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Zo kan het ook: https://evetesla.com/store/ols/products/tesla-model-s-full-led-conversion-emulator-to-old-hid

For M3 you need to go to service mode and clear offset and offset drive test think MS is the same.

@Firehuntah

Are you referring to harness 1016009-00-E?

Can't you see which door handle version it is in service mode?

2012-2016 is a valveblock with 6 connections and a 2016+ is one with 7 connections. Seems that Arnott sells them both For Model S with EAS 2013-2016.4 there are no different variations of this component, it's just a solenoid valve block with some actuators and a build in pressure sensor...

Yes correct but this will only work with MCU1

Try removing the 2 connectors, change wheel size 19'/21' in MCU this will force deep reset and please share service mode errors after that Edit, if you have MCU2 that won't work...You could try 12V and fireman's loop

Sept 2019, got them replaced all 4 last year under the 4y warranty

For me the chrome was coming loose from the handle preventing it to go flush with the car

Remove plastic inner frunk covers and then you will see the steering rack D008 is talking about shutdown due to high current so guess that error will be gone when those 2 connectors are removed. Not sure if that can trigger f071 so let us know which faults remains

Contactors will not engage so 12V isn't being supported at this moment and therefore you can't go into D and car is also preventing the update because of this all. Can you try removing both connectors from steering rack then reboot and try again?

Gezocht, CCS combo 2 adapter. De kans is klein maar mocht iemand er nog eentje hebben liggen hoor ik het graag

I would love to see an internal wiring diagram from the HV battery internals but I think you need to trace the 12V and if it goes to BMS yes it could be faulty. It's not something that goes bad often. The fault literally says lost contactor power while driving and will be gone when the issue is...

There's a hidden compartment below the first row of fuses see F83

Maybe you get more reactions in the Model 3 subforum. Think your HVIL output voltage is also kind of high, I added screenshot of an healthy HVIL. After DI rear in your print screen shows red, what happens with HVIL voltage when you pull the low voltage DI rear connector?

No positive power on positive jump post is a blown fuse which you can find above the 12V battery. Like already said maybe the emmc inside MCU is busted, if you don't want to involve Tesla you can remove MCU and bring it to someone who can replace emmc chip. Most of the time they can do some...

Strange, when you logout and go to steering rack can you please share the link you are using? It must be something that is different...

I can't find the blue "S" you are referring to. Maybe you are using an corporate version of EPC which has this special function or am I just missing this one?

Did you checked the 2 year old pump on a known good 12V source?

Diagnostic connector https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/pin-out-for-hsd-ethernet-fakra-cable-2017-ms-mcu1-fsd-2020-48.253641/

Did you broke that HVIL pin in HV connector yourself? Makes me wondering which faults where present before and after you start working on the car. CP_w009: BMS_f036 Try Google or see attached document but big chance the issue is in the connector you where holding.

Did they show you where the the brake line went bad? Could you see under the car where the brake fluid came from?

Did you already tried to re-seat connectors X035 X036 with pack still in the car? Second thing I would do is indeed remove pack and inspect/measure X035 X036 for contactor power and grounds. If all is good (also no moisture or oxidation) proceed to open pack if you can find something but keep...

When I zoom in on your picture there is a connector partnumber partly visible so maybe you can Google that otherwise there are sites that sell them too https://tulayswirewerks.com/product/bosch-ibooster-gen-1-universal-wire-harness/

Heb je MCU 1 of 2?

If there is no HV available due to errors that prevents closing contactors then there is definitely no 12V support. Error W405 will not go away untill HV is restored. Could be BMS also uses ground from battery casing as a sort of reductant ground but I don't know for sure

Think so yes, measuring in X035 X036, check connectors, check ground or maybe BMS Contactor output in wiring diagram is for FC contactors which are for fast charging and are in rear junction box so not internally in the battery pack. Internal battery pack (so after X035 and X036) is not in...

Agreed but if BMS can't turn on contactors and proper 12V is provided it could also be a bad ground. With your toolbox session BMS says it doesn't have enough input power to create a voltage for HVIL and suggest to check input voltage from first responder loop. BMS_w062, BMS_w033, BMS_f062...

