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Funny. Had that listing on my radar and picked it up after Tesla sent me the estimate. Seller seems cool; I asked for faster shipping rather than a discounted price and they obliged.

Gotta love know-it-all parts people. Glad I got out of that industry. :rolleyes: 1494175-00-B 1077082-00-C Now I think they're ****ing with me; price for both is the same; $300. I'm wondering if they're just overcharging me for 1077082-00-C. Anybody price 1077082-00-C lately?

Not yet. I changed my service ticket to a parts request ticket; still waiting to hear back from Tesla. Parts are available from Rock Auto, but I’m not familiar with the brands. Rather get an OEM if the price is similar. Stay tuned! Since the part is cheap (<$100 @ Rock Auto) I’d rather install...

Think it'll make more sense with a video.

Update... https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/radiator-replacement.329858/#post-8332464

FYI, you can replace a radiator without having to disconnect the AC lines in a non-heat pump Model 3. Trick is getting the radiator module down and back far enough to get the front edge of the air scoop/top cover away from the bumper. Then, the top cover comes out. All because of this....

If it was an emergency repair or the part was super expensive, 👍. But I don’t need the car, and the part is <$100 on RockAuto and is readily available.

Welp, I'm not playing the lotto this week with that kind of luck.

I guess it depends what ‘like a rock’ means. IMO, there is nothing in an FS that’ll retain its $20k premium. Plus, CT is not expected to be a super low volume vehicle. When non-FS variants are readily available, FS’ will drop by at least that much. Then add a normal depreciation curve. I...

Already did that; yank the tub and under aero panels. Hoses looked good and didn’t see anything obvious. When the pump was running and everything was off, coolant was pouring down the middle of the radiator module. Since the radiator is encapsulated, it’s possible the leak is not in the middle...

Appreciate the comments. Pretty familiar with working on cars, construction of radiators, and realize it is probable the radiator was damaged physically without me knowing. Factoring the distance driven, indirect access to the radiator (compared to traditional cars with more accessible radiators...

That IS me driving the car. 😂 I have another one that has 8.2k miles in 21 years. As mentioned, my commute is super short; ~1700/year.

Car is out of the 4-year warranty, so I wouldn’t expect Tesla to cover the repairs. Possible, but doubt it’s physical damage; my commute is very short (don’t even get on a freeway) and didn’t see/hear anything hit the car on the way to work this morning. Don’t see any damage from the front...

Went to the car after work and noticed a good size puddle. Pulled the under panels off and it looks like the radiator is leaking. Not something I’d expect from a car with 11.3k miles.

Saw this in a movie once. Cybertruck 2.0? 🤔

Dang. Thought this was going to be about a Supercharger station at 'the four corners' in Woodside. 😞

Possible? No, absolutely less. Reservation holders were in a $40/50/70k. Now that they’re $100/120k, no doubt in my mind demand is less. If prices were $60/80/100k at announce, we would have seen not nearly as many people plunk down money for a reservation.

Just got my email yesterday; RN11401. Not interested. Just going to wait for a non-Foundation.

Add me to the list of recipients not wanting a Foundation series. RN11401XXXX

What he said. OP, my ‘23 has the same screen on entry while my ‘20 has the traditional layout. Cause it probably takes more processing power to deal with the new layout. Not uncommon for more advanced hardware to show more advanced features. Speaking about technology in general, not Tesla specific.

Original owner. Don't know if I would call it a "gas guzzler" through; I hardly drive it nowadays.

Yes, cost slides down over time. My '20 was $724 after the 1st year; this year it was $658. If your registration is ~$334, nice! Wish mine were that low.

Which brand did you go with?

My ‘23 RWD is ‘only’ $667.

Not on Ys, but having both colors I can say go white; Tesla's paint is garbage and blue will show imperfections a lot more. Unless you are meticulous with keeping the car clean or plan on paying extra to have the paint protected, bird poop, tree sap, etc. will destroy the paint. Better have a...

IMO, fake engine noises remind me of slow cars with a loud exhaust; the sound is absolutely pointless. E-shifts only slow down the car; if I’m pedal to the metal, I don’t want the car to decelerate and give me a shift or rev limit ‘feel;’ I want maximum acceleration. Again, pointless. I...

I don’t have that issue, so I can’t say this is the solution, but I’m curious.…do you have location settings set to ‘always’ and ‘precise location’ turned on? Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services > Tesla

Faraday cage is basically a chamber that blocks electrical signals. Yup, like that. Since you're using a FOB then yea, you'll either need to keep the FOB away from the car or block its signals while within the car.

OP, Silly question (cause I don't see it stated), are you using a FOB? Cause I'm assuming the car is unlocking since your phone is in proximity.

Just time and distance.

Yes, it’s on my phone. Yup. Trimmed that part out in the first screenshot.

Tesla app is not going to Apple Maps for me. Maybe a setting on your phone. 🤷‍♂️

On the freeway, FSD doesn’t do significantly more than what AP offers. So, not worth it. In town, I find myself being more stressed staying ready to immediately take control than just driving myself. So, not worth it. I’ll only consider it when the car can truly drive itself without people in it.

IMO, there is not enough in the new car to spend the difference. Biggest selling point to me would be the performance and that’s only marginally better. Ventilated seats and a face lift isn’t worth taking a bath on your current car; save your money.

Agreed. If I didn’t have an M3P, I’d be tempted to buy the new one. But since I have one, there isn’t enough in the new one to spend ~$20k to upgrade. I’d rather spend that kind of difference on a Cyberbeast.

Considering a similar two-tone look; stainless on top and matte black on the bottom. Rolling emblem of itself. 🤯 😂

Does your car have USS (Ultra Sonic Sensors)? If not, then Summon is not an option.

2024.8.7 came out 3/25 and I don’t think it has the FSD trial. 2024.3.6 came out 3/27 and 2024.3.10 came out yesterday; both have the trial.

Received the FSD trial after my cars updated to the latest firmware; 2024.3.10 for my ‘20 and 2024.3.6 for my ‘23. Did you get 2024.3.6-newer yet?

Tried FSD with a Tesla loaner several months ago and HATED it; stopped using it after only a couple miles. Latest version is much better. The only I don’t like (so far) is that it gets too close (IMO) to cars and curbs on the passenger’s side.

I didn’t get one…I got 2. 😁 j/p Wait for the latest update; either 2024.3.6 or 2024.3.10. When my cars updated, FSD trial popped right up.

Received the notice for my ‘23 couple days ago and my ‘20 got it last night. Both received FSD when they updated to the latest software; 2024.3.6 for the ‘23 and 2024.3.10 for the ‘20. Curious if someone can delay the trial period by delaying the update. 🤔 ‘20 has Summon while the ‘23 does not...

Just talk to Jesse. M3Ps have an issue with the induction map, it’s got a nasty hole. That’s why they unload at 100mph. Gotta length the magnetic pulse another millisecond and tune the timing, they’ll run 9s.

I’m using the same foam cannon and soap; both good IMO. Pressure washer is from Home Depot. Mine is an older model of this version, but same 1800psi. Just don’t get too close to the paint and it should be fine...

Before… After…

Walmart had a Cricut and vinyl on clearance, so I moved forward a bit with the idea. 😁 I'll get better pics tomorrow.

Counted 22 driving from Sac to San Diego last Sunday on I5.