Recent content by neurocutie

I will probably also keep my LR AWD 2020 for quite a well. I just really like it, plus not sure I want to deal with a no-stalk steering wheel. Also not sure about the heat pump in -15F winters -- is it now reliable? it certainly wasn't before. But yes, the one thing I will worry about is rust...

Happens to me a lot -- rear right tire. Its the corner furthest from you the driver, so it is prone to getting more dinged and driving over stuff. Its the wheel that has the most "curb rash". And it gets the most screws, nails, etc. I had to fix one *again*, a tiny nail. Several months ago, it...

I've now gotten this alert a few times over the last month, usually while starting to charge, but either SC or AC(home). Any idea of the cause? Hope it also doesn't take a few weeks since the service ctr is 80miles away... BTW, I have yet to notice any "power limit".

I can say that my M3 LR/AWD with CrossClimate 2 AS tires does alot better in moderate snow than my BMW 328xi (also AWD) with Pirelli Soto 3 snow tires. Whether the M3 does in "smart" handling its AWD makes it much more stable than BMW's AWD. Of course, if there is NO traction then the snow...

I bought lifetime alignments for my BMW 328xi for $300 and have had at least 6 done so far. Definitely worth it. Strongly considering doing that for my M3.

just curious if it is LiFePO4 and how cold weather is dealt with (e.g. -20F). My understanding is that trying to charge such batteries below 32F is death), yet I don't think one can afford to heat the battery... (think leaving the car at the airport for 30days in -20F weather...)

yeah, nearly everything discussed here has been dissipative (diodes, resistor, series pass transistor). Given the description of the problem, the 2 power diode (rectifiers) make the most sense (KISS), as long as a decent heatsink is used. The precise voltage drop isn't going to be critical...

not sure I see how your suggestions gives a 1V voltage drop... if I understand your proposal, you are engaging only 1 diode's worth of voltage drop, which would not be 1V. Each diodes gives you abouit 0.6 - 0.7V so you have to deal in multiples of those values. The use of a germanium diode is...

not sure why you'd want a bridge vs just 1 or 2 power diodes. Regardless you still have to arrange for adequate power dissipation (i.e. heat sinks). I would have just gotten 1 or 2 of the bolt-style power diodes (rectifiers) as I am used to bolting them to heatsinks. Not sure how close to 500W...

I think it was about 6-8mos ago that a new software update started this Transfer crap. Super-annoying. It used to just transfer automatically.

I can't say for sure, but it does look like there was a burst of sunlight for some reason. Still it is strange that a burst of sunlight causes the camera to go purple corrogation...

Today, the M3 alarm triggered. So I rushed out to the parking garage at work. Looking around I found nothing unusual. Looking at the Sentry recordings, nothing really obvious that would have triggered it, just some cars driving by... except that I noticed in the recording, perhaps 5-10 secs...

I think what has happened is that Tesla messed with the WEP/WPA/WPA2 algorithms. I previously used WEP. I found that setting up a new router with WPA2 allows my M3 to connect reliably again. Just buy a new $20 router and set up a new SSID with WPA2 and it should work and save you $200+...

I've been given to understand that this is a Singaporean trait, and may not be a Tesla-specific behavior. Its been said that the default answer from anything Singaporean is "NO", "not possible", "not allowed".

? Sentry mode can be setup to be disabled at work and home so no wear or battery usage for at least 50% of the time in a typical day, with the car sleeping...