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Fair enough, I stand corrected.

Safe, yes. I'm not an electrician by trade, but I'd suspect that individual conductors going into the HPWC is on the hairy edge of legit. I understand the cable being clamped by the box(but on a side note I really hate that type of 'clamp', IMHO it doesn't really work and is easy to make fail)...

Looks fine, I wouldn't have bothered to get the white wire into the HPWC at all. Technically there's supposed to be a cable clamp instead of the conduit terminator in the back of the HPWC(unless you are using conduit to get to it), but you are also supposed to run the cable(not individual...

It depends on the ambient temperature around the breaker and what power the neighboring breakers are taking. There's certainly no guarantee that a 50 amp breaker will or will not trip with a 48 amp load, and you can't go bitchin to the NEC or Square-D if it does(or doesn't!)

No, it comes out of the box set for a 60 amp breaker. You NEED to go set it up following the instructions included with the HPWC. If you plug it into a performance model 3 right now, it'll happily try to take 48 amps. If its 48 amps on #6awg, the breaker is unlikely to trip and your house is...

Its battery temperature related, and you have probably only just started noticing it.

Tesla “Chill Mode”: 6 Typical Questions (Explained) | Motor & Wheels suggests around 7 seconds for a 0-60 in chill mode. Its plenty for normal driving. At the same time, a 100hp car is also plenty for normal driving, but even slower. Its not hard to toggle(open driving menu, press 'standard' or...

I've never used it, but I'd wager that mule tape won't deal with wire staples all that well and 6 gauge NMB doesn't bend all that well even when you have your hands on it.

I think this question has been asked and answered before in this very thread. There should be no problem going directly to the terminals, but don't make the wires any shorter than they are. Leave whatever excess there is(or you can get) in the base of the HPWC. I'm pretty sure the intent of that...

Drilling a hole in the faceplate may not be approved. I betcha someone makes a prebuilt for that. That whip doodad is 6 feet long, unless it can be cut down to something like a foot, it's gonna look ridiculous. Not a big fan of wire nuts for wires this big, but its probably okay. Get enough...

Ground wire for #6 conductors actually only needs to be #10, MUCH smaller than #6.

Your picture with the red star is clearly not of the same box as the picture you started with. Indeed, thanks to google image search, I've found you asked basically all the same questions almost exactly a year ago in Gen 3 Wall Connector Installation Advice and we already answered them in...

If you truly stomp on it it is still MUCH slower. Like decent Honda Accord slower.

You should really get an electrician. You have no hope whatsoever of following the instructions regarding routing given the wire you have available, you need something north of a FOOT of wiring inside the base. NMB wiring is a sheath enclosing individual insulated(black, red, white) and bare...

The bottom screws won't have any affect on that play(at the top). Removing the faceplate and adding a layer or two of tape(probably electrical tape) to the tangs that engage the top of the faceplate should fix it.

240 at 90% would be 266 at 100% (240/0.9) That's 14% degradation. Worse than average, but less than half what you need before Tesla will do anything. Maybe describe your mileage and charge habits.

Not clear why the last comment garnered a 'dislike' from @Resist . I kinda hate chill mode, and have enough control over my right foot to have effective-chill mode when I want it, whilst also having gobs of acceleration when I >need<it. Note the latter is seldom needed, but I'd feel like such a...

Not if you don't use the extra acceleration afforded by 'standard'. Even if you do, the difference should be pretty small.

Gen3 HPWC disassembly, with overheating issues explained! shows that its not supposed to be sealed or water tight. I've checked the two Gen3's I have in stock, and both have a little faceplate play. One is somewhat worse than the other.

You should easily be able to tell if your solar system has enough excess capacity to charge your car. My impression is that it will NOT. 300km is 186 miles. That 186 miles you want to recharge will be 186 times 333 wh/mi(roughly, after all vampire losses and such), or 62kwh. Does your current...

Nothing to worry about.

Do you have (or have you ever had) any third party apps on your phone that might be constantly/repeatedly waking up your car remotely?

I'm surprised it moves that much, but you probably shouldn't worry about it. There's another layer of plastic/seal under there that makes the innards >almost< watertight. If it really bothers you, you could probably fix it by taking the HPWC body off the wall and unscrewing the faceplate(two...

Any error messages? Is the credit card associated with the account in good standing and unexpired?

