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i see it n it has nothing about turning off AC only says it 'limits' energy for cabin but no mention if heat or cool or both i'm saying from my personal experience n watching SMT, on the hot day AC compressor goes full blast consuming like 6kwh with range mode on..

ppl buy cars at auctions at any price point with zero history lol nothing new.. its not for everyone tho..

don't think so.. i have range mode on 100% of the time my ac always works i believe range mode only affects cabin heater..

the fans cool condenser, ac system is setup to cool cabin and battery so yeah indirectly u have less efficient battery cooling batteries themselves are cooled by coolant that then goes thru chiller or heater, depends on whats needed, to cool/heat cells

If the car is in ur app u can order parts thru app as normal, i do it all the time for my salvage cars See this awesome thread about how u can get screwed over with clean title :)...

No not normal AC needs outside condenser cooling while NOT in motion (and sometimes in motion too) Most likely ur condenser fans not working... Do u hear them? in front of each front wheel.. When u drive, natural air flow cools them n ur AC works but it will still have issues in very hot...

u probably should replace that sand fuse to current powered one it will require Toolbox to update fuse type

It could just be acceleration shudder, common for S/X Hard to hear on ur clip but ck other youtube videos and see if it matches urs Its not necessarily a sign of worn axles, they all do this to some extent If on light acceleration u hear nothing then it most likely the issue...

Nice thanks for informative post Did u need Toolbox subscription to use that tool?

Big difference for u is if its AP1 or AP2+ Based on ur warranty its AP1 so these are not highly desired...

U can buy used pack for half that price these days so that point is mute... No need for module replacements anymore with such abundance of used packs.. I don't know why ppl still pay Tesla to get new/reman packs.. Little research n leg work will save u lots of money

Yes i do have plenty of car repair experience and 2 salvage teslas fixed plus countless hours of reading n researching But i don't like to judge anyone and steer the thread off topic I answer what is asked OP can do whatever they like with whatever skills they got, its not my concern or...

what software is that? from Tesla or 3rd party? did u figure out if CAN id was correct for isolation? from what i read, i think on older packs like urs you'll need to reset f123 on my newer pack, with fuse at the bottom, the error went away after i dried it keep in mind, inside the pack, BMS is...

Depending on condition of course but i'd say nosecone $5k or less, facelift/ap2+(legacy) maybe up to $10k I've only heard of some RWD vs AWD compatibility issues but it could've been lack of software skills as well Most of the time u can put anything u like with exception of 100kwh into rwd...

Anyone know to what % solar packs get charged?

My statistics professor, back in college days, said it well: If light bulb company would test every single light bulb they'd produce for how many hours it can run, they'd be instantly out of business 😅

Sure i agree But 95 bricks that didn't lose that extra 170mv is even Better :) They all sat for 6 years.. My point was that since one brick is weaker it'll continue to degrade faster...

i would think that maybe gateway change needed? single to dual charger or US to EU change.. not sure why BMS errors showed up but i believe update might not work with some errors..

Well if only one brick out of 96 discharged so much more than it's probably a sign of either u029 or u018 coming...

What auction?

u need to be careful with amounts i believe 5 seater X only has front AC n uses much less, follow ur sticker under hood...

unfortunately, there's almost no products that are made by only one supplier, aka Tesla in this case every business depends on other suppliers but final product is what gets in trouble, just the way it is i see it at my workplace all the time don't blame tesla, they're just end user in this case...

i don't believe we have it MCU1 def doesn't have it, maybe MCU2 does but not 100% sure

someone said tesla has issues with authentication on Windows recently but works ok on Mac...

it takes 5 min to get the car added to the app IF the current owner has the title/registration in their name have them add it n verify or walk away... def sounds like a red flag that the car is not in the app would love to hear a good reason why that is?..

i'd guess temp and SOC, since u can charge faster at lower soc for given temp also depending on ur car year, it might also consider if ur going to V2 or V3 SC... if u getting Max speed then car knows that n pre-conditions accordingly

if 12v battery won't fix it, next theory based on urs n the sound it makes right before it stops, that something is binding or FWD motor is overloading 12v enough to sag the voltage down enough to trigger power off/reset anyhow its easy to test, hook up the multimeter to 12v n watch what...

