight reflections here and there, maybe something in the background that it mixes up with a foreground object, those are all valid reasons...

Made in Berlin, i'd guess. These tether points are unique to the cars built there.

https://www.willtheyfit.com/ play around there a little, do some measuring on the car and you'll figure out if you can make it work or not. Like @BC_LR said, be aware of the load rating of the wheels, you don't want any of your cars parts to fail under load while going highway speeds...

No first hand experience with buying a former rental, But with the cars itself, since I used to work in a SeC back in Germany. Generally spoken, I'd steer clear from it unless you really really need to have the lowest price possible. Most renters are unexperienced with EVs and Tesla in...

True, apparently a leased car is not the same everywhere in the world. N some countries it’s more like a rental, some others refer to a loan (where the bank technically only gives you the money and you buy it yourself) as a lease.

The car doesn’t go to sleep when sentry is on, this has nothing to do with the hazards being on or not.

It’s not that they don’t want your money. You are not the owner of the car, therefore you have no rights to buy upgrades. As simple as that. Go and ask your lease company if they buy it for you. Edit: what if you give a family member driver access to the car, should he be allowed to buy...

That’s exactly what’s the reason for this.

there are no other lift points then the 4 official ones. You can buy special jack stands that can be lifted with the car and then have legs attached to them to remove the jack.

Spoiler alert: they won’t. Mine was showing wear around 6-7k km, did the same, got told these are a non-warranty. Ended up buying new ones from the shop.

No, and I wouldn’t try either. Use proper adapter plates or stick with 5x114.3.

Looks like 19 inch Aerodisc-Replicas from AliExpress

Exactly. The only indication then is the rear caliper looking different, but that’s only for the real nerds to notice. Other than the mentioned things, the trim of the LR ist exactly the same.

30mm all around. It just tucks under the fender when fully compressed, tried that on the hoist to see how big of a spacer is working.

I run 12mm per side in the front and 17mm per side in the rear and at least in the back it doesn’t look like there is much more room.

I used them, and left them on after, since I use the racks regularly. If you have PFF on anyways, you might don’t need/want them.

I can’t really say I have much experience with French Salesmen at all, but your description of your experience pretty much covers all the stereotypes and/or the little experience with French service personal i have.

But: you could probably hard wire them with a switch in the cabin, since the front fogs are not connected to the CAN, they just have 3 pins (ground / lead fog / lead signature lights)

Technically, you can install fog lights there, access should be quite easy through the wheel well, cables are there, just plug and play. The problem is the software, your car won’t recognize the fog lights and give you a switch. Tesla would need to change the configuration of the car, otherwise...

Damn, I take back what I said about my car being dirty. 😅

Used the first sunny day in weeks (if not months) for a trip up the coast, but damn this thing is need of a wash. 😟

I’ve driven both H&R and Eibach and found that’s there’s no huge difference in suspension feel that’s notabale to the average Joe Tesla owner. The Eibachs are the slightly more comfortable option of the two though. If you want to go for more comfort you should switch dampers too, for example...

The seats are technically retrofitable, but without ventilation.

Steering angle and therefore turning radius on AWD vs RWD are exactly the same. The entire suspension is the same, it’s just lacking the front motor and drive shafts.

What keeps you from mounting the camera of one of the already existing versions inside the glass? I’m honestly curious, but i‘m not familiar with the aftermarket cameras, hence the question..

Yeah, that’s why I said „be nice and ask“ since they’re not obligated to do so but might help you out if they want to.

There’s a flag in the config that needs to be set, so your car actually „knows“ what type of headlight it has. Since there’s no official retrofit, you can only try to be nice and ask your nearest service center for help. The openly available version of toolbox won‘t get you far here unfortunately.

I added some self adhesive Velcro tape to the back of my drivers seat floor mat to prevent sliding. Doesn’t move anywhere since then and is removable if needed.

You might wanna check this out on Reddit. Summary: Apparently you can retrofit it, but you need a separate aftermarket controller that basically copies the setting from the heated driver seat. So you can’t turn it on or off separately. The main issue is that there is no way to change the config...

My bad, I assumed you’d be talking about the hazards since that’s what the OP described. I don’t know what the indicators would do, but I assume they would stay on if not triggered by one of the factors that turn them off (steering wheel returns to straight or lane change completed), similar to...

They stay on forever (well until LV runs out actually) if not turned off via the button. Imaging having to stop on the highway, turning hazards on to make your car visible to others, leave the situation to safe distance and the car locks and turns the hazards off. Wouldn’t exactly be what you...

Omg, so much fuzz about hazards being left on. You got any idea, how often the hazards are on while the car is being prepared for transport or delivery inspection? That’s before it even got delivered. It’s a convenient way to let the next station now, that the car is ready. Do you also worry...

I’ve read some complaints about that lately, seems to be a problem with the latest update. Did you create a service request? Sometimes a remote diagnosis reveals errors, you wouldn’t be able to fix yourself. And even if not, it creates awareness on the side of Tesla, that multiple users...

If you ask me like that, then H&R, since I‘ve never heard of aspira before. But i guess any spacer that fits and comes from a proper company is fine.

How long / much did you drive after the rotation? Sometimes it takes a little (had cars that took about 25km, some much more or less) for the TPMS to correctly calibrate after a rotation or seasonal change. And did you check (or the guys at costco) the pressure with an actual gauge to see if it...

I’m 100% with you 😅

Either the module called VCRIGHT, which controlles the windows, or it’s wiring is faulty. Therefore you will need to create a service visit, that’s nothing you can fix yourself.

1. depends on the offset of the rim, but if it sticks too far out it’ll rub on the fender when fully loaded. 2. MYP is a little lower (about half an inch) than MYLR, that’s all. 3. mostly range and comfort are negatively affected 4. will probably work fine, again depending on the offset of the...

Carpet on the drivers side looks about right for me. That’s an area you normally don’t see so they don’t pay too much attention when assembling the car. Either way is fine I guess, it’s an air vent. Those wires are for the seat and not high voltage. You would recognize a high voltage cable when...

1. is the metal hook centered with the arrow? 2. does it move less then a few millimeters back and forth? If both are a „yes“ for your install, then you are good to go. If you’re still concerned, you can slowly tighten the bolts and check for weird sounds and movement. Some little funny sounds...

Dents don’t appear out of thin air buddy, but of course a passenger car is no tank, so even something as a misguided ball can cause a dent. Might wanna consider using the sentry mode if you experience damages frequently.

That’s exactly the case. Back at my old job, I had one keycard that I used as some kind of general key or backup key for our fleet of 6 Teslas.

yeah, should be fine. I mean, the cars weigh more or less the same. If you don't plan on towing massive trailers, there should be no problem.

I mean, they should be able to tell you the same. If you feel like it’s not working right, it’s worth having it checked though.

The Lumbar Support is a bag of Air thats inflated to create support. If you want less support, it just deflates. so its completely possible, that it doesnt make any sound while doing so.

Incase you want to run them on a MY, then be aware, that the rim width and offset on those two wheels are not identical. It's not going to make a big visual difference from the outside, but just so you know. Your tire is going to sit less stretched though. But its going to work. orange =...

I went for Eibachs since I have to use an underground parking ramp daily therefore I didn’t want to go too low (h&r). H&R are also known for some excessive settling over time, so the car can turn out even lower after a few thousand kilometers, which can become a problem with the authorities...

Doesn’t the car just display the name of your phone you gave it in its phones settings? Like any other Bluetooth device.