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seems like IRS is extending this deadline based on this headline (paywall) - IRS gives auto dealers more time to submit sales reports for tax credits

i took delivery back in feb and don't recall providing my SS#. anyone in the same boat and have gotten their form? how should we expect tesla to get our SS# at this stage?

does anyone know if there's a number or email that I can reach out to about that? I really can't remember if i provided my SS# or not. thanks

i ordered mine back in January and can't remember if it was required to provide SS# during the registration process, nor do i remember providing it. Can someone please remind if that was mandatory or optional? thanks.

bought a hubbell but got a dud so got a bryant instead. i've read that it's actually made by hubbell as well but at half the price https://www.ebay.com/itm/313530976662 it works w/ the faceplate for hubbell too

you're not worried about you/wife not being able to claim the fed tax credit if you made your mom the primary?

@stopcrazypp just got a Bryant 9450FR today and plan on swapping it this weekend. Upon close inspection of it, noticed that only the ground terminal has contact point #3. The two hots and the neutral terminals don't have contact point #3, which is fine b/c it seems only the ground wire may need...

Thank you! do you happen to know if the Hubbell SS701 faceplate fits the Bryant or Cooper/Eaton receptacles? Can they fit in the same metal box as the one used for Hubbell?

is there a specific part number for Legrand? They're also suspiciously cheap. Is this the right one...

Thanks for the illustration. Will give that a try once i get the new hubbell in (already returned the "defective" one). Is it less safe to clamp it between 2 & 3, instead of 1 & 2? In the 14-50 receptacle box, there's a screw in the metal box in which the ground wire is tied to it and then get...

Using the other side of the clamp as in inserting the ground wire into receptacle from the other side?

Thanks everyone for chiming in to help troubleshoot this issue. Will be getting another hubbell and replace the Leviton asap.

But strangely it’s only charging at 32A. I have added a 50A breaker. Thought I’d get 40A no?

Yeah just tried a cheap $14 Leviton and it works! And also removed the ground connection between subpanel and main and it also works. Do I need to keep the ground between main and subpanel for safety?

Update: just connected a 6 awg wire from the subpanel ground bus to the main panel ground…Same problem. Still flashing red T twice

just edit your design to add the 20" and you should get VIN soon. I had the exact same config as yours, changed to 20" on 2/20 at 4pm and got VIN at 6pm. Took delivery 6 days later.

@sqlr2 @JCLJorgenson do the documents (say the MVPA) need to be printed, scanned, and then upload (per CVRP)? or did you just submit the digital copy that you downloaded from tesla and uploaded?

yeah mine is only the right-half of what yours shows. not sure why the cut off the left-half with mine

weirdly, there's nothing to unfold.

Weird. I don't see "title application" under the docs section.

Thanks. Is the temp registration slip the one on the right hand side of the windshield? I notice it doesn't have the name of the registrant on it

since CVRP is CA specific and they're asking for it, i'd imagine it is (or was) available in CA. I also have sample #4. Just don't have any documents where that show the date of delivery or have my signatures on it.

hi @sqlr2 @tfan1210 @JCLJorgenson - looks like y'all had success with applying for CVRP and i have a couple of Qs regarding required documents. Looking at the sample doc page provided by CVRP here - where does one access Sample 5 – Delivery Declaration and Due Bill as shown in page 21 or the...

For those who have successfully applied for the CVRP, wondering if you could provide some guidance on where to access certain required docs. Looking at the sample doc page provided by CVRP here - where does one access Sample 5 – Delivery Declaration and Due Bill as shown in page 21? I couldn't...

for me personally, the difference in ride quality is really minimal. i do encourage you to test drive both back to back if that's a major concern. for me it's not since i've been driving my wife's honda fit or 911. MY is a huge step up as far as comfort goes

@OxBrew @qdeathstar so i connected the subpanel ground bar using some left over 6awg wires to reach the ground wire connected to the water pipe to the water heater. it was kind of hard to reach so i just "hooked" on to it but it didn't work. same "ground loss" error on the MC. (see pics) Is the...

