Recent content by ChrisMPK

I drove about 250 miles with it today, mostly freeway. - Lane changing seemed much smoother - Decision making to pull out of the passing lane and back was more frequent and smoother - It biases away from semi's pretty hard, often riding the lane marker - Very little phantom braking, not gone...

You know how much you could take it past zero that time. You have no idea what will happen next time you try this. The SOC meter is constantly adjusting. You really shouldn't plan any trips that have you arriving with less than 15%.

The pads float and are held in place by the pins. Standard disk brake setup, very easy to service.

They do need maintenance, but it's a lot less and you don't need to go to a mechanic for it. Change cabin air filter and wipers by yourself once a year. Get the tires swapped at a tire shop every few years and have the brakes cleaned and checked at the same time. Tesla service will rotate...

Your situation is possibly the perfect use case for an EV of any kind. 1. Own your home and can control charging time and rates 2. Need to commute routinely which means there is a significant existing gas bill to offset. 3. Have alternate means of transport for infrequent road trips. The...

I can hear the same thing on the drivers side only with the windows down. It's a metal on metal clink. I've inspected the tire and that isn't the cause. Looks like I need to make an SC appointment.

Misleading title, bordering on click-bait. You do not "damage" the battery by driving any more than you damage the brakes by using them to stop the car. They both wear slowly due to normal use and eventually need to be replaced. Using either abnormally, like using DCFC 2-3 times a day or...

No

If using metal clad wire you can definitely just fasten this wire to the bottom of the joist. It will be a lot quicker and easier. If, however, you are planning on finishing your basement in the near future, you may want to drill the joist to make that project easier. The jacket on the 6/2...

Aluminum wire should really only be used for feeding a sub panel a long distance from a main panel. This is absolutely the wrong use for it. Also, if you aren't limited by capacity on your panel, run a 60A circuit for your charger. The cost difference is negligible, and assuming that you...

Why not just attach the conduit to the bottom of the joist instead of drilling them all out? A large load like an EV charger is always ideal coming from the main panel instead of the sub panel, but I agree that upgrading the sub panel feeder is another valid option.

^^^ This is where to start. It sounds like you have narrowed down the issue to Your Car + Your Location. Other Location or Other Car does not cause the issue, and changing the EVSE does not change the outcome. "Dirty Power" is a thing, but has nothing to do with your issue. You need to clear...

1 - Line 10 indicates that the breaker and wire for the charging circuit have been appropriately sized. If you suspect that the main service wire and breaker are not appropriately sized, charging is the least of your worries and you probably need to rethink all other electrical usage in your...

Another less scientific way to approach this if you have an unknown capacity to add current draw: 10 Run a new 60a circuit with appropriately sized wire and breaker to your garage. 20 Install HPWC and commission at 60a. 30 Start charging. 40 If you trip the main breaker, reset it and lower the...

We have one, but I charge 99% at my office. We shared it for a few months which was OK. It depends on both of your commutes and how diligent you are at plugging in.