Recent content by petersv

Disappointing indeed. Do you know which part failed?

perfect @markwj, very nice of you to offer this.

I don't get it, are you trying to argue that the cable Tesla uses itself, isn't good enough? I don't mind at all that people want to spend more then necessary, but there is no objective reason to do so for this cable.

If so, I would most def get the Tesla official one, since longer is not needed and also is more likely to give connectivity issues (however not likely in this case.)

It's cheaper at Tesla, part nr 1007780-00-D about 22$ (exact same cable). You can also get the cheaper 1127304-00-B at 8$ which has fakra on both ends, chop it and crimp on an RJ45 yourself.

You can send it to me and I'll fix numerous undisclosed HW issues for you, I promise :D Jokes aside, I would hold off until more info arises on this alleged HW issue. I thought the bug bounty program excluded HW issues?

Yes.

Right before update will work, yes. Factory reset, no.

That is correct, it requires a redeploy to work, and a sw update will fix it.

Yes, it's a common practice at some independent shops. One could argue that the penetration risk of the bolts into the pack in case of a collision is slightly higher, but they only stick our a few mm from the nut.

@fixingstill, according to the manual, but can be cut and entered the opposite direction without dropping the pack.

If you have an android device, you can use the app "Scan my Tesla".

If I haven't made that clear, I'm sorry @sorka. In my opinion, and I would guess quite a few others as well, you really can't compare those two vehicles you are mentioning. (Tesla Model S vs. Prius.) If you have owned a mid or high range relatively modern European (and I would guess recent US)...

Beacuse we all know that Priuses and Model S's wight the same and have the same suspesion design.. o_O

They only come pre-balled to be easier to solder. Balls are actually a disadvantage when using a pinned test-socket. Although both will work fine most of the time.