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I'm considering replacing my '15 Model S 85D with a performance 3, seems like mid-upper 30s is about what ones similar to yours are listed for. Plenty of options listed higher but I have my doubts about many of them actually selling for that. Most of the ones in the link below are dealer...

It would be interesting to compile information on failures of whole packs, which I suspect is mostly what people care about (the myth that cell failure causes most pack failures). For example contactor failures, failures due to water ingress, etc. I don't particularly care that my 85 pack is...

Yep. The summary is that I had the MCU2 upgrade done a few months ago, afterwards voice commands weren't working (but streaming was) and they had me do a factory reset. That fixed the voice command issue but broke music streaming. They eventually sent it to the remote service people, who said...

No, I've never had to pay for it and don't have a slacker account. They apparently have some deal with slacker that doesn't require a login.

I have similar errors (and have for a while) but I've confirmed the louvers are operating fine right after plugging in. Could be due to being an older car with fewer sensors? Either way I fixed it by exiting out of service mode, just like I fixed the TPMS sensors on my last car with electrical...

They had to regenerate my slacker credentials somehow. Apparently they send a list to slacker twice a week and a few days later Slacker authorizes the cars. Took almost a week but this morning all of a sudden streaming works again.

Not to mention interest rates are going up, payments are more for those who finance which I assume is most.

That's what I meant by service, they said they were going to try to fix it remotely but couldn't so I ended up factory resetting. Fixed tunein but now music streaming doesn't work.

I had the mcu2 upgrade done a week ago and tunein stopped working, just get the spinning circle thing. Music streaming is fine. Service suggested I factory reset but I'm hesitant to try it and wipe out all my settings. You'd think they could just reset the tunein settings without wiping out...

I try to post this type of thing whenever it seems to be something new, glad it was helpful. Did you do the same thing or modify it in any way? Pictures?

Still no rattle noise from my brakes 3 weeks later, I'm calling this one fixed.

Installed new pads last night and coated the backs with CRC brake quiet. I coated the pads and let them sit for a couple of hours before starting the job, but otherwise didn't do anything special. Greased the edges of the pad backing and the pins/hardware with silaramic brake grease. The new...

I was in recently for the frunk hood latch recall and asked when my MCU2 would be in. They told me its because the factory making them is affected by the covid shutdowns in Shanghai and at the time they didn't know when it would be allowed to start back up.

You'll only get that high of a rate around 10-20% SOC. 39kW seems a bit low at 47%, but isn't too far off. If the pack isn't fully warmed up that will lower the rate you can handle, or presumably if it's too warm. For reference here's a plot from yesterday as I was driving back home, after ~3...

Longer than the stock molded plastic part I bet. Tool steel vs plastic...

Same here. I had a broken anti-rattle clip a month ago (ironic name given it doesn't work) and after replacing all 4 of them and greasing the slides and back of the pads it was silent for a few days but is back to "normal" again. I'm reading up on some of the other forums for cars with the same...

I wonder if something like this would help, I searched RockAuto for pads for my car (should be the same as yours) and filtered on ones with the word "quiet". I'm guessing the round ears on them are intended to lower the frequency of the noise and lower the drivers perception of noise (more mass...

Does the rattle go away when you touch the brakes, even lightly? I have a rattle in my '15 S that occurs over any minor bump, it goes away with minimal pressure on the brake pedal. I'm pretty confident it's the pads rattling around, if the calipers themselves were rattling I'd guess they're not...

On my utility trailer I use a 5.25" drop turned upside down which makes it almost perfectly level. For the boat I just got a 8" drop to use upside down but haven't tried it yet. The photo I posted with the boat is with the 5.25, but it's a bit lower than I'd like so hopefully the 8 will be better.

One question I've had is if any of the model s owners who tow have suggestions for backing the trailer. The car goes into park when I do what I normally do, which is lift off the seat and turn most of my body around. I find it helps make the backing up more intuitive vs trying to use the mirrors...

Brake pad anti-rattle clip, part of the brake hardware kit that includes the pins and keeps pressure on them to reduce movement of the pads. I had the same issue on my S, didn't find it on the driveway but it was broken in 2 and hanging out barely attached to the pins. New brake hardware on all...

@jjvan Do you have trailer brakes?

Seems like the left wheel breaks more than the right, likely gets more use controlling audio. Personally I wouldn't bother with both but ultimately up to you.

Very interested to hear how this goes. My annual trip with the boat has 135 miles between superchargers and I'm concerned i wouldn't make it even at 100% with 2900lbs of boat.

