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I would tend to disagree. The fuel gauges and miles left on gas cars are not all that accurate from my experience. With precise current over time measurements, combined with idle readings, EVs will get there. Conversion losses and temperature can all be factured in.

I am sure the car measures the current going in and out, and should be able to make a fairly accurate SoC calculation based on that, combined we the last known resting SoC. No?

Degradation can be reduced, but Tesla won't be able to defy physics.

Yeah. I would also consider this to be a very serious issue. Hoping Tesla will look into this for @gaspi101 and fix it.

I found this post on Reddit. Looks like not all MY LR can get the acceleration boost, and Tesla explained it to this owner by saying the battery he has is at fault. Has anybody else heard about this? This is the kind of thing that can really upset some owners, I can sure see that.

Are you able to measure the voltage (better yet would be the current) when the heating pad is on, or only on the outlet while being idle? I wonder if that actually causes a droop. One way to do that is a kill-a-watt device, very helpful. Amazon.com Compare the current (power) that the pad draws...

Well put, I couldn't agree more!

Mine wipe once out of nowhere on a sunny day here and there. The when it starts raining lightly, they won't do anything until I am literally flying blind. Then, at some point, start wiping like I am in a downpour. They don't work for me, lol. A good manual workaround would be great!

Not really. As soon as you engage cruise, they go back to auto. Plus: the available manual speeds are not enough, and switching between them is a pain in the rear.

Lol. Good one! I am still in disbelief that Tesla cant get the wipers to work. The complete manual wipers on my first car, a 1996 VW Golf, were much less troublesome.

My comment was related to an individual's income, not the GEOID limitation. There is (or at least there was a couple years ago) a somehwat hidden income limit to being able to claim this credit.

He had 20 miles left at 0%? O didn't see that part in the OP.

I meant based on income, not location. At least that's what happened to me a couple years ago, I couldn't claim the credit. The location requirement is new, I think, and not what I was referring to.

The car charger rebate is tricky (form 8911). Most moderate to high income earners don't qualify.

Wow, I am overdoing it. Our Y is 8 month old now, and it was washed twice.

You are willing to pay for the subscription to do more testing? Your trial has expired, right? I have experienced similar symptoms during my myQ trial, only that in my case it worked 10-15% of the time and failed 85-90%, lol. (not really kidding though). I am sure in my case a poor cell...

It would be great if you could post a video! I would love to do the same!!! Thanks in advance!

Yes, my bad. It was all with the myq trial.

That looks great! And all you had to.was to remove the tub liner? Did you have to make any permanent modifications, or can you get it back to original without buying any parts?

Not too much of a difference according to this graph frequently posted by @AAKEE 50 degrees C is probably not very common for a long term storage temp, as that's 122 degrees F. Even 40C sound too high as an average assumption for most (=104 deg F), so I am mainly looking at the top lines in...

Ouch. I keep on saying "homelink", but was really referring to "MyQ". You are right.

Homelink does the auto open/close based on the GPS location of your car, and that isn't accurate down to inches. Now if you manually close the garage door using homelink (not automatically based on your location), then it will also close it from anywhere, no matter how close you are (even inside...

From what I have read here, 70, 80 or 90% isn't really much (if any) better than 100% for calendar aging. But if you need the charge for your everyday commute, then there isn't much you can do about it, except charging as late as possible (right before you leave, ideally). The real benefit seems...

The homelink module is basically another clicker that you install in your garage. Only difference is that it's not directly operated by your finger press, but through wifi.

I tried myq, but it was super flaky. Have it on my phone for the garage and the shop for years, and it works fine. As soon as I paired it with the Tesla, it started acting up. The only explanation I have is that cell coverage is flaky where I live, and that the car lost connection pulling away...

Also, I wouldn't mind seeing a few more pictures. How do the 245s look from a stance point of view? Can you see that they are slightly narrower?

Looking good! Thanks!!

I am 99.9% sure that the battery will drain, down to a roughly 3% "loss", then the car will top it back off. Then the cycle repeats.

Mine never ran low in years ...

No spotty wifi connection, it's very strong in my garage. I have the myq for years, never had to change a battery. Which battery are you referring to? The car may have low cell reception as I drive away from the house, that could maybe be the issue in my case.

I did the MyQ trial, and didn't extend it after it expired. The thing acted up like a 2 year old toddler. Sometimes it worked fine, but most of the time it would be in the "closing" state after leaving forever. It basically didn't realize that the door was closed. On at least two occasions, it...

Where exactly did you velcro it? I am looking for a good spot. Have a picture?

Make sure that the Tesla app isn't allowed to go into deep sleep.

When I hit start charging in the app, it always starts charging immediately, schedule or no schedule.

It will be interesting if they'll extend this to the LR version.

I just read in some German news that Tesla is removing the subwoofer for the MY base model, first in the U.S. & Canada. Tesla streicht gutes Soundsystem im Model Y (for those who understand German) They are saying that so far, there were 13 speakers, 1 subwoofer, 2 amps. Now that's supposed to...

Hard acceleration causes the current drawn from the battery to spike. Is there any potential harm to the battery when flooring the "gas" pedal with an SOC of say < 25% (or 20/15/10%)? Or will the BMS take care of this by limiting the current, and therefore the acceleration? It seems like that...

I think you are mixing up kW and kWh. Are you saying that charging is interrupted after 10 hours of charging (30kWh charge at a 3kW charger)? If this is at a public charger, then maybe the station cuts off after 10 hours?

Ouch! 😳

There is such a thing? How much are 10k points valued at?

You still won't get the same range potential if you need it. AWD for winter is another reason, as is power/acceleration (fun to drive).

I don't feel like it's all that obvious, with having experienced how Tesla operates. But hopefully I am totally wrong and you are right! 👍🏻

Do they list any criteria for when they consider a battery needing replacement? Or any limitations?

Did you have to ask for it, or did it just show up?

They will cover a $20k replacement of the HV battery on a 15 year old, 150k+ miles Tesla?

What number did you call?

I don't think that's true.

"The Order agreement you received when you buy the vehicle will be your proof. You can find this in your app under your profile." This is the response I got. Tesla has a grip on it, nothing to worry about. Lol. 😂 Both statements in this response are wrong, as far as I know.

Yeah, hopefully. I can wait. But I keep on reading here about people sending messages to "their advisor". It's a general question, unrelated to the tax doc. How do you contact "your advisor"?

Yeah, still wondering in general how to submit a question or start a conversation.