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You can take a look at these code descriptions: PARK_w001_S1_shortGround This alert indicates that there is likely a short to ground in the wiring to this sensor or the sensor is disconnected. PARK_w004_S2_shortGround This alert indicates there is likely a short to ground in the wiring to the...

Yes, up to this point I will say I have traced the 12v supply all the way up to the battery and all check out. I am looking to book an appointment with a shop 600km away from Toronto since Toronto does not have any EV shops to have them change the BMS board and contactors. I will update if it...

Just an update, I finally dropped the pack off the car and tested the connections of X035 and X036. I am indeed getting 12v at pin 5 for both (also tested pin 2) and the grounds are all good! At this point, I put the pack back into the car... I was going to take it a part to swap the...

Just a quick question, I have now ordered a used BMS board (will need to program with toolbox) and two used contactors. Just waiting for parts to arrive. Is there anything else I should look out for when I perform further Diagnostics on my car once the HV is dropped? This is what I plan to...

Okay understood thanks! Just an update, I tried to wiggle the cables back in and reset the bms signals now all of them show how they did before (maybe it didn't show when I removed the BMS ground?) Anyhow that's all good now, again getting 12V all the way up to X950. I checked continuity on...

Also another question, I removed the BMS 5A fuse to see what happens as expected all BMS codes don't show up (nothing reported from BMS as expected) BUT the GTW_W405_12VNOTSUPPORTED stays! Is this my issue? What exactly is this code?

I tired this before with everything connected and I am still getting more than 12v... Thanks for the diagram, the ground was exactly where you posted it under the carpet liner. I checked the ground and interestingly the person who assembled my car did a poor job, The rubber floor lining was...

So this time, I removed the back seat cushion to get access to the grommet that these wires lead to the LV cable, and to have access to X976 Pin 3 (Contactor Power Output). What I did was I back-probed Pin 3 from X976 to ground to see if I would get 12v. I did not, I was only getting 3.77V...

Is this located from the inside of the car under the rear seat or carpet? I can try to push it down just wanted to know how to access this. I want to try to push these LV rapid mate splitters in. Can I also access these under to car to push it in more? Also, just to confirm for sure it's the...

No it doesn't, it dips since the the DCDC converter is not supporting it (contactors don't turn on)

Makes sense, if it supplies the 12v with approx. 14v of continuous power then yes it should be enough to take over. This is why I am questioning could it simply be a bad DCDC converter? I copied a diagram above from the HV BMS to the DCDC, I am not sure if that is what signals it to enable...

So I guess next would be to take out the HV battery to really check if 12v is getting through all of the harnesses up to that point... That is a lot of work. Lets just say that there is sufficient 12v through the harness, could it be a defective BMS board inside the HV battery? Can it be the...

It looks like "timothypop" had practically the same codes as me... including w062 and w063, All he did was change the 12v and the 12v pyro and it worked...

Thanks for the input. That makes perfect sense. I am also confirming that there is 12V on X950 pin 6 (RED WIRE) and Pin 7 as well. Is there any way I can confirm continuity from X950 (Pin 6 & 7) up to X036 and X035 with out getting to the those two plugs? Such as bridging Pin 6 (male and...

Alright I tested the battery. Brought out my Jeep, hooked up the booster cable and got the voltage with acc rail on to 13.1V. The car is still reporting "low voltage" for both the DI and the Contactors. Only difference again, the DI signals through CAN Viewer do not show anything at all, whereas...

Yes the only thing that the DI reported was the cruise control toggle on/off. Everything else, it did not show a status for. I would suspect there isn't 12v to going to the DI control unit. I wish I had Toolbox subscription to check the DI ECU, but not worth paying another $260 for a day 😅. As...

I didn't get anything for BMS contactor voltage but the contactors do show open. I am getting DI_U014_NOT_OK_TO_START_DRIVE code which states 12v supply is not enough. I think I should start diagnosing the 12v supply to the DI?

This time again I charged my 12v fully. After pressing the brakes the voltage drops to 12.1v. That should be sufficient.Fully charged my battery shows 12.9v on the multimeter. I also checked practically all of the signals on the CAN VIEWER and noticed one thing. The "DI" signals do not report...

I am also getting 12v on F53. How about F76? Also using CAN VIEWER here are some signals for the 12v battery and the DCDC. First is before pressing the brakes, after it's when pressing brakes.

I looked at the wiring diagram online, it looks like its actually on the inside of the car by the drivers side? Does that seem correct? Thanks!

I can't seem to find this connector. I checked everywhere on the LH Side rocker panel area. I took pictures of all the major connections. I think it's the one under the air compressor?

Awesome, thanks for the diagram. I will check this tomorrow and report back!

Thanks for the input! I checked the voltage between F29 and the battery ground and I can confirm there is 12.7V. So F29 is good. Also double checked this fuse and its good just to be sure. I then checked to see if I have 12V from the first responders loop and here are my results. Only the...

One thing I did note is that there wasn't continuity across from the two pins from F93, which is the resistor that should measure 2.5ohms. This is where that "airbag" like clip plugs into the Pyrofuse. Sounds like a defective 12v Pyrofuse, I will get a replacement and try this out. There was...