Well, normally you can just drive with a bad 12V battery. In fact when contactors are closed and you pull 12V battery it will stay on and keep functioning. Normally DCDC has more then enough power to keep the car alive Did you already checked ground point for BMS?

To my understanding U014 is just a standard error that always pops up when there is no 12V support due to a lack of a working DC/DC For example, if DC/DC would work and contactors would close and you should still have this error then I would look further into this error, otherwise not. (It's...

So your PTC fuse was not blown? Did both heaters have the same 'H' revision? I got one PTC with intermittent heat: 1059 989 1164 843 751 764 used other one which I think is good but not tested it yet: 1103 968 1070 947 926 838 (Both H revisions)

Is it a plug with some resistor in it or just a dust cap?

So you have 12V on X950 pin 6? Think you need to check X035 pin 5 and X036 pin 5 but not sure if that's reachable. Maybe connector to BMS isn't seated properly. Can you check CAN signals for something like 'BMS contactor voltage'?

Did you used a OEM paddle gear? Did you compared both paddle gears before installing? Is the new one shorter? Did you switched the plastic rings inside the Paddle gear over to the new one? Could the metal bracket from microswitch bent a little by the broken paddle gear?

There must be pin assignment on the fireman's loop connector (X535) also wire needs to be red according to diagram. Pin 2 is power for BMS Pin 1 is power for RCM but think you need to press the brake for that to be live but that is not your issue so I would just leave that. Next step would...

First connect battery negative and firemans loop so car gets live and measure between positive and negative of 12V battery, you should get 12V. Then measure on fuse F29 and place other wire against negative of battery, If you get 12V (between ground and F29 terminals) the circuit is good...

That's unusual, did you measure continuity of the Pyrofuse dismounted from fusebox? Do you have 12V on pyrofuse terminal? You can bridge pyro manually to check if 12V reaches F29 and error goes away.

If 12V pyro is activated you don't have 12V on fuse F29 which supplies BMS which supplies the contactors (see screenshot I shared, otherwise check wiring diagram how pyrofuse works). What I found interesting is that this fault isn't disappearing on it's own when a charged 12V battery is...

Maybe you can check if 12V power reaches BMS contactors, maybe there is a bad connection to contactors. (Bad wire near fireman's loop?) It seems that while driving 12V was lost from contactor feed therefore car reported crash error?

Heb je hetzelfde sluipverbruik ook als je de auto een keer tot bijv. 70% laadt?

Dat doen ze enkel om het gekraak bij lastwisseling te voorkomen.

De nieuwe generatie pyrofuse voor MS/MX (t/m raven) heeft geen batterijen meer maar heeft een speciale chip welke zo weinig stroom verbruikt dat hij kan functioneren op de spanningsval van de shunt in de pyrofuse. Bij 12 min. M3/MY en MS/MX refresh hebben dit systeem niet meer en worden...

Aan de PTC heater van een TM3 gaan verschillende dingen kapot, je ziet dan ook verschillende klachten wanneer ze kapot gaan. (In een aantal gevallen werkt hij soms wel/soms niet, helemaal niet meer of in andere gevallen dat de auto zelfs niet meer rijdbaar is) Ik heb nu een aantal PTC's...

Maybe you can pull out an rear parking sensor and check partnr? Rear outer sensor must be reachable without pulling off rear bumper. Otherwise ask SeC for correct partnrs for front bumper

Good question because normally this code comes with another code why 12V isn't supported (also if SoC is to low) Did you tried changing wheel size 19'->21' to force a deep reset? Assuming it has an old MCU. After that you still have same code?

BMS_f149_SW_precharge_too_short The Battery Management System (BMS) detected that the length of time it took the vehicle to precharge was too short. During the precharge sequence when the BMS is closing the contactors, the time it takes to reach target precharge voltage is too short. If the DC...

Like @brainhouston was saying I also would take care of the charger issue first, if chargers aren't working correctly the chargeport will not work properly. I guess change config to single charger+ remove it and fix hvil or swap slave with a known good one would be my best guess

My biggest bet would still be to use a known good left front door handle module. Since both left door handles are on same linbus they have to have send out another adres because otherwise door module cannot know which is which

Did you checked service mode for hidden error codes?