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Ah I understand what you are asking better now. It took about 5-10 seconds or less for the rate to reach a charge level that was unusual, and then another 30-45 seconds before all the issues started and codes appeared. I have started checking the charge rate (especially if it is a charger I have...

It was several hours, perhaps 7-8, did a 100 mile drive beforehand

I tried out the same supercharger (SC) I typically use yesterday and had no problems. This makes me think that specific SC was defective and caused the problem. My typical SC only went to about 150-160mi/hr, however the defective one went to well over 300mi/hr before the code triggered IIRC. I...

I used toolbox 2.1. You can access "Advanced UDS" and reset by specific modules. I cannot comment on toolbox 3 since I have not messed with it yet (since my car does not use it), but I have heard that toolbox 3 is more restrictive. You might be right on that brainhouston- I too was wondering...

Update- I did a hard ECM reset for the BMS and CHG systems. After I did this I was able to open the charge door and charge the car. It is currently on a "slow" 220/240v charger and appears to be charging. I will check back periodically to make sure it is actually gaining charge and not just...

I can't find anything for sale that shows contactors that have four wires for each B+ and B-. All the ones I see have only one connector for both contactors (and two wires on each contactor). I wonder if this part is not made anymore- that would be a real problem.

I found a wiring diagram and can confirm it is those yellow top pieces. I forgot to add mine is GEN1 and has both master and slaver chargers (master is the box where the wires go into the contactors, slave has no plugs for J1 and J3 on the picture. They don't appear to be serviceable, so I will...

Hey all- I have been driving my model S frequently since fixing it up (see previous posts on battery and drive unit fiascos). Everything has been great until today, when I attempted to use a supercharger (a different location than what I typically use). I plugged the charger in and everything...

Hey all, I have not yet seen a dedicated thread regarding isolation resistance of drive units (in my particular case, the large drive unit). I have been assessing the coolant failed large drive unit from my 2012 Model S and it has about 5.7 mega ohm when the leads are connected to the case and...

Also, I thought of a different solution to the sensor wire issue, but unfortunately I thought of it after I closed the pack. One can solder a long wire to the sensor wire end and then attach that wire to the end of the respective brick the wire goes to. The reason to do this is because at the...

I did not have to clear any, they resolved on their own. Will update on the car as needed.

Update- the car is working! I spent hours and many tubes of gasket sealing every possible entry for water. It was difficult to find a way to reliably pressure test the pack, so I just sealed everything. The front alignment bolt may have been where water previously got in because it was wet...

Thanks for the advice. I did my best to check over everything, and all else looked okay. Voltages were within .1v of each other (all modules were 22.9v or 23v, the car was at about 61% charge when the battery was pulled), I tested the coolant connections with 1) just coolant in there and 2) some...

I believe I found the the problem (it might be more accurate to say "a" problem, depending on the condition of the rest of the modules). brainhouston was exactly right, very impressive (you have pointed out correct solutions for 2/2 significant problems I have been having with this car, thank...

Found the positions: Will pull 7 and 10 to see if the bottom wires are loose, since that is theorized to be the problem

It doesn't look like it was the fuse cover, it was dry in there. EG also put so much gasket around it, it took a long time to even clear the material. There was heavy condensation on all the aluminum coolant pipes in the pent house, there was also water around the quick release coolant ports. I...

A few more pictures:

Got the battery out last night. Whether the hulk test worked or not, I definitely had to pull hard to get the battery out when it was on wheels because I forgot to pull out the rubber mat! I do not have any special equipment or lifts, this is doable with basic equipment. I got the penthouse off...

That would be much better than having to go through modules or worse! Also, as a completely crude but legitimate test (I am used to working on ICE cars), I grabbed the tesla with both hands and shook the car at various angles, and it looks like the error codes changed! Maybe that wire is...

I did the subtractions, and it does look like the upper right reading on module 10 is different from the others (.014v, whereas the other highest is .009v lost from May 5 to May 25). I am still not convinced this is a significant enough problem to cause all these codes, but it makes me think a...

