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Exactly, I like the mirror to point to where I can see the rear wheels as I back into a parking spot close to the curb. However, when driving forward I want the mirrors to point farther away from the side of the car to minimize the size of the blind spots. The cameras are worse than the...

Maybe if you weren't going for the horn and kept both hands on the wheel you could have made it around the other car. I've been in the same situation going 55-60 down the road and just did the "moose test" maneuver to avoid the car instead of choosing to smash into it while honking.

They should bring back separate mirror position settings for drive and reverse. The current software that just moves the mirror down is pretty crappy for those of us who like to have the mirrors adjusted out while driving.

I had the CCS retrofit installed on my Jan '13 Model S last spring, before I sold it.

Sure, but it's basically free used right now and should be an easy way to add ~20 functions to the steering wheel. An interface circuit will be pretty cheap, even if I get a custom PCB made for it.

Did you try going into the audio settings and disabling "Active Road Noise Reduction" yet? That was causing the problem on my car. Disabling it made the noise stop immediately.

The indicator light is in fact a button, it just doesn't have any documented actions. If you're snooping the LIN bus, you'll see that it sends out a signal for that button when pressed. Using the information that it does send a signal out, I tested out whether it could be used to satisfy the...

It's not the same as pressing the scroll wheel, it's just super easy to click the scroll wheel button when you're trying to move it side-to-side. I'm convinced that this is the only reason why those buttons aren't used to select following distance. You can, however, use the left/right click to...

I realized today that you can also use the cruise control touch button (the one between the horn/camera button and the wiper button) to satisfy the input nag. Incidentally, I also discovered that if you press the horn button by mistake, it does not satisfy the input nag.

I wonder if we'll start to see aftermarket cruise control kits for sale to fill in for this. I'm already working on something for my own car, but there's absolutely no way I would want to take on the liability of selling it to someone else. I was just going to have it automatically override...

Agreed. I don't see much point of having the visualization so prominent outside of testing. The only thing I use it for is figuring out what the car sees around it that makes TACC decide to hit the brakes for no apparent reason. Now that I've figured out what to look for, I can preemptively...

It just uses a different Wh/mi efficiency number when converting battery % to miles. For example for my old P85 (with guesses for the ideal numbers since I didn't ever use ideal range): Useable battery capacity: 79.5 kWh Rated efficiency: 300 Wh/mi 100% rated range = 79500 / 300 = 265 mi Ideal...

Ideal range is higher than rated range. Rated range is what everyone references when talking about car range. No one uses ideal range numbers for anything.

The title still matches, (or at least a Michigan title would) it would just show the VIN and list the car as a Tesla Model S Station Wagon in any case. The trim level isn't on the title at all.

The behavior is different depending on your settings (this is from my experience with my 3-month FSD v11 trial, but I think it's still the same): - If you have Full Self Driving selected, the car will go through green lights without waiting for input from the driver, but will stop at red lights...

My 3-month FSD / EAP trial was on v11 FSD. This is exactly how it behaved for me the whole time with EAP and stop sign / stop light control enabled (Dec 12, 2023 - Mar 12, 2024).

The "big" motor has two issues that make it much less reliable than the smaller motor.

This was my experience with it, too. If I'm on a 55 mph road, I have to prompt it as soon as it sees the light or the car will start slowing down, but since I have to prompt it so far away, there was close to a 50% chance the light would change by the time I got to it. I was much happier just...

This just sounds like the normal behavior when using Autosteer with Stop Sign and Stop Light Control enabled. You have to acknowledge the light by tapping the accelerator and then the red stop bar changes to green and the car continues through without stopping. I tried all the different...

The other alternative is to just upgrade the cellular module, which was $200 several years ago. I did that first and then did the MCU2 upgrade a year or two later. The MCU2 upgrade is worth it, although if you're short on spare cash after spending the money on the car, just doing the cell...

When this happened on my P85, it was due to the "safety" washer behind the axle nut needing to be replaced. It separates into two pieces and then you can hear them moving around relative to each other (at least that's my guess as to what causes the noise). I ended up buying a pair of axle nut...

You can turn Roll mode on with The Commander from enhauto.com. I haven't tested whether it will remain on following a power cycle or not since I've now gotten used to the Hold mode and I was just playing around with the different options. The other interesting thing is that the Model S (and...

With so many yokes getting replaced for peeling, plus people swapping them out to get the center horn, there are a lot of super cheap ones available used. Has anyone else ever used one of these for touch buttons for another project? I just got one from eBay to see if I can disassemble it and...

This function doesn't work on my car ('23 Model S).

When I was on my trial, I found that you have to confirm that you want it to go through the green by tapping the accelerator quickly after it sees the green. You should then see the red stop line on the visualization change to green and the car will keep going through. The frustrating thing...