I think around 1000lb, you'd have to look it up to get an exact number.

Torklift is now starting to sell an updated version of their Model S hitch rated for 4000 lbs total, 400 lbs tongue. A couple people have already ordered and received them. Model S Trailer Hitch Installation has more of the discussion.

Very nice, is the long tube all one piece or is it 2 pieces welded to the center drop? Stainless steel? Of course now you're on the hook for even more installation pictures (please :))

@Jasper7821 I am jealous :) You'll probably be one of the few who can do a real side by side comparison not to mention getting the nice new stainless hitch. I'll see what you think of it but if it's really that much better I may have to try to sell my current one so I'm not 1k lbs over the limit...

We just need to convince someone who's had one installed for a few years to pull the bumper and inspect or stick a borescope in and see what they find. I peeked inside my bumper last night (installed last June including the nylon washers and thoroughly coated everything with antiseize) and aside...

I had similar concerns, I ended up cutting the hole a bit smaller than recommended and then once it was all back together I enlarged it with a Dremel as needed.

Did some internet sleuthing, the picture on the left (taken from the attached youtube video) shows what appears to be the same as in the Teslarati article and definitely a different receiver compared to @Jasper7821's, @antdun's and mine.

Interesting.... I ordered mine end of June last year so I'm guessing it's the redesigned one. They were talking about high volume then too so I doubt it was 6 months old.

I bought it from torklift directly and went with the 2" receiver. I don't recall if the cover fits both or not, I thought it was universal but I don't recall. I'll pm you a picture and we can hash out the shipping details outside the thread. A helper would have made it much easier, the hardest...

I did the hitch installation by myself in an afternoon and the wiring another evening. Maybe 5-6 hours total. I bought the cover but never ended up using it, if you want it I'll sell it for half price plus shipping. I haven't noticed any difference in noise with the hole open and you can't even...

This is what I used, contains moly according to the description. I don't know that it's really required though, the whole idea is to avoid having to hammer it out if it fails again. I haven't found anything really convincing one way or another. Some people say use anti-seize, others moly, others...

I did this same job on the passenger side this weekend. I used a slightly different approach since I couldn't get the tie rod nut loosened, but the level of difficulty seems about the same as @SwissPatriotRG reported. Took me about 3 hours in total, I forgot about the IPAs which may have at...

When you reconnect the 12V battery the pumps and valves go through a cycle that bleeds the air out. Just keep an eye on the coolant reservoir while it's doing that as the level will drop a bit. I filled mine to max before re-connecting the 12V battery and it went down to about halfway after the...

I was quoted around 240 (roughly, from memory) for a mobile tech to replace the valve. I opted to do it myself (took under an hour total to do 3-way and 4-way valves) but that seemed like a fair price for someone to show up to my work and fix my car.

I could have just been lucky, but all I did was power down the car via the main screen before removing everything. I didn't disconnect the airbag though.

Stopped here last wednesday on my way to o'hare. The 2 stalls closest to the big cabinets were not working, although the lights on the pedestals were on. One of the cables was laying in the snow so maybe that had something to do with it. One of the middle pedestals was partially knocked over...

You didn't need to put a hex key in the center of the stud to keep the ball from spinning? I'm not too worried about getting the old ones out but I don't want to damage the new ones putting them in.

If you can take pictures, notes, video, whatever when you're doing the job that would be great. I looked at doing it back when I was getting the clunking noise and it looked like to get them off you'd need to remove the brake rotors. One of the sway bar link nuts is buried inside the knuckle...

It varied, but mostly only one. I just posted that video because there were 2 so it was easier to hear. It was as if something was shifting into one position, then when I turned the opposite way it would do it again to another position. 2 months later and still no pops anymore.

Youtube video of the noise for posterity:

Available on Rockauto now too for slightly cheaper. I also checked with the SC and they're ~50 each from Tesla. Personally I'd get the amazon ones as returns tend to be easiest but good to have options. Up until a few months ago all I could find other than the official parts were for RWD cars.

That's roughly what I've seen with my utility trailer (~800lb) at highway speeds. I suspect it's more about the wind resistance than weight.

The Hy-Vee has a restaurant inside, decent food but nothing special. I get the sushi from the grocery portion often and it's good. Otherwise there are a few places across the street. They are.

The map in the app shows its down

And now reported unavailable again on the tesla app... Anyone have a feel for if it's normal for a new station to go up and down a lot at the beginning?

It was working again on Saturday when I stopped by the Hy-Vee