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I will probably also keep my LR AWD 2020 for quite a well. I just really like it, plus not sure I want to deal with a no-stalk steering wheel. Also not sure about the heat pump in -15F winters -- is it now reliable? it certainly wasn't before. But yes, the one thing I will worry about is rust...

Happens to me a lot -- rear right tire. Its the corner furthest from you the driver, so it is prone to getting more dinged and driving over stuff. Its the wheel that has the most "curb rash". And it gets the most screws, nails, etc. I had to fix one *again*, a tiny nail. Several months ago, it...

I've now gotten this alert a few times over the last month, usually while starting to charge, but either SC or AC(home). Any idea of the cause? Hope it also doesn't take a few weeks since the service ctr is 80miles away... BTW, I have yet to notice any "power limit".

I can say that my M3 LR/AWD with CrossClimate 2 AS tires does alot better in moderate snow than my BMW 328xi (also AWD) with Pirelli Soto 3 snow tires. Whether the M3 does in "smart" handling its AWD makes it much more stable than BMW's AWD. Of course, if there is NO traction then the snow...

I bought lifetime alignments for my BMW 328xi for $300 and have had at least 6 done so far. Definitely worth it. Strongly considering doing that for my M3.

just curious if it is LiFePO4 and how cold weather is dealt with (e.g. -20F). My understanding is that trying to charge such batteries below 32F is death), yet I don't think one can afford to heat the battery... (think leaving the car at the airport for 30days in -20F weather...)

yeah, nearly everything discussed here has been dissipative (diodes, resistor, series pass transistor). Given the description of the problem, the 2 power diode (rectifiers) make the most sense (KISS), as long as a decent heatsink is used. The precise voltage drop isn't going to be critical...

not sure I see how your suggestions gives a 1V voltage drop... if I understand your proposal, you are engaging only 1 diode's worth of voltage drop, which would not be 1V. Each diodes gives you abouit 0.6 - 0.7V so you have to deal in multiples of those values. The use of a germanium diode is...

not sure why you'd want a bridge vs just 1 or 2 power diodes. Regardless you still have to arrange for adequate power dissipation (i.e. heat sinks). I would have just gotten 1 or 2 of the bolt-style power diodes (rectifiers) as I am used to bolting them to heatsinks. Not sure how close to 500W...

I think it was about 6-8mos ago that a new software update started this Transfer crap. Super-annoying. It used to just transfer automatically.

I can't say for sure, but it does look like there was a burst of sunlight for some reason. Still it is strange that a burst of sunlight causes the camera to go purple corrogation...

Today, the M3 alarm triggered. So I rushed out to the parking garage at work. Looking around I found nothing unusual. Looking at the Sentry recordings, nothing really obvious that would have triggered it, just some cars driving by... except that I noticed in the recording, perhaps 5-10 secs...

I think what has happened is that Tesla messed with the WEP/WPA/WPA2 algorithms. I previously used WEP. I found that setting up a new router with WPA2 allows my M3 to connect reliably again. Just buy a new $20 router and set up a new SSID with WPA2 and it should work and save you $200+...

I've been given to understand that this is a Singaporean trait, and may not be a Tesla-specific behavior. Its been said that the default answer from anything Singaporean is "NO", "not possible", "not allowed".

? Sentry mode can be setup to be disabled at work and home so no wear or battery usage for at least 50% of the time in a typical day, with the car sleeping...

because of current? or voltage? because it is easy enough to drop down the 15.5V to something closer to 12-13.2V... maybe a voltage drop, current limiter and a big capacitor would get you something satisfactory, as long as you don't really use 600watts continuously.

sounds like a different problem, as you are implying that your car can't see *any* APNs/SSIDs... whereas my M3 could/can see all expected APNs/SSIDs. It just couldn't successfully connect to any, particularly one that I've been using with the M3 for the past 3 years. Seems fixed now with the...

An update to the update... Last night, Tesla pushed yet another update (the 2nd after this WiFi problem started), 2022.44.25.2 (v11.1). Well, now I find that the WiFi connects to my *old* SSID/router again. I don't know if they fixed something in this last update, but WiFi connects now as it...

My update to this problem is: 1) I've been going around and around with TSC via messaging. They can't really tell me anything useful and are just saying to bring the car in, i.e. can't be handled by mobile service. Well the nearest TSC is 75mins away, so not going unless I'm convinced it is...

I had the same problem with the OEM MXM4 on my 2020 LR: no tread left after 22K. I called Michelin (actually went to dealer first, but they punted) and told them the problem. They said they would give me credit, about 50%. Bought Michelin CrossClimate 2's, instaled by dealer. Michelin gave me...

Thanks for the suggestion, which I should try. However if it is seeing a 5GHz signal, it was also there prior to the update...

Yup, I have already tried rebooting the Tesla and the routers. I also I have two routers with different SSIDs. Neither works with the Tesla now but both continue to work with other devices around the house. This is the first time in 3+ years that the Tesla Wifi has given me problems.

Just updated to 2022.40.4.1 to find that my home WiFi no longer connects, either automatically or manually. grrr.... It sees the SSIDs but can no longer connect. Perhaps there is a way to back out of the latest update?

What happens to these 12V Li batteries if your Tesla needs to suffer through a cold winter, temperatures down to -15F? i thought trying to charge Li batteries in the cold means death...

