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Saw this on marketplace. After my 30min research I’m still confused. Will these fit on a M3? Thanks to everyone

For the newest and cars with bigger batteries from what I recall around 80 Soc the safe limit should be 1c so around 60kw for my car. 90Kw at 80soc should match a performance or 90D&P for older tesla. Possibly software? No way….

So I have the half of the first charge logged (don’t know why the second and the other half of the full charge not logged) the first one started at 40kw then went up to 70 very slowly due to cold weather up noth in Canada. Second charge jumped to 90KW and did drop to approx 60 instantly at...

Chevron Chargers Here in Canada chevron chargers has batteries in their chargers and one of the charger’s batteries was out of juice and charging very slow so I switched to another charger. And I have never seen this car charging at 93kw at 80soc that kinda worries me

If I start at 100% maybe not but the soc would be super low. Around 5% or lower barely making home.

That’s right. Mine dropped to 428km originally 438 after not charging to full five or six times in a row. But after one charge to 100 it goes back to 438 it’s just the bms trying to protect battery.

Yea I use over 90% of the battery every day. I try to dcfc before the battery hits the 30% mark. I’m guessing I should keep doing what I’m doing and schedule the charge to end just at the time before leaving and continue to charge 80 or 90 and charge full once in a while for cell balancing.

Yea you are reading it right. So basically change to 85 charge to 90 charge to 95 charge to 90 charge to 100 something like that.

Also I got pretty lucky with the car. When I first took delivery and took it to a supercharger it took 30 minutes just to calibrate I called Tesla when it was calibrating (cause it took like for ever) they told me that the battery has an extra 500w of capacity compared to other new cars😊

Took delivery of M3 RWD in October and I had a 2019 M3 SR+ previously. I know a lot of people has been talking about this. And for the average person driving 20k a year, charging to 100% on LFP is probably the best practice for cell balancing and BMS estimate. But my situation is a bit different...

I understand you. It’s like the same when you see ‘bad drivers’ it’s not they are all bad drivers， it’s just that we are human and human will make mistakes. By the way I was gonna fix these but my mom ****ed the other rims while parking lmao. I’m not gonna fix it entill she stops driving it. 😂

as long you don’t see structural damages. 99.99%of times your gonna be fine. Even if there was damage visible as long as the indent does not exceed 5mm you’re gonna be fine. If the indentation exceeds its best you bring it to Tesla and let them test the air tight seal of the battery pack. Hope...

I will get this and the lotto rn

I am on my way to get some life insurance lmao

Haha I’m still in the babe stage with is car🥰

Another incident today !!! This women just hit my car while backing up. I got off the car to see and damage. Nothing major so I just told her all good. And she just ****ing left. No a word. I’m so pissed.

Thanks, wow didn’t know you can get that from a potholes. That sounds like some big ass potholes.

Thanks man that is good to hear. Yesterday was a fuxxed day. Later on after driving off the curb. I took a right turn and hit a curb again while I was turning. The car was almost went flying and my head hit the window. surprisingly the rim didn’t crack, just some scrapes and dents. Dam Tesla has...

Kinda same thing happened to me don’t know if I should get it checkedout by Tesla. It don’t look deep.(drove it off a curb)

So I drove off my m3 off a curb yesterday and I felt the impact real hard. (No bounce from the suspension straight impact) I pulled over and found out I have scraped the battery pack on the front passenger side of the car. Does any one know if I should take the car to Tesla and get it checked...