I can now confirm the UWB update solves one of my biggest annoyances: previously the door handles would rarely extend automatically when I walked into my dark garage from the house in the morning. That left me fumbling in the dark to press one while usually carrying a toddler or two and a...

Follow-up after a couple weeks of driving: The creaking sound disappeared a couple days after the service and I'm pretty sure the clunk/rattling noise from the front of the car disappeared at the same time. I still need to finish getting rid of the rear seat rattle to be sure though since it...

I just checked for updates and now I'm finally downloading 2024.8.7.

You can't activate it mid-intersection because it can't see the edge lines of the lane, but it will drive straight through an intersection if it's already engaged.

Were you looking at "Trip" or "Rated"? Were you parked in a garage at home for the first trip and outside before the return trip? A 4 mile trip is very short, so the difference is almost certainly due higher HVAC use for cabin heating on the return trip if the energy app didn't say anything...

I'm also stuck on 2024.8.4 and impatiently waiting for 2024.8.7. I was on the fence for upgrading to a new phone and used the new UWB key functionality as justification to myself to buy the new phone earlier this week.

That's what the energy app is for, assuming your car is new enough to have the updated version. On the newer cars it will tell you specifically which of the car's subsystems are using extra energy and how much. It will also break down how much extra is used due to ambient temperatures, wind...

I have a '23 Model S with round wheel. It is very easy to accidentally press the scroll wheel in while trying to click it side to side, which I assume is the reason they decided to not give an action to the sideways presses. It took a little bit of practice, but I can reliably click it...

Why would it be good to know the battery temperature? What specifically would you do differently as a driver if you know the battery temperature is say 10ºC vs 20ºC? Incidentally, if you really want to see this stuff, you can just buy an aftermarket device and monitor it on your phone. I have...

My preference has been to click the right scroll wheel left or right since those buttons don't do anything else on my car.

I'm pretty sure you're mixing up Goo Gone and Goof Off. Goof Off will definitely take off paint, but I've never heard anyone claim to have an issue with Goo Gone.

I drive on a lot of roads at 55-60mph with traffic lights every few miles. HW4 does not do better. It's bad enough that I'm working on some modifications to my own car to automatically override the uncommanded braking events. The really frustrating ones are braking hard for cars crossing my...

Do you have a link to research papers where these charts seem to come from? I'm interested in reading more details on the test results.

I just got back from having the service done. The tech wasn't aware of the service bulletin, so I was glad I put the number right in the service request. We did a quick drive around a bumpy loop they have and he confirmed the issue and proceeded to perform the procedure in the bulletin. He...

It's available on the Tesla Service Site website. You might need to "buy" a free one-year subscription to access it. I've attached the PDF file of the service bulletin.

They're doing the service tomorrow morning. I'll try to remember to post an update after driving it home, although it might have to wait until the following morning since it's the roads by my office that make the rattling most noticeable. Incidentally, they gave me an invoice of $195 to do the...

There's a service bulletin (SB-24-10-002) for a clunk / rattle noise in that area of the car due to loose bolts on the subframe. I'm having that done on Wednesday since I have a similar noise to what's described in the bulletin. I would just tighten the bolts myself, but the procedure has an...

I'm done with the trial as of a week ago and I'm certainly not going to pay money for FSD to get a video. This particular scenario was because roads in Michigan with no posted speed limit are 55 mph, but the car picks different speeds for different roads. The car thinks the one I drive on...

I'd add #4: don't want to be replacing bent wheels all the time from hitting potholes and #5: FSD drives like an asshole and I don't want to trigger road ragers with the repeated brake checks and driving 20 mph under the speed limit it keeps trying to do.

Another minor suggestion for something that's been bugging me is the transition from TACC / autopilot to manual control could be improved. If I cancel TACC by pressing the brake pedal, the car should apply full regen right away. Similarly, if I'm partially pressing the accelerator pedal and...

I've found that if I turn on my turn signal, change into a turn lane, and then pass a driveway that's before the intersection where I'm turning, the turn signal almost always cancels as I pass the driveway. It might be a similar situation.

I check the side mirror, then turn on the signal when I think it's clear, then check the camera to see if I missed anyone. Occasionally there will be a car in a blind spot two lanes over trying to change into the same spot I'm going for and the camera will catch it.

If you have an iPhone you can use the Shortcuts app to create an automation that sets your charge limit back to your normal limit automatically. I'm sure Android probably has similar functions available as well. I have mine set up to change the charge limit to my normal 55% every Sunday at...

Well, I certainly didn't readjust my I could reproducibly make the noise start and stop by turning the ANC on and off, so yes it did solve my problem. I certainly didn't readjust my liftgate stops multiple types without stopping the car. I suspect the root cause is one of two possibilities...

It's because several of us with properly adjusted liftgates have experienced the problem. Also, I wouldn't use his description of the noise to describe the sound a Helmholtz resonance makes.