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Mine never comes back...

Yeah. Why isn't there a front-page follow-up article on this? Super lame

How many mouths do you have?

I'm gonna try this...

Yep tested it with a standalone tester a couple of weeks ago after taking the battery out of the car and letting it rest 12+ hours. Something tells me that it’s related to my sentry USB, which worked great until recently. Now it’s basically toast.

Problem came up again & the car's once again chewing through its battery. Sounds like the "bug" is not allowing the car to go to sleep, because when I open the app, I'm not hearing the HV contactors engage. I called Tesla so that they could at least try to log the root cause of the issue, but of...

Response from Tesla: "I can’t say for sure if they will goodwill as it is at the manager’s discretion. However the cause of the increased amperage that we have found is not directly based on the units capacity or rate of flow. If there is any damage to the internal cables or the terminals of...

Don't worry guys FSD is coming soon and all is well!

Good info. Potentially a design flaw on Tesla's part? Although the adapter itself feels very high-quality... I'm hesitant to buy another because there's no guarantee it won't happen again. But I guess that's better than being stranded.

Might've already said this ITT but - the local pros where I used to live said they had to scrap 2 - 3 Model 3 bumper pieces when the car first came out, until they got their technique down.

Correction - it was 11.5 KW. Also, nobody else at that office has had this problem.

Add me to this club. Used it maybe 5x - never any issues until now. 11.2 KW charger at work - secured parking lot. Photo of the charger coworker took - ignore the red circle. Problem pin is the one next to it.

Take off the front bumper & look for the radar module. Or, wait until it ices over & see if it melts a hole in the frost covering the bumper.

My MPP Sports "ping" every once in a while under hard driving. I really don't care. We install these parts to give the car character - character we get. If it was doing it every turn of the wheel then yeah, I'd be a little annoyed. But it's really infrequent. And when passengers ask "what's...

Those guys are painfully French

Modern journalism strikes again!

Are you in a Performance + or -?

I needed to replace some PPF on my wife's car. Bought some 3M Pro Series in bulk from an ebay seller by the name of "avatarkey." I've done my fair share of PPF and could immediately tell this felt thinner than usual when I pulled it out of the package. I had some old film laying around & took...

That's what I was leaning towards believing ... 285 front factory tire sounds pretty immense. Maybe he thought the 6 was an 8. Details & all that. ffs.

What's the verdict on the Plaid tire sizes? Hearing conflicting info. This guy's saying 285 in the front & 295 in the rear OEM... 2-minute mark:

Some bubbles are large enough to create a "gap" in the film & never really go away. Definitely takes experience - bulk rolls are lower risk. Bumpers etc… take it to a professional. This is coming from a stubborn asshole who DIYs as much as reasonably possible.

Depends on the shape. If it’s very “3D” like a bumper - as difficult as it gets. If it’s relatively flat like a hood or fender, it’s not that bad - obviously car-dependent too. Our hoods are super easy.

Someone needs to give that guy a proper ass-kicking

I'm assuming you're on sway bars with polyurethane bushings? Could it be the rear bar? Might be worth a quick shot removing it & driving around.

Yeah I thought that was really the only justification for adjustable end links (and even then, only one). Otherwise I'm not sure how you could do this when the bar's hooked up? Dunno how much that has to do with the bushings being too tight tho. FWIW, I can hear both of mine "squeak" whenever I...

BUT U CAN GET USETA IT

Sikh

Not sure what'd be considered too tight - aren't the OEM rubber bushings bonded to the bar? IRRC

I hope you're right. I just worry that eventually EVs are going to get much cheaper than ICE cars, with performance that's far more accessible to the average dunce. With where the brand has gone, I'm no longer a diehard BMW fan. But I can attest to the fact that the interior in older BMWs had a...

I need to get some of those and maybe MPP FUCAs... in any case, the car is so capable that to make it "engaging" you need to be approaching truly horrifying speeds. I'm genuinely worried that as this new era of performance evolves, da gubmint is gonna start cracking down on "fast cars" because...

That's why you get a P- :)

Yeah I got lucky with that massive gap right behind my space... The only thing I'm really worried about is some moron complaining - it doesn't even get half as warm as my standard 14-50 setup in our old house. Luckily, doing this a couple of times a week, overnight, is plenty for the driving...

Ladies and gentlemen… The future of personal transportation.

Any ham-fisted imbecile could swap both headlights in one of these cars in <1 hour.

Why don't you move your coilovers to the new car?

Just checked mine - it's fine. Used an inspection mirror & flashlight. PITA to get eyes on it w/o a garage but it's doable.

I've been having a ton of problems with this damn thing lately - not acknowledging the drive, phantom sentry messages that I'm unable to clear, etc.

hell ya. Thanks

Thanks for the input - I think I grossly overcomplicated this as usual. So I understand that the TPMS would continue reading the same PSI set at sea level, regardless of altitude (all else being equal). Is it then "correct" to adjust your tire pressure to this new altitude, as the Tire Rack...

It’s almost August

I think that makes sense… so what you’d ultimately want is for the gauge to read 42 - consequently making the TPMS read a little bit lower? Since that’s what the tire pressure would be at that altitude “fo real.”

Hypothetical. Forgot to say - this is everything else being held constant. wat? https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=167

Yeah I can confirm this - I'm on aftermarket wheels, bought OEM TPMS sensors from ebay for like $17/piece, they registered just fine within minutes after driving the car.

Let's assume TPMS is calibrated @ sea level (which I'm pretty sure it is), and you have a super-accurate handheld digital gauge. Target pressure is 42 PSI all-around. If you fill your tires to 42 at sea level, everything is in-sync: TPMS reads 42, and so does your handheld gauge. FYI - handheld...

Good info - I just want to clarify that the plastic clip that @pl8dlikafiddle & I are referring to is the "first one" that's holding 4 pipes together: And not the deeper one that @Black306 is pointing out here: I wasn't able to get to that one, either, since I'm garage-less for the time...

Checked this out, too - seconded on all counts. Mine was also a little "backed out," but it literally makes no difference due to how stout the lines are. In fact, it seems like the brake lines are holding the clip in... not the other way around.

Recall betting pool?

Just go to fixyourtesla.com - an absolute godsend. I believe there are also shady Ukranian sources.

There's really only one place where 4 lines converge like that - shortly after they exit the ABS unit. Could it be that what we're seeing is the steering column? Might explain why there's polishing all the way around.