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Most states require at least 1 rear view mirror. The center mirror usually meets that requirement unless it is blocked.

I stumbled upon this side mirror delete mod. Says 4% less drag. I'm interested in this mod because I think it would really help the efficiency in my road trips where I occasionally hit 90+ mph. https://evannex.com/products/evannex-side-mirror-delete-for-tesla-model-3

I think it acts like a mini mud guard

I have t sportline. It says 1" but I think it's more like 1.2" Ride quality is a little bumpier but it's not too noticable

Didn't feel like creating a new post. My passenger side front endurapro plus broke right where the skinny part begins. I guess having the adjustment in the center means there is less metal overall. I was on a road trip when this happened. I don't think I hit any pot holes. It could have been a...

I looked. I see most ppl are getting .44.x update right now. You are only 1 major update behind. I didn't see anyone on 2024 update on teslafi. I think you are fine and will most likely get the 44 update

You can't get max rate unless the car is at 10-45% state of charge. Also, I don't think the standard range can get to 250. I believe it is around 175kW max

Did you do any service at Tesla prior to Oct? Sometimes service put the car in a secret service mode. Happened to me. I didn't get update for 6 months until I requested service in the app for the issue. Two days later I magically got an update.

I ordered from AliExpress like 4 years ago. I searched Amazon and they have similar for around the same price. Just search for "glue pdr kit". About $30 is a good price for the puller, glue gun and some glue sticks.

That looks like a similar dent I had years ago. I believe it was from the seat belt. After opening the rear door and then unbuckling the seat belt, the buckle flies off and hit that spot. Just my theory because I saw my kid do it one time. Anyway I was able to fix it myself for under $50. Not...

I use a toothpick and smear it a bit. Then use credit card under their wipe and solution. Dr colorchip and Tesla touchup paint is the same thing. Here is the technique I've been using for years.

I initially had the same problem but was able to run this test successfully. I have a 2018 LR RWD April build. Started the test at 9% SOC. When I clicked the Begin Test, I did hear the car power on something. I closed the door and left the car. I checked the status of the car throughout the...

I think it is most likely your 12v battery. It was the case for my car until I finally figured it out. When updating the firmware and reaching 60% install mark, the HV connection disconnects and the 12v has to continue performing the update w/o being charged. This is when the update usually...

Are you sure rounding the nose will get better Cd? I think the Model S Cd improved going from 2.4 to 2.08 by using more square nose vs round. I believe the goal was to channel air to the sides of the car vs over under.

Lol. It's a good buy. They last forever and as you can see have multiple uses.

I've been doing and updating my alignment method to point where I it is pretty darn accurate. It's not as difficult or complicated as one would think.

I think it's a weird partial failure. It was charging at 32A max for a while then a few months later it dropped to 25A. I tried my mobile charger and my home charger which is a 40A charger. It does say 25A/40A. Funny thing is that if I reduce the amp rate, the charging rate goes down too but at...

Yeah. I wish I knew that from the start. First I replaced the FUCA. It was squeaking anyway. Then I replaced the end links. Then the front shocks with Tein. The noise disappeared then when it got cold the noise came back. I had my kid up and down on the side of the car with the door open while I...

My 2018 LR RWD only charges 25A now. I have 59k miles on the car. I believe it originally failed around 45k mark but it didn't know about the PCS issue. It was charging at 32A max but I really thought I had a bad grid or power issue. I'll keep using it until the max Amp goes down to 16A. Hoping...

My clunking noise ended up being end link sway bar being loose. Well it had to tighten up much more than I thought.

My car too pulls slightly to the right. I've also read others reporting the same. I talked to my friend about it, and he said it is by design for most newer cars. It's just in case you fall asleep at the wheel, the car veers right to prevent a head on collision with traffic going the opposite...

My car does the same thing and I aligned the wheels myself and tried to be exactly even as possible. Then I talked to my friend about it. He told me most cars are like that by design to avoid head on collision with cars going in the opposite direction. Now I don't feel so bad.

This feels like a troll post. All you have to do is enter or say the address into the navigation and it will show you exactly where to charge.

Aww... I missed the fun. This was my car during Halloween.

For now, it works on 3, Y, Refreshed 2021 S and refreshed 2021 X.

Anybody else doing something fun with their car this Halloween? I did jack skellington last year.

