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What would be a bonus, is if we could get a baseline rotor temp (using the same or similar setup) before modding for coolant delete.

I had the second plug made at .005" over. I mounted it using Loctite 640, let it cure 10 hours, and it held 29.5 PSI for two hours. Then I installed it. Yesterday. I hope to be driving it later this week. I'm installing a Rotor Temperature Monitor using a MLX90614 IR temp sensor, and...

I get the sense that you haven't read this thread from the beginning. The coolant leak path is well known: it's the PTFE seal, leaking into the dry side of the coolant manifold, into the reluctor wheel cavity, where the speed sensor is. Through the outer rotor bearing into the stator cavity...

It sure looks as if the REV U units maintain that flow: Here's where that top tube feeds: Flow is from the top, to that hose barb on the bottom left. And, here's what's under that aluminum sheet cover (ignore the shoelaces and inverter): IDK whether they're trying to remove gearbox...

Yes, Revolt's manifold, unlike QC Charge's, does not circulate coolant to the heat transfer section of the gear case. Opinions vary as to whether that gearcase heat transfer section is a critical part of the cooling design.

I didn't find the exact force required to remove the plug, but it popped out promptly using 100 PSI.

@jatguy used ~.0075" (.19mm) and hasn't (yet) suffered casting failure ;) It was considered early on. Problems: An o-ring is a part that has to be able to be serviced. You have to retain the plug in the bore via external means. Staking? Has to be un-staked to service. Do we drill/tap...

I installed the plug yesterday. Press force was ~150 lbs (~68kgs) for half-fit, and over 250 lbs (~113 kgs) for final fit. .003" and a dry fit, leaks badly at 20 PSI leak test. Now, 20 PSI is at least five times what this plug should ever see, but that's not good enough. This was a dry fit...

I dropped off my 6061 roundbar and the manifold and a drawing and a rendering of the plug I wanted made, to my machinist on Tuesday; it's ready for pickup tomorrow morning (yea!). He & I agreed that .003" (~.08mm) interference ought to be plenty on a part this size, and that's what I had him...

As I'm doing this today myself, I will note that if you have a RAV4 EV with the LDU, and your LDU has NO SYMPTOMS or issues, the coolant manifold appears to be able to be R&R'd without removing the LDU from the vehicle, via the right fenderwell. [The LDU is installed "backwards" in the RAV4 EV...

In the Model S, the LDU coolant manifold is right up against the subframe and cannot be replaced without removing the LDU from the subframe. Additionally, if your LDU has any symptoms (noise, fault codes, driving issues, or coolant on the speed sensor) it has to come apart anyway, and I mean...

Anecdotally, the early MS A/C compressors would overcurrent and cause that fuse to fail; dealerships were replacing the DC-DC first, then months later replacing the DC-DC and the A/C compressor, when the fuse failed again. If the A/C fuse fails again, you may be in for replacing the A/C...

See DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

Yeah, the Chenming seal's OD is especially oversize, we've noticed (deform to fit). A solid-ish slug of 6061 isn't going to have nearly the compliance of that stamped steel seal cage.

Yeah, that's a datum I'm looking for as well. 0.2mm interference (~0.008") seems like an awful lot. In our design exercise, I used .0025" (~.06mm) as the interference fit. But this particular metals engineering is something I don't do; I've merely watched engineers I've worked with spec this...

The V2 SCs may need an add'l bit of comm hardware to put CCSx comms on the existing CP line. But that's just speculation.

I see two things while nearing the end of Jan2024: 1) The web page that describes this product continues to mis-label Dexron as "Dextron"; 2) There is now a one-star review of the product (obviously, not of the product) from a frustrated potential customer who cannot obtain any communication...

Both with and without the oil cooling loop are great aftermarket options, and I hope these will make it to production (unlike Tony's battery health monitor for the RAV4 EV, and his Model 3 cells retrofit, "coming soon" projects, which never made it to fruition, though he posted them both as...

1020288-00-A is the installation alignment tool that's supposed to be used when reassembling the charge port. The early charge port for Model S is 1005612-00-(E, G, H, K), through around Mar2016, according to Ingenext. It has a rectangular bolt pattern to mount to the car. After that...

I can only speak to the GEN1 Rear HVJB (2012-late 2013), which has only one HVIL cover reed switch (which itself had a non-insignificant failure rate; see the Tesla SB PDF linked above that mentions it). I wrote a Wiki article for the GEN1 Rear HVJB, which includes several pictures, and I have...

That won't work. I've spent considerable time on the GEN1 stuff -- which is previous to your 2015 and therefore not an exact analogue -- and the AC Compressor and cabin heater HET plugs (the plugs from their harnesses to the DC-DC Converter) have HVIL loopbacks built-in to the connectors, so...

You'd want to go in eyes-wide-open, sure. I am not a Tesla owner -- we sold our Model 3 -- so I have no interest in this extension cord, but at the price they're asking for it -- $550 -- it's possible that it's not just two connectors and some heavy wire. The cable might have either a...

Wires don't get hotter (higher temperature) with increased length, they get hotter with increased current. You're probably thinking of those warnings we get with appliances or tools, that have the wire gauge recommendation charts for extension cords. Household power is usually supplied at a...

Contact cleaner is an excellent tool for removing debris and oils from contacts that are sensitive to minor resistance. Reed switches. Old-fashioned ignition points (remember those?). Stuff where you can't use high contact force yet also can't have a half-ohm extra in the circuit. Or, to...

While yanking up on the forward edge of the seat will do, Tesla has a specific procedure to release those two retainers, to avoid, in their words, "warp[ing] the cushion". Tesla recommends using a trim remover tool (like this) (and not used in the usual way; see instructions below) to push the...

If you read the info at the link . . . they think so . . . It's just wire, and the SC are, again, just wire. There's no technical reason a HVDC extension cord can't be used, at least for the non-liquid-cooled use cases.

I assume serious towers will carry some longer version of this Supercharger-capable "extension cord", for use during the inevitable time they'll have to dance around other vehicles that are charging:

Grease, not oil. The idea is for chaff to remain with the bit tip rather than wanting to migrate elsewhere. At bit break-through, you are using very low bit RPM and removing the bit from the workpiece to clean and re-grease the bit tip very frequently. With low RPM and frequent...

I had the same thought yesterday, and sure enough, Googled "tesla waterless coolant" and wound up here, Thanks! I'd already written the below before I got that far. --- My thought on legacy Tesla LDU rotor shaft leakage: minimize inverter damage and corrosion by removing water as the cooling...

This is not correct. It's a Bussmann FWP-40A14Fa fuse, and only a fuse. It's a high-speed fuse, designed to protect more-sensitive semiconductor circuits. From page 5 of...