Just FYI, this is usually one of the things you figure out BEFORE you drive home with your new EV. No, you can't just add a new 6-20 outlet to that circuit. All of the available power is going to the hot water heater. Even if it wasn't, EV circuits must be dedicated to only charging the EV, not...

That doesn't sound very 'pure sinewavy' to me. A different charger(actually connector) won't fix this issue, but a better inverter should.

Yes, downhill with a tailwind :)

I'm just trying to get OP's UMC to work, not to keep him/her from getting electrocuted :)

But does the car/charger even know what 'ground' is? All it sees is three wires, and with luck the middle one is a steady midpoint of the other two. Even in a split phase 240 system the ground may not be absolutely perfect(hopefully it is). In theory, the transformer referenced would provide a...

If its on the short wall, you won't even know there are lights. If its on the long wall and the lights bother you, you can stick some white duct tape over them. It looks like the head of your bed will be mostly blocked by the short wall anyway. If you really want, its not difficult to...

Please do a search.

To add to the 'automotive screens cost more' comment. Think of the screen's living conditions. It's not like your laptop. It lives (and must reasonably function) in temperatures from -30F to +100F, and may sit(unused) at 150F or more. Its also a touchscreen, and must be bright enough to be seen...

plugshare.com is your friend. Mohegan Sun - Valet Parking | Montville, CT | EV Station Apparently there are five 16kw tesla destination chargers accessible only to valet parking, and you need to ask the valet to plug in for you. Note that I highly doubt they are really 16kw chargers, probably...

It includes a J1772/NACS adapter, which would be $50 all by itself at Tesla. Notably, I'm seeing a price of $99 if I search for "Tera Electric Vehicle Charger", but if I then sort by price I see the same item for $89 and the $99 version disappears.

Make sure you set that 50A breaker setting IN THE HPWC, and not just select 40A in the tesla app. The manual is just giving specs for the 60/48A charging case, and doing a pretty poor job of it at that.

A 240V circuit would be fine and easy/cheap to install. 20A would definitely work, although I'd want to make sure the 120V loads were on different legs(than each other). Even 30A would be okay, until you break out the table saw, leaf blower or garage heater. TBH, a garage heater on the 120V leg...

So basically you need to install nothing at all. Plug your UMC into a 120V/15A outlet and you'll be good(4-5mi/hr). If you have a 120/20A outlet and the UMC adapter for it its even better.

There's basically zero chance of nuisance trips with a few (LED) lights, a battery charger or two and a garage door opener in the garage in addition to an EVSE set to a 30 amp breaker(drawing 24 amps continuously). The GDO is an extremely small load that runs for 20 seconds, while the LEDs and...

83% to 47% is 36%. 75 miles divided by 0.36 is 208 miles. It's most likely stopping you (very) early because of a dearth of superchargers between your first and second stop. If you start with more like 95-100% and can therefore go further you might get an entirely different routing. Try...

BTW, you are technically supposed to have red tape(or maybe a red sharpie to turn the last few inches red would be okay?) within six inches of each end of the white wire going out of the box to say "This isn't really neutral".

Well, its sorta free... you just need to stand there and plug/unplug repeatedly until you are done charging!

Driving should be fine, for months. Are you handy? Its certainly possible to do at home. I haven't done it, but wouldn't hesitate.

Its just a defective(or maybe not yet commissioned) charger.

There is a >little< precedent to cover odometer error with a longer warranty: https://www.businessfleet.com/44631/honda-settles-in-class-action-lawsuit-over-inaccurate-odometers Just need to get a pattern and class action suit.

Sure, I was just clarifying that if the battery is NOT preheated idle fees should not apply.

The period while the supercharger is supplying power to heat the battery should NOT be incurring idle fees.

I think it is a nonstarter to have a liquid-extended cord. Rather, they'd either just install a longer cord with liquid cooling(and probably larger conductors). An option MIGHT be to install a little logic in the extension to say "I can pass no more than N kilowatts" and intercept/override any...

Get over the minutiae of charge level! Would you notice or care if your gasoline powered car had 3% more or less gasoline in the tank? Fun fact, gasoline expands and contracts with temperature too! If I did my math right, gasoline takes 2.85% more volume as it goes from 0C(32F) to 30C(86F).

Unless they've changed it, the Tesla UMC total length is about 18 feet IIRC. The extra six feet of an HPWC would probably cover your needs.

Yep.. that's pretty much what I said.