@ppower That's good testing. I would like to point out that the tape probably flaps like crazy at higher speeds. So more turbulence. I was thinking about getting some aluminum sheets from home depot and cut it to fit. Use the existing ikon lip bolts to hold it in place. Another point I want to...

I don't think you need to be at 121 miles to charge. I think you just need to be at 121 at any moment and then open the app and go to the charging screen and tap on the battery.

Are you checking the battery once the HV connector is disconnected? If not, then you are checking the battery when it is being charged which isn't the true voltage of the 12v battery.

Don't worry about disconnecting the HV battery connector under the seat. Since the car is dead, it's already disconnected. Just replace the 12v battery. If you need a temporary solution, then use a third party 12v charger to charge the battery up a bit. At least over 12v. Once the voltage drops...

I bought it so long ago that the kit I have is not available anymore. You can search for "PDR Puller" Here are some similar to what I have: PDR Puller Kit on AliExpress PDR Puller Kit on Amazon

I had a ding near the door edge that I PDR myself using the glue version. It was my first time trying something like that. Appears the risk of doing further damage to the car is very low. I'm happy with the results. Here is the video:

I'm using a huge solenoid to act as a relay and using 6 gauge wiring throughout. I think I may be overkilling it a bit. https://nvx.com/nvx-bir200.html There are smaller versions: https://nvx.com/nvx-bir80.html

Yes, the amp is drawing too much too quickly when powering up which drops the 12v battery voltage pass a safety threshold. When this happens, the car disconnects all non-essential devices to preserve the 12v battery including the HV battery which is what charges the 12v battery. Strange but...

When you get this message, this means the 12v is running on it's own. So the HV is not charging the battery. The charging port won't even work. One way to fix is to disconnect and reconnect the 12v battery. If the 12v has enough juice to power up, everything will go back to normal. If not, you...

Even before this update my car does that sometimes. Full sunlight and the headlights are on.

Over 80% of the Tesla cars are on 2021.4.18.x. The newest version is 2021.12.25.6. It only adds a new game and two languages. There is nothing about vision only. In the end, you can't do anything about. Just have suck it up and wait until you get picked to update. You'll get used to it.

They do cover the factory rims and protect from road rash. See post below from someone what actually scratched it up: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/orbital-wheel-covers-kickstarter-reboot.186424/page-14#post-5482670 I interested in them as well but they seem to be price a little too...

Umm... like where did you get it installed? I jest but most people don't have a nice lift in their garage.

https://myaccount.google.com/security It's on that page somewhere. I believe you have to turn off 2FA first, then you will see an option to enable less secure. I don't want to try it because I don't want to setup my 2FA again.

Did you enable less secure app access? https://support.google.com/accounts/answer/6010255?hl=en#zippy=

The plastic bottom piece is just a cover. No it won't damage your battery. If it's not too bad, you can probably cover that with aftermarket sideskirts. I know I would. https://tsportline.com/products/tesla-model-3-carbon-fiber-side-skirts

@pt19713 I would think that testing in lower temperatures would be trickier since lower temperature would cause the car to use the heater more. You have a better tool. I would like to see what you come up with. I'm going to dig into my Teslamate logs. I wonder if I can pull out some raw data.

It was actually 57F. So setting it on LO did get the temp pretty low. Once again, this was in a covered parking garage. The fan speed was just on automatic. I changed the temperature from the phone.

Not quite understanding what the OP is asking. Do you want to charge the car or use the car to charge other devices? If your intent is to charge the car with different plugs, then yes it does exists but not in America. In China below:

With hot Summer weather approaching, I thought to point out that setting the climate above 71F consumes about double the amount of energy. Intuitively, the thinking is setting the climate warmer means the a/c runs less often. The reality is that in Teslas, it creates heat to get the air to the...

No fix. Have to replace the whole unit.

Are you hearing the charge port ticking? Mine ticks. Others have reported as well. Not sure why but the car does go to sleep.

Be sure to also enable allow less secure app or something like that. Then you can log into google from the tesla browser. https://support.google.com/accounts/answer/6010255/less-secure-apps-amp-your-google-account?hl=en

Like others have said, ceramic tint makes a big difference. You don't have to go dark if you don't want to. I also have my whole windshield tinted 70%. When I drive other cars w/o windshield tint, I can feel my arms burning in direct sunlight.