I will send pictures of the battery once I remove it. Interested to see what is in there too. It likely is an older battery, but let's see once I get it off. That is an interesting take. Are you thinking that all of these codes are being caused by sense wire(s) being loose? I was concerned...

That is unfortunate, sounds like the battery will be coming off then ... And thanks for taking a look, I was actually hoping you would see it, I was just looking through your thread on the water ingress situation that you fixed.

Making this thread as part 2 to the saga of getting my model S to work. The drive unit is properly synced (Model S Rooted v11.0 2022.8.10.5 drive unit replacement problems), however now there are now battery issues. I was told there were no battery issues before the drive unit died by the...

One more thing to add, I was able to confirm that the car is in fact no longer rooted. Again, I don't know how exactly the car became unrooted (it possibly was from something I did), but I recall the root no longer being recognized after I removed and cleaned the ground studs on the drive rails...

I have reached a conclusion for this thread. To close all the ends: -Electrified garage never got back to me, I did not bother calling them back, they were not very helpful -GitHub scripts and all the other approaches mentioned above were unsuccessful, even with assistance from one of the script...

Because that is the rooter's remote view of the car. If I look at the actual data on the car when in developer/factory mode, I do see parameters when the drive rail is on. Also, brief update. I have tried several iterations of code from Github, so far no success. At one point I did install an...

KyleDay, would you mind taking a look at my post? The information you gave is helpful, and it makes me think I am going through the exact same problem. Here is the thread: Model S Rooted v11.0 2022.8.10.5 drive unit replacement problems - additionally, I have seen some scripts on GitHub for...

I am not an engineer, so someone will have to check the work here, but from a quick lookup I came to this: "According to the Tesla Model S 2012 specifications, the motor has an efficiency of around 90% at 25°C (77°F). At higher temperatures, the efficiency of the motor decreases due to the...

That is interesting to see, especially with where the thermal distribution actually is on the rotor. I was thinking of putting a simple air pump that will blow air into the cavity on mine, or even just closing the far end of the metal tube on the the coolant tube/install a wider tube with a...

Check parts yards, Ebay, facebook marketplace and other online sources, they usually have something. The front rim is not safe, it will cause damage to other parts of the car and possibly others when it fails completely

Has any consideration been given for the temperature differential to the squirrel cage style rotor? I believe the rotor is all metal, so it can take extra heat, however you will lose some performance once you pass 100 Celsius due to I2R effects. I suspect these features will be most pronounced...

I have a car in a comparable situation. Going through the rooter is the best bet. You can try some of the obvious things like putting it into service mode and requesting an update, but I highly doubt it will work.

Here are some photos

It's a list of actions and what you can see when you are in factory mode/developer mode, I will post a pic. Lots of helpful info for diagnostics

I will once I make enough posts. Also, I recall that the root could be tracked on a car ccitesla site, and it would always sync up there until recently (this is probably what electrified garage sees). I remember that the sync stopped showing up days before I messed with any of the software. Now...

Thanks again for the information, it is really helpful having another perspective. I was going to post other things/info that I have not yet seen on this forum, so that should be no problem. Would it be too much to ask to have LayZ look at this thread in the meantime? Not sure if we can post...

Quick update- I was able to call the rooter (electrified garage), and they stated that for whatever unknown reason the car was no longer rooted and they did not have remote access anymore. We have no idea why the car is not showing up as rooted anymore, however they did say that even if they did...

Thanks for the reply, I will ask the original rooter and will report back (I will report back here whatever the final solution is, if I can find one). Was your rooter able to redeploy the software remotely? Additionally, I wouldn't think Tesla would touch the car given the root, but I will...

This is my first post, doing this as a way to hopefully find a solution and help others who may be in a similar situation. I bought a 2012 Model S, rooted to v11.0 2022.8.10.5, with a failed drive unit (coolant flooded). I have replaced the drive unit with a working replacement (from a 2018...