Recent content by Travieh5

When I had f_036 I had a bad rear motor. I didn’t have any internal leaking or anything. Think the inverter board burned up inside the motor

Sorry, dyi would be like $500. SC will prob be $1500 or so I bet. Best of luck and let us know how is goes.

Depending on your mechanic skill. They can be easy to fix for under $500 for one if not both. I believe they make dummy plugs to test and make sure what component is keeping the hvil from working properly.

I believe when I got f_150 it was either the prv heater or ac. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-error-code-bms_w150-and-bms_f150.219130/

Not in my case. Must of came loose? No other way to explain it. Disconnected it, cleaned up what I could and reinstalled and worked, easiest way to start other then changing out high voltage parts and hoping it works. Your service screen should show you if your hv contactors are even closing.

Another thread that might help out. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/what-is-the-problem-with-error-bms_f036.269684/page-2#post-7510252

Have you tried the rapid splitter from battery to rear motor/dc/dc connector. My 17 MX had the issue and seemed like there was a lot of arching. Got a new one off eBay and solved my issue. You’re an older model so might be the same as mine. I’m have to drop the rear subframe to get to it .

Might be water, my drain clogged up and had about inch or so pooling. Have to remove taillight to replace. Sensor was submerged in water.

Not sure that was the best choice. You didn’t mess the rubber boot/metal clip/rink that holds runner boot or bearing up in that? Should have removed the whole cv axel from the motor instead of that.

Bms_f027 needs reset with t-daig or toolbox 3. Won’t work till that code is manually cleared from the bms. This thread has a video on it. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-model-s-stopped-working-car-may-not-restart.129097/page-3

Best to go into the service screen and see what the faults are. Gives you a better description and you can also check your ohm’s resistance/in your hv connection is actually closing.

You will def have to drop the sun frame with the 4 bolts.(two on each side). You may be able to get a small pry bar in where my finger is pointing to get to it. This is my 17 MX so the MS may be a little different

I’ll snap a better picture of mine when I get home today. You will have to remove the inner fender liner as well to complete see into the underneath. You will see the subframe(picture), it will be located in front of subframe pretty tight in there. You can see in second picture where my hv lines go

The pins look pretty clean with little to no arc spots. Look like any water got under the boot? Sometimes that isn’t pushed in hard enough or lined up great.sometimes take a pry bar and pushing “firmly” not hard on it will push it in the full 100% in it needs to go in. I know the original posted...