Search results

Good question, it's confusing. This is as far as I got:

There is a liquid-cooled heat sink next to the differential (on the inverter side of the gearbox) to cool the gearbox fluid: Courtesy WeberAuto Explanation of all coolant paths in the drive unit:

That's one option! Grind away the four rivets and replace them with nuts and bolts, otherwise it's impossible to push the puller's "teeth" through the reluctor wheel's slots. Reluctor wheel disassembly procedure (if I understood Dan correctly): Separate the bolts/nuts/jaws from the puller...

Do it yourself:): Tesla LDU

Brown grease but no coolant. It is excess grease from the bearing, because what elso could it be. In that case it seems that you do not yet have a coolant leak. But is the bearing still sufficiently lubricated? Maybe it is, and "they" just put a bit too much grease in it. Who knows. By the way...

Does Tesla allow you to keep the old drive unit? Or will they take it in for a rebuild?

Answers to some of the questions above may be found in this new info directory (a website) dedicated to this LDU, especially the coolant leak problem. It contains links to rebuilds by multiple individuals and also a list of past and current seal longevity experiences, torque specs, etc...

Discussion about this topic can become very long and spread over multiple threads, forums, youtube, etc, making it difficult to find the info you need. @howardc64 and I created an info directory (a website) dedicated to this LDU, especially the coolant leak problem. It contains links to rebuilds...

This guy is on his 13th drive unit in a million miles: OpenInverter Forum Thread

@NewbyMaybe @ZipByICE @amiral_sub: Thanks! Almost nobody, even not Tony Williams from QC Charge (afaik), has an overview of all revisions and its seals.

Check the youtube channel I started about DIY repair of the Tesla Large Drive Unit (DU). This may benefit those who like to fix their car themselves, epecially if it's out of warranty. Here is the link: https://youtube.com/channel/UCIHg1trfQQTYIA88w-ZcCdw Background: The DU in my 2012 Toyota...

Yes! I just opened the Tesla Large Drive Unit from my 2012 Toyota RAV4 EV and I think this is the shim you (and Elon?) were talking about: For those who are interested, I started a Youtube channel for DIY repair of this drive unit: https://youtube.com/channel/UCIHg1trfQQTYIA88w-ZcCdw

Thanks. What silicone sealant do you guys use? I tried sealing that hole with MG Chemicals 832FX flexible epoxy potting compound. It was a bit of a mess, perhaps entertaining to watch: .

For me the catalogue only shows the exterior parts of the Large Drive Unit. No interior parts like the rotor, interior seals, etc. Correct me if I am wrong.

Everybody check out this thread on openinverter.org containing more cases and a replacement seal search effort.

@thewalkz - Thanks for the text and pics! Any updates on the repair? Q1 Yes - I would recommend that (see e.g. QC Charge here: youtube) Q2 Yes - "simply" slip it out, unless it's corroded stuck (like uncle Rich had here) 😬 Q3 There can be damage, can be invisible, like a shorted out circuit in...

The manufacturer is Chenming Seal in Ningbo, China. I found one "report" using this seal on a Drive Unit on openinverter.org here. On AliExpress, it also shows a triple lip TTL profile option which may be better than the CTL profile (the "excluder" lip is usually there to keep debris out, but...

@ajbessinger : Do you mean that coolant can flow from the motor cavity into the inverter cavity along the three AC current conductors shown here?: Courtesy

Why did I guess DC instead of AC: Over a 31-day period, the Tesla app reported a 7% lower yield compared to the utility meter*, which could correspond to an average inverter efficiency of 93%, which seemed plausible. The yield was based on the 5 minute-increment source data downloaded from the...

Can you provide a reference showing that the app displays AC?

Regarding Tesla solar energy products: Is the production of power (kW) and energy (kWh) *as shown in the Tesla app* either DC (before inverter losses) or AC (after inverter losses)? For PV array performance monitoring, I would want DC. For utility bill comparison purposes, I would want AC. My...