actually someone down the street has a 14-50 outlet and i just tested it and the MC is working fine. So the problem is not w/ the MC or the adapter. It's with the outlet. Given that, is the recommendation from this group still to run an insulated wire from the ground bus in the subpanel to the...

unfortunately don't have a 14-50 outlet for the stove. and i've asked a few neighbors and no one has one either :(

adapter as in the nema 14-50 adapter that tesla sells for $45?

i did exactly that and picked up my car yesterday. it feels sportier for sure but def not a deal breaker. plus it looks much nicer than 19"

just tested it. it has a continuous beep and fluctuates between 0 to 0.4 ohm, but eventually dips close to 0 ohm. is that right? @wwhitney "Unless there's a problem with the EVSE." - i'm using the MC with the 5-15 to my car now and it's working fine. Can I rule out that the problem is with the...

Thanks for clarifying. So sounds like the recommendation from this group is to run an insulated wire from the ground bus in the subpanel to the main/meter neutral junction?

where are you suggesting that i take that reading? in the subpanel? or at the 14-50 receptacle?

@stopcrazypp I have a murray panel but i guess it's the same as Siemen since they bought Murray. you are right, there's no strap connecting the green screw to one of the holes in the neutral bus. @OxBrew @mongo got it. the circled in the attached picture is the "meter neutral junction" correct?

@OxBrew when you say "the conduit is probably a ground path" - you mean the metal conduit that's carrying the 3 black wires from the main to the subpanel is serving as the ground connection between the main and subpanel?

@wwhitney thanks the input and questions. I'll try my best to answer your questions 1. spatial relationship between the main (2nd pic) and the subpanel (1st pic) - no intervening panels. power goes directly from the main to the subpanel (see 1st pic attached with the metal conduit that carries 3...

@stopcrazypp thanks for explaining same vs separate structure. We don't have a detached garage so yes it's the same structure. Yes I don't believe a direct ground connection exists between my main and the subpanel. Here's a picture of the metal conduit (left side) that carries the 3 fattest...

@OxBrew yes this is the same structure. I do not have a detached garage. you mentioned "remove the special screw that electrically connects the netrual bus to the sub panel box" - i'm not quite sure i can find such a screw. is it this green one? it looks like it's connected to the ground bus...

What does it mean to be separate or same structure?

I think I mixed things up earlier. The greyish wire from the outside isn’t tied to the gas pipe. As far as I can tell, it came into the garage and then went behind the wall. I also see a ground wire connected to the water pipe above the water heater (see new pic attached). There’s a vent then...

Thanks y’all for the input so far. I’ve taken a few more pics of the set up. 1st pic is the main panel. It looks like the ground and the neutral are bonded as I see bare wire and white wire connected to the same bus. Is that right? 2nd pic shows two bare wires leaving the box. Left conduit...

I believe the neutral and ground are bonded at main service panel that’s located in the back of the house before coming into the subpanel.

How do I “Check for continuity between ground wire and the ground pin”?

Thanks. Will double check that later on

So to be clear, you’re talking about the adapter that Tesla seller many different versions of eg 14-50, 14-30, 5-15, etc right? If so, how do I test that? Just stick the probes of the multimeter in? To which pins/holes?

Using the hubbell as many recommended

Thanks for your input. Yeah i'll swap out for a GFCI breaker once it arrives. I just have an extra 50amp breaker lying around so wanted to try it out first. Don't quite understand what you mean by miswired 14-50 adapter? I used a multimeter to measure the voltage of the receptacle across...

Still waiting to pick up my car but I just got a 14-50 socket installed today and when i plug in the MC, the T flashes 2x, indicating a "ground loss". I measured the voltage across L1-to-ground, L2-to-ground, L1-to-neutral, and L2-to-neutral - they all read ~120V so no issues there. I looked...

Still waiting to pick up my car but I just got a 14-50 socket installed today and when i plug in the MC, the T flashes 2x, indicating a "ground loss". I read thru this entire thread. Tested the voltage across L1-to-ground, L2-to-ground, L1-to-neutral, and L2-to-neutral - they all read ~120V so...

what's the config? and where about in CA?