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They state that it's reasonable because they probably never had to pay to replace the fuse on older model s. The oldest versions of these batteries has the fuse placed on the top, the newer ones are on the bottom. You have to remove the battery to replace the top mounted fuse, the lower...

Just go to the service center and have the fuse replaced. There is nothing we can do here on this forum over the internet. Tesla doesn't care that the battery was replaced 6 years ago. If you don't want to deal with Tesla then take it to someone who can replace the fuse they aren't expensive...

Wow I can understand why they quit making that.

It was cool to see two high mileage cars but it was a very boring video. Corporate youtube channels shouldn't exist.

I think if you bought the right part you wouldn't have this problem.

If you want the car to stop at a certain amount you have to set it either through the app or in the car. If you want to stop charging because you're ready to leave just tell the car to stop charging. Keep in mind idle fees do occur if you're connected to a supercharger but not charging.

I was under the assumption that all cars came with the J1772 adapter but I know how tesla likes to trim the fat so maybe yours didn't come with one.

I assume this is a J1772 connector. Tesla sells the adapter for J1772 to NACS but you're probably going to go to amazon and buy the cheapest one for sale.

It's usually suspension that keeps tesla from installing a 100kWh battery. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1QgSyLrNimg5wdoxzIzxcXcIZy79Zinq80wdcudn7xg0/edit?usp=sharing

I guess a car with a 1 gallon gas tank is still a car at the end of the day. Maybe brain is on to something the other pump is bad? Do you have scanmytesla? Does service mode show any errors related to pumps?

I think you might want to fix your battery first and then worry about the pump later.

For $250 you could have gotten ramps and a 10mm wrench to do it yourself.

Hopefully just that filter is loose.

Tesla is awful when you have problems and great when you don't! Even worse if you can't troubleshoot on your own.

The first two codes are for the active shutters in the bumper. They aren't related to your charging problem but should be addressed at some time. I don't know much about charger problems but I assume you are trying to AC charge. Can you supercharge?

They ship it in a 3d printed case? That's cool maybe a little excessive.

Even after getting the eMMC replaced sometimes when I get in my car the screen will be black or the whole thing reboots. It doesn't bother me because I can still drive the car while it is booting. I do have energy saving turned on where it puts the MCU into a deeper sleep mode while the car is...

You have to keep the door felt clean or trapped dirt will cause a scratch. I always stop and clean the felt if I hear anything catching on the window. I realize this isn't normal for car ownership but I do think it's normal for frameless windows.

If you regularly use the nav I would really recommend you get the mcu2. But you probably know that because you did it with the P85D.

Oh that explains it I didn't know that would trigger an alert.

What is your alert about?

Hah you bought it! I'd just keep making threads it's no big deal.

I can't tell you what offset to buy but that wheel only has one 5x120mm in 19" and two in 20". I would really try to find a wheel with a 64.1mm center bore, dealing with hub rings gets old after a while and it's not a perfect substitute for wheels that actually fit right to start with.

As long as both car and phone are connected to the internet the "start" button in the app will allow you or anyone else to drive the car. When you or whoever is driving the car presses the park button on the shifter stalk the remote start process will have to be started again before the car can...

I learned something new today. It's really designed for temporary access to drive your car or for someone to bail you out if you lost your key and they have access to your tesla account.

2013 doesn't have phone as a key functionailty. You will still have to carry the fob to drive the car.

If you move the steering wheel yourself it will disengage autopilot. If you want to change lanes while autopilot is engaged just move the turn signal in the direction of the lane you want to go, the car will move itself. I'm still on MCU1 with no intention of spending the money for MCU2. It...

I'm surprised you sat there for 2 hours, charging is very slow up top as you know. I highly doubt you're going to improve the health of the battery by charging it in any special way. It is what it is and it's an "old" out of warranty battery. I thought you wanted this car for FUSC transfer...

I wasn't nearly this lucky with my MCU1 sd card replacement. It started with not being able to update the map, it would download most of the map and then hang. I tried to replace the SD card myself, first I tried to direct copy my original SD card to the new but the original was so damaged it...

I assume it's too late but having scan my tesla to read battery information is a whole lot more helpful than 100% charge range. CAC imbalance really tells you what's going on with the battery. Also did you look at the battery sticker in the front passenger wheel well? That's going to tell you...

Being that it is a S60 do you know for sure that the car can supercharge? I thought it was an option on lower KWh cars to bring the price down. Your car may also have dual chargers so you could L2 charge at 80amps.

If you're stupid about it sure it can happen.

No arguements here. If I couldn't do most of the work myself and had to rely on the service center for everything I wouldn't have bought my old S. What size wheels do you have? I assume you have 21" wheels. I'm not defending tesla here but a big wheel is going to be delicate. I've noticed...

Mine did as well. I didn't think much of it at the time but when I read that @Gtech said it was a bad sign I got a little disappointed.

Adjusting those cam bolts also adjusts toe. Most cars are like this in the rear, there is only one adjustment which affects both camber and toe. I would rather have my toe set correctly and live with the camber.

Lower control arms if I had to point at something. Honestly though yes the camber isn't ideal for long tire life it doesn't mean everything. Toe will kill a tire even worse.

Now is a good time to verify your cooling louvers are working. There are two in front of your condensors and two behind the louvers that direct air flow to the radiator.

I've seen all the videos and diagrams on ldu coolant bypasses. I've done the bypass that works for me. Remember these were $130k cars when new. The original client base wouldn't care about the cost of a new LDU. They would pay whatever it cost and not care. Only now that these cars are...

You mean the same coolant that came from the heatsoaked rotor? The external tube is return coolant from the rotor, not a fresh coolant feed. You can buy coolant bypass plates that retain the external tube if it really bothers you to have it.

Everyone drives these cars spiritedly, you're no different. Good deals on used LDUs don't exist. The only reason cheap ones exist is because they're broken. Everyone wants one for just the same reason you do, to convert an old car. As for the heatsoak problem everyone likes to talk about it...

All LDUs have the same design so all will fail eventually. Don't look at this as "well my car is working fine I'll worry about it later." Now is the time to decide what you want to do. Do the proactive modification or wait until failure to buy a new LDU. The motor will not seize, the first...

Do you know your current camber angle? Where you given a spec sheet showing before and after alignment values?

A regular USB stick won't survive long being constantly written to. I would get an SSD like mentioned above. A M.2 SSD and a USB 3.0 enclosure can be had for a decent price and will be very robust against heat and write cycles. https://a.co/d/664Ben8

That's what smart air suspension does, it automatically raises your car when you get to locations you have set to raise the suspension. I assume your car doesn't have that. Or just don't pull into the parking spot so far that your contact the curb.

2015 means the warranty has expired which is weird that he was alerted so late. I wish I could help you with getting the toolbox working. I have a MCU1 car so I'm excited to see the process. Also I assume your fuse is on the bottom of the battery and not the top?

This should be in your signature. I swear you post 5 times a day about your U LDU.

Why are you concerned? You already have the U revision LDU.

Brings me back to a little more than a year ago when I got my S. I rode a bus 6 hours to Florida to get the car only to show up and realize the seller (dealer) didn't have the car in a tesla account. I had no idea going in to a tesla purchase that you had to prove to tesla that you were the...

I drove a few months with the alert on. The only thing that made me get it fixed was my battery coolant heater having isolation faults so I had both replaced at the same time.

Water jacket would refer to #1 in this diagram.