u can find connectors using free circuit/connector diagrams https://www.te.com/en/product-444046-4.html but make sure its not the sensor itself...

start with f074 error, that sounds like speed sensor error easy to replace, swap it or check wiring n see if it works while ur there check for coolant leak

IAAI is "insurance" auto auction lol Anytime a car goes thru insurance it'll get salvage title, expecting anything different is just naive... If u did manage to get a clean title, consider urself lucky Problem with Teslas, is the separate database for SuC/warranty, they don't follow DMV/title...

U do realize that most ppl drive the their cars n don't follow any charging/balancing habits, besides what car tells them, 80% vs 100% for trips... And how many do u think have issues with not getting to 0%?... very few, otherwise this forum n other interwebs would be blowing up Something is up...

while generally higher voltage can produce better performance due to lower current required, in this case to create magnetic field in the drive unit, that statement is not fully true the 'new' 90kwh pack is also 350v due to 14 modules but it has more cells so its the same capacity tesla actually...

yeah it would be good to log bms data with SMT near that shutdown point to see whats happening normally if imbalance or such happens it should throw an error.. so its strange.. i wonder if maybe fast acceleration caused voltage sag n tripped min V for shutdown...(don't know what it is) does...

yeah i've noticed that not sure why theres whole bunch for model 3 n nothing for legacy S/X also, SMT doesn't have isolation so idk if its hard to decode or nobody cares...

i'd imagine for dry fit to hold coolant u will need a very perfect surfaces like the ones for gears n bearings... but i don't think its needed here, just a touch of rtv n ur good to go system only has like 5psi max...

Sounds like AI needs more training 😂

Was always curious, how does the car determine alignment is off? Anyone know?

Battery pack cases are the same so Tesla sometimes mixes them 75 has 14 modules, 90/100 has 16 100 modules have 2 extra rows of cells Someone posted before that label was wrong Some remans don't even have a label Invoice normally should be correct but if this pack was sent as reman 90 with wrong...

I've pulled off mine without any tools Just have to wiggle it correct way

I've never heard of Tesla officially having different display in the car vs pack size So it's quite possible it's actually 90 pack in 75 shell, that has happened before Best to charge to 100% n see the range or check with SMT Performance of 75 is only 0.1s slower from 90, judging by numbers from...

Welcome. Do look into coolant delete for LDU Just so u ready when warranty ends Totally agree with 5 😅

Elaborate, how so?

yeah for that price for sure my car has manual release in the trunk but not sure about older ones...

if thats the issue then yes but figuring out which one is the key...

with any bms error u can't close contactors so it can't test anything HV related, ie AC/PTC/Bat heater... isolation can happen in any of those, plus LDU... there's also 2 types of isolation modes for battery heater, when it shorts HV to coolant only when its on or when IGBT shorts to ground i...

I haven't heard such a thing but it might be due to certs Few ppl said that if car is disconnected from internet for a while (1-2yrs?..) certs don't update n u won't have connection to anything anymore My rooted MCU hasn't updated since Aug 2022, still rocking Premium connectivity but my certs...

also found this, maybe useful https://github.com/thezim/DBCTools/tree/master/Samples

its def there in 2 places judging by Diag mode, but idk how to figure out ID, maybe i can grab CAN frames n find ones that match my value... project for later lol

nobody really knows what that BMS reset does but cool that u got to try it my MCU is rooted so i have access to diag screen which shows me isolation but i don't know what CAN id it is... in my case when car was leveled water didn't touch anything so isolation went back up to ~3MOhms so it reset...

-U is the coolant delete version sounds like u got lucky with 'new' 90kwh pack but confirm if its 350v, then ur solid on battery n -U LDU if u go that route thats the 2 high priced items in the car only other cheaper solution could be getting a good used LDU n doing DIY coolant delete...