I've had the hardest time finding a USB stick/drive that would work with Sentry for more than 2-3 mos. Had to do constant reformating, about every week. Finally found that the SSD/SATA/USB combo worked well. it lasted for 1+ year. Then i got mysterious full UI crash/reboots -- about once a week...

Maybe I'm wrong but I think I'd rather see a nice tidy outlet than some capped wires and holes in the wall, if I was buying a house. Its all appearances, to be sure, but that is what selling a house is about, mostly. exactly... as well as (for me at the time), coughing up an add'n $500 for the WC.

Since my M3 came with the mobile charger, I opted for a 14-50 outlet instead of also buying the wall charger. It does also mean that 1) it will be easy to take the mobile charger with me without leaving a hole, or an easier fix/replacement should the charger become faulty, etc, 2) the 14-50...

me too, squeaking, replaced, now 9mos later squeaking again... However, it may be that the first time was the front, now the rear...

for up to about 5psi to be added, I also use a bike pump.... its just faster than dragging out the 12v pump. And I keep a bike pump in my frunk.

About 1.5 years ago, my 2020 M3 started to have squeaking noises, which gradually got worse. With threads like this one and others, it seemed like a common problem. Tesla SC replaced the upper control arms and the noises went away. Now, perhaps 1.5yrs later, the squeaking noises (or similar ones...

Is there any reasonable way to use a Ring app (or maybe website) on the Tesla to view and control Ring devices (cameras, alarms, etc) at home? would be nice...

Its surprising, but I suppose possible. Indeed there are a number of RF protocols for garage door operners (green button, purple button, etc). How old is the one that doesn't work inside a Tesla? Mine works fine (I think it is a "green button"). Its a nuisance to have to consider replacing the...

Alternative? I just tell Alexa to open my garage door... total cost was less than $30, which includes having Alexa available for lots more, music, weather, turning on lights, etc, etc.

So I removed my USB/SSD for a week. No further crashes. Then I plugged that USB/SSD back in -- within minutes, the car UI crashed. After it rebooted, I reformated the SSD. Its been about 4 days since and no crashes yet. still anecdotal, not definitive, but: - The UI's handling of USB drives...

i hope it was at least Diet-Sprite.... all that HFCS on the insides of your Tesla sounds like a bad idea... I thought the usual formula to use was baking soda and water....

no web browsing :) is that even possible? I do have a SSD attached to USB for Sentry, but its been there for the past 8mos or more. So what's changed in the past 1-2 weeks -- new update may be 2-3 weeks ago... I will remove the SSD to see if it helps, but that would be irritating since I've...

.... and a FOURTH time this week... thats a huge uptick in crash frequency from the last 2.5 years. In fact I only ever had 4 crashes during the last 2.5 years, but now 4 new crashes during the past week??? If no one else is experiencing this level of UI crashes, I have to conclude there is a...

.... and a THIRD time this week my M3 spontaneously crashed/reboot.... Is it hardware or software?

Just happened again, twice in one day, about 8 hours apart (drove to work, it happened, parked, worked, drove back home, it happened again!) Getting worried this is becoming a *thing*... Was playing BT audio music both times (70% of the time while I'm driving, so very typical for me). Version...

Actually these days, my Windows PC crash ALOT LESS than either my iPhone or my Tesla. I have PCs running continuously for 2-3 years. Of course I have to disable automatic updates to get that, which I do... Chrome, on the other hand, crashes alot....

Is there any real evidence/data that a periodic UI reboot prevents random future UI crashes/random reboot, or is this just speculation? My M3 just this again...3rd time in 6mos, but it seems correlated with getting new firmware/updates. Silly me, I guess I thought an M3 software crash should...

18000+ its a 2020 model year, received in Dec 2019. First time I remember it crashing, it was freaky. I had just parked and the screen went blank. Eventually it rebooted itself, but I was quite startled for a few minutes, unsure what to do. But even freakier is like the last time, a few days...

I did reformat my USB SSD drive a few days ago -- I find that seems to be needed every few months to keep the Sentry mode working...

In 2.5 years my M3 UI has crashed maybe 4-5 times (screen goes black then reboots after 10secs, luckily the car is still drivable). But it has now crashed twice in four days. Maybe due to recent software update? 2022.8.2.5. I noticed it now wants to update again, 2022.8.3.5.

Or an analog audio to BT adapter...

Should be possible to find a CD player/server with RF/Wifi remote that you could squirt audio into a BT adapter (or FM modulator). Like a Brennan (thebrennan.com). There are others. I have an older discontinued HiFidelio/Olive that can do this. Cost me about $80 used on ebay. Added benefit is...

Wow, once I did exactly that. My car had nearly nothing but her car had a serious dent... ugh

temperature makes a huge difference, but in both ways (as things warm up, psi should rise). otherwise 1psi loss per month is on the high side and anything above is definitely a leak. shouldn't have to add air more than 1 or 2 times a year, if at all.

not normal. have a tire place check it out, or use the standard soapy water test to find the leak.

My "overhead cable management" consists of an old wire hanger, with a little help from the garage door opener framework. :) The 14-50 outlet is in the ceiling, along with the charger. Also can be seen is the Alexa-enabled interface (< $15) to the garage door opener.