Also, when you mean bridge pyro manually did you mean to bypass this Fuse with direct contact? Also if I'm not getting 12v from F93, ther certainly I won't get 12v on F29. I am just lost how I can get continuity on the Pyrofuse but not have the 12V.

Sorry for the confusion, I got the fuse number mixed. F93 (Contactor Power Cutoff (Pyrotechnic)) which is the 12v Pyro Fuse has continuity but no 12v across from it. This is what I find extremely strange... Shouldn't there be 12v across this Fuse? I also check F92 (Contactor Power) and that...

I finally put everything back together since I took apart the DCDC converter. I checked the voltage across from F29 and surprise! There is absolutely no voltage across from F29! It's really strange that there still is continuity across it but no voltage reading. I will start with this and...

Sorry 3rd post... but before I forget. Why would my DCDC ECU not restart successfully and give errors via Toolbox? Does it rely on the HVIL for power (no right) ... part of me thinks the DCDC is faulty but the fuses say otherwise (all good). BMS ECU on other hand works.

Also, I read a post from another user that had identical codes as me. They changed the 12v Pyro fuse as well that was the difference and it worked for them. If the 12v pyro fuse blew technically the car wounldt even start right? I did a continuity on mine and it works...

Hmmm, okay thanks for the input. Almost at the point where I feel like taking it to the SC for diagnosis... Tried everything I could. Only thing I'm waiting on is for my HV fuse to come in, and will give that a try. A few other things I wanted to see was what voltage (for 12v) the ECU is...

I checked all the fuses that would connect that 12v supply to the contactor. All were good. Fireman's loop was also good. Yes, the car lost the 12v battery supply while driving since it was really low when I boosted it to drive. Those crash codes should have cleared with all of the tests I...

Right, the issue is the BMS is thinking that there isn't enough voltage 12V to clear the set conditions, which would close the HV contactors. I checked to see if there is a resistance reading from the HV +/- and the LV +/-. Every closed loop (none shorted) circuit should technically show some...

Are you measuring the resistance from each harness of the HV components? I have a similar issue where my DCDC converter is not providing power to the 12v (no HV power from battery I do not hear the contactors go on likey due to the DCDC converter).

So here is what I tried so far in addition to everything else I mentioned above in the thread: - I took out the DCDC converter, opened it up again (I did this before to replace the AC fuse) and check ALL four fuses. Of course I was able to verify the 3 fuses without taking it apart (AC, PTC and...

I think it mean it's "disconnected" in the open position.

I wanted to add the BMS info from Toolbox. Please see above for description.

Appreciate the support. BMS CAN Gateway communication test passed with Toolbox. So there is communication with the car. I tried to reset the codes and they would just come back. Please see the attached images. As mentioned about the contactors not clicking, there isn't even a single click and...

I checked continuity on the battery heater side that passed. I didn't take out the DCDC converter to check that fuse. Any way to check without taking out the DCDC? I got toolbox 3 and ran a whole bunch of tests including forcing the HVIL circuit on which all failed. No clicking of the...

These are some pictures I soucred from the service manual, the two 40A fuses are for the AC compressor and the PYC Heater. The lower 20A fuse is for the Battery Heater. What is the other top 20A fuse for? Is that for the 12v +LV supply to the battery?

I checked, I could not here any clicks from the back (one click from the front, but that's likey the relays opening and closing). My is a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+. 1st gen. I opened up the DCDC converter before to replace the AC fuse. I qas hoping to never have to open it up again. Is there a...

I tried to but I am assuming you cannot attach a video here. The coolant pumps I believe are also LV? Thanks again for your input on everything, it's greatly appreciated! My next question was how do I go about testing the DCDC converter? I know I can do a continuity test for the PTC, AC...

To answer your question I do not get 12.5v without the DCDC converter running, it dropped to about 11.81V (even with the trickle charger connected running at 7.5A). There was no spike in voltage from the +LV DCDC terminal to the negative prior to opening door. I can't tell if I can hear the...

So far I put the multimeter from the positive terminal from the DCDC converter and the negative terminal from the battery before I entered the car and when starting. Voltage basically just dropped below 12v and did not see any surge up to 14v... I checked the continuity from the positive LV 12V...

Sounds good I will check the voltage before start and after. When I press the brakes the car does start, Headlights go on, brake makes

Sounds good I will check the voltage before start and after. When I press the brakes the car does start, Headlights go on, brake makes noise, compressor runs for air suspension, it sounds like the coolant pumps run initially, interior fan runs too (temp control does not seem to work), as soon...

I just find it odd that I got these issues after buying the new OEM Tesla 12v battery. Even though the old one dies out, it worked when it was trickle charged. Things I did so far for Diagnostics are: - checked continuity on all of the battery fuses (on top of battery) including the 12v pyro...

To add, here are the details of those "crash codes": it stated contactor power dropped while in drive.

Yes I was not in a crash. The 12v battery kept dying so I trickle charged it and drove. One day I had to bring a spare battery to boost it and then drove it home. It gave a bunch of warnings due to the low voltage battery being weak including the regen being disabled. Any way to check HV pyro...

I really need your help. I have the same issue. My 12v battery started draining. I have a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+, I figured the battery was probably original. I was able to trickle charge that battery and still drive until it drains again. I decided to buy a brand new one from Tesla (Grey top...