Recent content by thesuffering

id agree with @bo3bdar . Id like to see a picture of how its wired up or at least a diagram of how you wired it exactly. I can rest my hand on the resistor all day long when its running or not and its lukewarm at best.

if your cigarette lighter is 15v, it sounds like you have a post refresh Model 3 with 16v low voltage. Is yours 2021+ with the newer center console and usb c? AFAIK for post refresh model the procedure is essentially all the same but you have to ensure all of your equipment accepts 16v input...

To add to what RWAudio said, if you dont want to try to deal with signal sense you can improvise your own switched 12v that works with the seat sensor. i have info and a diagram on reddit, and there is a similar thread also here on TMC. Definitely more involved but this would allow more amp...

ill take your word for it, i read several places it causes issues that i found a hard wired solution, but if it truly works itd be far simpler of an install.

Problem with audio sense is sentry will cause false positives. It puts enough signal on the speakers to turn it on. Using the brown wire seat sensor is my preferred method.

1 and 3 address separate things. For 1, use the post in #3 with instructions for the remote wire and using the brown wire from the seat sensor + a relay. Its been rock solid. If i am out of the seat and the door closes, it goes to 0v every single time and remains off. For 3: FWIW ive been...

Brown wire i can confirm will give you the desired behavior. If you open the door and then close it again and there is nobody in the seat it cuts power because nobody is in the car and it should shut off. If you are still in the seat you can open and close the door and it all remains on...

Agree with what @Jerry Ham says. There is quite a big difference in resistance. Think about an 4ohm amp and bridging it to 2ohms, you get more power right? Same idea here, except in reverse. The higher the resistance, the lower the power. Those errors you got sound like the in-rush current...

Thanks. Yes I do have an Intel MCU, and I saw that but i still have full warranty until March of next year so before i start taking the tuner apart im going to wait until it expires. All my modifications so far are fairly easily reversed if i need to go in for service, but this feels a lot...

Installed SiriusXM due to some areas in AZ having poor cell and fm coverage, so the app doesnt always work and its a bit of a PITA over bluetooth anyway. Ran the antenna on the trunk using 3m mounting tape to hold the wire to the underside and ran along and into the grommet for the tail light...

I just bought 3 Wall Connectors. For each one It asked me for name and address. I dont think they really care where they go.

Anyone have an idea of what wire i can use as an illumination wire? im installing one of those add on siriusxm units that is hard wired and it has the ability to dim when the headlights are on but i cannot seem to find any reference to anything i can use for this

Thats a different wire. The one behind the HVAC vents is for the light inside of the center console armrest. It works in conjunction with the seat sensor. Installed an amp and subs over the weekend It was my understanding its not powerful enough to power accessories by itself, so i used it...

Yes, thank you! Thats exactly where i suspected it goes. Youll notice on the other side is a metal contact that moves with the lid. It looks like its held in place by pressure so i may have to take it apart to get it back in. I couldnt just shove it in. Anyhow, that black wire on the far...

That was me :-) lmao. Here is my matching TMC post if you need it: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/installed-an-amp-and-subs-over-the-weekend.302160/ Hope the changes fix your issues!