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Did you ever get this resolved? I’m currently running into this exact issue. Traffic to Odin blocked and Toolbox Proxy will not open

You guys have been contemplating for 6 months. I cancelled my order. Sad that you took customers money for so long and basically got a free loan from them.

Hey there! Any chance you could post your service center invoice? Looking to do the same under warranty.

Any tips or tricks that made this easier for you? I’m doing this next weekend. Glad to hear it worked for you!

Any chance you would know if this media converter would work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/226000419941?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VegSIaONTpe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=uu6srhdcsu6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’m wondering if this would route would work on a Mac without running a VM. Might be worth a shot.

Is the proxy application required when running Toolbox over Chrome on a Mac as well?

Are you able to try the command referenced? The command is consistent with information I’ve seen about it. I’d love to try it with mine, I just don’t have toolbox access/my parts yet.

Can you post some screenshots of what the option in toolbox looks like? My headlights are arriving tomorrow and I’d love to try this DIY as well.

This is the way.

I cancelled my order today. They keep giving the runaround and keep saying “just a few more weeks”. I’m gonna go the EVoffer route. Yea it’ll cost more but I also think they look better as they are OEM.

I have this exact whistle and it drives me insane. Did you find a solution to it? I feel so validated listening to this video lol

Did you ever find a solution to this? I have a whistle coming from the rear, it’s somewhat faint but it drives me nuts.

Sorry, I meant to put that Alpharex is telling me June, while T Sportline is saying April is still a go. (Hard to believe). T Sportline messaged me saying “It's likely intentional that they're telling end users that. They prefer that we deal with the tesla customer.” I would even be open to...

I’m so torn on just getting the EVoffer lights. They’re playing so many games about these. T Sportline is saying via private chat that deliveries are still on track for this month, while EV offer is telling me June possibly. Disappointing.

Update: I put in a service center request and the warranty replacement is with a Global headlight unit from what it looks like. Part 1053571-00-G I have the old connection port, no Ethernet though. Any chance you think they’ll upgrade me to the Ethernet port while updating my config for the...

Wait… are you saying if we get a headlight replacement under warranty, they’ll swap to the newer headlights since the old ones are out of stock now? If so, that’s excellent news for me. One of my headlights flickers very faintly sometimes and I’ve been holding off getting it replaced because...

Update. I reached out to Alpharex themselves and asked once more, because their instagram comments contradicted their other email. Both Alpharex and Tsportline have gotten back to me stating that you CAN turn off the animation. That’s a win!

Some recommend taping the U hook that latches the rear seats in. This did not work for me. Tesla ended up replacing all of the rear seats for me which solved the issue.

Ok, last email screenshot. I reached out to Alpharex themselves and even shared that other wouldn’t order them due to the startup sequence and asked them if they could disable them. This was the response.

Update. T sport line responded after reaching out to Alpharex. Startup sequence is NOT able to be turned off.

I do wonder who’s right. I can see t-sportline saying “no” just as a CYA, I find it hard to image they would add to the description that you CAN disable it when you can’t. Strange.

here’s the response I got. I even sent them that part of the listing and they said no. What a great way to ruin a nice set of taillights. The animation is so tacky.

I just messaged them about the animation and it looks like there’s no way to remove the animation. What a bummer. I was ok waiting but the start up animation looks so tacky. Darn.

Did you figure out how to quiet this rattle? Have the same one.

This looks absolutely amazing and I’ve been considering ordering some, but this post made me realize how much work it is to get these in. Wow. My hat is off to you, I think that’s more than I’d be comfortable with. Great look!!

Update. Service center replaced both rear seat backs and the rattle/creak is completely gone. Feels like a brand new car, some other rattles disappeared as well. I’m so happy.

Update. SC heard the issue and said that the seats have been internally redesigned. Both rear seats are being replaced under warranty. Let’s see if that fixes it.

I’ll give that a shot. I’m gonna take it in for the service appointment and see if they can replace the seat back. I called and he said the technicians are familiar with certain noises coming from there in the S and they can confirm if it’s covered before they take it in. Fingers crossed. Not...

On the driveway it’s usually the worst, especially after the car has been sitting all night

Update: cloth and thick foam did not work. Creaking is gone when seat is unlatched. The sound sounds like it’s coming from about 2-4 inches to the left of the seat hook on the passenger side rear seat.

Haven’t tried it with the seat unlatched yet. Will try the cloth in a little bit and report back.

Yes to both. Rear passenger side is much worse than rear driver side. Creaking seems like it’s louder when it’s colder as well.

Yes, fully silent when seats are down. I’ve tried stuffing foam between the u bar, different types, and also wrapping the bar with different types of tape/felt with no solutions. Service quoted me $160 to looks at it since I’m outside of the 12 month “rattle period” which I think is a little...

Noise is coming from the rear seat area, both driver and passenger side. Sounds like it’s coming from inside the seats.

Really need some help with this. 2021 Model S Refresh. I have this insane rear seat creaking issue, and it drives me nuts. On every turn I hear it. I've tried taping the "U bar" with multiple types of tape and nothing has helped. I've looked through every forum and can't find an answer...