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So thinking this thru, if I added the shims , pushing the camber arms out by 6mm, thus moving the mounting point if the link out as well, it will have the effect of shortening the oem link. Shortening the link raises the car, extending the link lowers the car. So it makes sense why I now have...

When you dial the in2itive link to -6 , is that extending the link or shortening it?

I did , put one spare front wheel on my rear tire that got a nail. No issues

When parked on a level surface is everyone’s suspension height the same on the display? I never check prior to the shims but my rear are higher than the front values which I suspect is due to the shims affecting the position of the lowering link

Although the number of flats you have seems high, Teslas typically do get more flats as with a lot of other heavy EVs. The battery is heavy making them more prone to puncturing thru vs a super light ICE car. Also if you have stock suspension and drive in low , which is the default, you will...

It looks like it…. Not sure if its just placebo or not but i do noticed the rear every so slightly higher due to the change in the position of where the link mount to on the camber arm and since he has the lower link, he can dial some of that back out as needed to level it out

Yeah i think the shims helped the TOE, prior to the shims it was probably worse based on the tire wear i see

One thing i do notice is the suspension seem like it has raise the rear since the shims push the camber arms out and this also pushing the level sensor

This might be easier than typing it out

Agreed with TOE being the really culprit. After the shim install but before alignment Pre alignment TOE FRONT -0.22 and +0.33. TOE REAR was 0.72 and 0.59 Post alignment TOE FRONT 0 and 0 , TOE REAR 0.11 and 0.11 Adding shims should add more TOE right? Or am I thinking of it in the opposite...

Got my alignment today done after adding the RED Shims, so 6mm thick, and camber in the front in low is -1.06 and rear is -1.25. Was expecting to be under -1 degree with the red 6mm shims. Prior to the Toe adjustment it was -1 degree in the rear. Since I didnt do a pre install shim alignment...

Buy from Amazon and send them back the defective kit

Hansshow is typically a lot cheaper with discounts or during blackfriday… I think I paid around $350. Newer versions are water resistant control box which I think cut down on a lot of previous issues. CS I hear is non existent , so if you are good at trouble shooting go for it, if not pony up...

I believe the one in my X is water proof, it’s the Latest version and that should be one of the improvements they made. From the website “Our current version is waterproof”

My model 3 started doing something weird today, when it opens, at the apex, it think it hits something and starts to auto close. Wonder if the struts is failing…

no water damage, just a loose power connection

Tired this today and didn’t work for me, I was able to pull the front edge up from touching the center spline it ever time I try to tighten it drops , for the rear when I max out the play it still pinches. Gave up and just put it all back together. One weird thing I noticed was after I was...

Fixed it today, turned out to be my power cable came loose, once I reseated it the red LED came back on, mine was off.

Same thing with mine on my 2022 X. Was washing the car this weekend and tried to open the frunk, and the power struts won’t lift or close. It still unlatches to operate manually. I probably only used it less than 10 times since install before it failed. Will dig into it this weekend

was the dealer offering the same price if the car was stock? Crazy good deal for all the MPP goodies, FSD , and low miles

I need to use the 201 to work with my Marantec/Linear setup, so I cancelled the subscription since it doesn’t work with my setup if I ever upgrade the garage opener I may reconsider , but till then homelink works. Doubt tesla or myQ would ever fix the 201 bug

I have the older myQ hub as well, and the newer hub doesn’t work with my setup. Another tread had some excuse that Tesla said it’s an issue with the security protocols and the older myQ hub. I call bs on that since it clearly opens the garage but doesn’t close it. Opening is more of a...

always had the vibration on the beginning of drive but today it was vibrating after a 15 mile drive from Glendale to Pasadena . Had to put the car in park and back in drive and it stopped

When the door opens to a small gap, does the ice breaker extend to push the door out? If so then I have solved this issue on my previous Raven X by adjusting the window alignment. Tesla couldn’t figure it out and replaced the latch and door motor unit…still not solved, so I gave up letting...

So when you had yours replaced, you had all the branches outside of the just the trunk harness replaced as well from the beginning of the C Pillar to the trunk panel?

Make sure you got PPF installed before you get work done there, buddy of mine got his air suspension done there and had scuffs all over his bumper

Adjust the driver side up or down buy twisting the rubber stopper to help with alignment, if it is aligned already , then not much more you can do. The model X front end has a lot of shims and spacer used to align so the fit an vary

Should reconnect it, should be fine now, the seal pushed it out and activated the safety , then the latch got out of sync, once reset , you should be fine now esp with the seal fitted properly

As rob says they will fit

Struts looks fine since you can open and close them manually, look like the latch is in the close position so it’s too low for the trunk latch to reach? Have you tried disconnecting the power to reset ?

Check the rubber hood stoppers , there is one on each side

Funny you should ask , I have a marantec but I added a linear Megacode receiver to it so it can talk to MyQ so in effect I have a linear garage opener… That was compatible at the time , but I see what you see now on their website as being not compatible now….but mine still works fine on my phone

Just noticed the same issue on my car as well, looks like I will need to wait for the harness recall, When I try to schedule it , it says I’ll be notified when parts are available? glad I found this post

Yup tried both set location while parked inside the garage and forget location. Neither works so far

No option to disable the beep with the myQ hub unless you disconnect the speakers. Others with built in myQ say it doesn’t beep ?? Not sure , just what I have read here. Manual close or auto close doesn’t work for me like it has for others.

My dash rattles with the screen in any orientation, still trying to isolate it, any How too on taking apart the dash pad or the lock panels under the steering wheel?

I have the trial and the status works , opening works, closing doesn’t work. Won’t be keeping it after the 30 day trial ends , useless if it won’t close. I have the hub with the door sensor. Works on my phone for years no issues. Another member has the same issue as well

Wonder if that’s the issue? Odd that it works totally fine with the phone app though. So that’s 2 of us with the MyQ add on Hub that can’t close the garage door , only opens

Do you have the myQ built in or the add on hub like mine?

I used a 90 degree pick tool to pop it open

I tired that the other day and was still unavailable, gave a message about it conflicting with homelink but went ahead with it and it was still unavailable for closing

tired again today and unlinked and relinked it still same issue, works fine thru my iPhone myQ app not sure why it says unavailable as soon as it opens I have the myQ hub with the door sensor attached to my non connected garage door. So wonder if that is the issue VS those with lift master...

I tried it with the 30 day free trial, and it works to open the garage but when I go to close it, it says access unavailable and it doesn’t work to close the garage

Tried it today, myQ opens the garage but won’t close it , gives an “access unavailable “ message once the garage door is open Had to close it with Homelink , so either I have a setting that is off somewhere or there is a bug

Can also use a pick tool and just pop the whole metal clip off , then wiggle the hood and strut till it pops off. Once off pop the metal clip back on off the car on the work bench. That way you don’t have to coordinate the tool and pulling back the metal clip and pulling the strut all at the...

Installed the hansshow this weekend and got it running in 45 min with basic tools, spent 4 hours on cable management the next day tho…

Rattle not coming from scroll wheel, gonna dig into the under side area and see what else it could be

since the front of both the long range and the plaid are the same and same AC compressor, but the Long range doesn’t have this issue, can we rule those out?

I’ll check again tomorrow, I do hear a rattle when I tap the airbag and the lower console

I have an annoying rattle under the steering yoke panel , any one know how to take that apart?