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Sorry for the late reply. It has been a while since I've been on here. You are 100% correct. I just wedged the rubber tubing into the molding area where the window meets the top of the door frame.

You are probably correct on both points. I read up a bit on how people soundproofed their cars (all makes and models - not just Teslas). There were some who just covered the outer skin of the doors, some who only did the inside shell of the door without removing all of the extras, and then some...

Hi, The build date on this one is 07/19. This is the only Tesla I have ever driven, so I unfortunately don't have anything to compare it to outside of my previous ICE vehicles. Well, I take that back. I test drove an X before buying this one, but it was a Raven as well. The noise levels were...

The door panel is a bit harder to get back on and needed some heavy hip bumping to get some clips to snap in due to the extra material between the panel and the door frame. I had a little bit of material left over, so I placed it the the crevice of the front edges of each area between the doors...

Next up, I covered the inner door shell (again with the technical terms). I was on a roll after finally finishing up the outer skin, so this next part was nothing. I just started throwing it on feeling good about my work as you can see in the 1st pic below. I covered the speaker hole while...

It's now time to start slapping on that sound proofing/barrier/deadening material! I went with Kilmat. I am not endorsed or anything. I read a few reviews of different materials, and I went with this because it was very well rated, had a great price, had adhesive already applied to it, and did...

I didn't remove the large plastic piece in the center of the door completely, because that looked to be too much of a hassle. After taking all of the T-20 Torx screws out, I just disconnected the following cables to give me enough slack and room to get in behind it. 1st cable - release the...

Now that the door panel is off and moved out of the way, let's start removing things to give us access to the inside of the door frame and where we can cut the hell out of our fingers and arms! First up is the speaker. 1) Disconnect the cable at the top of the speaker. You have to pry the left...

Disconnect the 2 cables holding the door panel on. 1) Pressing in on the small tab, disconnect the wide plastic connector from the control box (I know, I'm using complex terminology here. Just go with it). 2) Now on the inside of the plastic door panel, find where the 2nd cable attaches...

Now for the part that will make you cringe if you haven't done this before. I suggest placing a box or something below the door that the panel can rest on since there will be cables still connected when we start to remove this. I used the yellow top tote in my pictures, and it helped a whole...

Next up, I will be removing 4 10mm screws from the door panel. 2 of these are located in plain view where the trim piece was just removed. 1 is under a small removable rubber piece inside the door handle cubby area that you can get to by prying the rubber piece out. The last one is behind the...

OK. Let's get to work! Time to get that door panel off. 1) Begin prying on the edge of the long skinny trim piece shown below. You will feel and hear the clips releasing. *** DO NOT pull this all of the way off just yet. Just get it started. You will see why. *** 2) See the big silver metal...

Here are the tools I used for this project: 1) Kilmat 80mil 36 square feet sound deadening material pack. * https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751CBXBT 2) Metal rollers to apply the Kilmat. * https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TV19PQF 3) Plastic pry tool. 4) 10mm socket wrench. 5)...

Here are the things that I have tried in the past before we get started on this project: 1) I filled the 'A Pillars' and front wheel wells with Instapak foam filling. This did make a difference in noise in the upper front door frame, but I didn't hear a change in road noise from the front wheel...

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any issues that may occur if you try to do this yourself. This is only to show what I was able to do and how I did it. We have had our 2019 MXLR for about 10 months now, and I have been obsessed with trying to cut down wind and road noise ever since we...

I would take a pretty good guess that this was done by a previous owner. Mine is a mid 2019 model, and Tesla didn't install them up to that point.

It was trickier than I expected. The video stated you have around 15 or so seconds, but it was less than that. The A Pillar is already a tight squeeze, so here is what I ended up doing on the second pillar that made it easier. I wore cut proof gloves, because the bags get really hot when the...

Hi, Of all of the things that I have done for the wind/road noise, the foam filling helped the most followed by adding extra insulating tubing around the top of the driver and passenger side window seals. Here are links to the 2 sizes of foam fill bags I used: 2x #10 size for the A Pillars -...

Hey everyone! I have a 2019 MX Raven. Since purchasing it, I've obsessed over getting all of the road/wind noise and the cosmetic alignment issues fixed myself. (from placing expanding foam bags in the A-pillars to adjusting the door latches to make the door handles line up) The one area that I...