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thanks for confirming my understanding. Yes, I was definitely going to change the battery, but since it happened on thanksgiving, I had to limp along for a few days. Tesla replaced it for $125 onsite, which probably is barely break even for them.

Thanks. I think so far no one has died over this which is great news, but I'm sure there have already been multiple non fatal accidents due to this. I had one, ultimately it was my fault for being too tired to realize that AP had not fully engaged and only had TACC and not autosteer. My brain...

Something else, just to point out how much the current state is a mess: This picture showing single pull vs double pull, well, guess what, this isn't there on my car. I have an M3 APv2 with HW3 and FSD beta the last branch. There is no such option. So I think you get my point: having such...

And you just explained why it's even more confusing. It's not quite like having a config option on whether the steering wheel turns the car right when you turn it left, but come on, for crucial controls like this, they need to really work the same every time without thinking. There are very old...

Yeah, this, seriously. FFS, I'm an airplane pilot, I'm an engineer, I'm really not a moron, I understand all states and their transitions, and yet at times I don't really know what mode I'm in anymore or get confused by realizing I'm not in the mode I thought I was in. It's rare, but each time...

Ok, thanks for this thread, I now know not to use the lithium battery. Can someone weigh in on replacement 12V batteries for 2018 M3: OEM or 3rd party "group 51r" ok? and let me know which replacement 12V lead acid battery is a good replacement when the main one dies? or is the same exact oem...

I already saw this thread which tells me not to buy the Ohmu lithium battery https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/update-on-replacing-oem-12v-lead-acid-battery-with-lithium.313930/page-2 and Q1: My battery is almost 5 years old, so I understand it went past its expected life. Not sure if...

In the ways that I can, which aren't a lot. The least tech support person I talked to said he agreed with everything I said, had heard it before, and that more people need to report it for Tesla to prioritize this.

I already explained how the 4 indications are really only 1 you cannot say you didn't know about, the audio tones, but they do not adequately inform of all status changes, including autothrottle saying on when auto steering gets turned off. It's also too easy to engage auto throttle without...

1) 2) yes but if you're paying attention outside of the car, you're not looking at those two. 3) the tones are not always clear and do not tell you all cases like autosteer turned off but distance keeping turned on still 4) steering wheel harder, yes and no, it can be a clue, but if you're...

that's mostly what I was asking for, but didn't make it clear enough that I was proposing an actual spoken voice message, not a beep that you have to remember what beep means what. and yes, I know some users will hate actual voice messages, and I'm fine if they are off by default as long as they...

looks like you didn't read my post 1) more beeps is not more better, and after a whlie they just add to confusion. I advocated for optional audible messages. Yes, some will be annoyed by them, they can be off by default 2) blue steering wheel icon is too small and not in my field of view. It has...

As I have already written, Tesla could easily make a charger/battery-less powerwall that would have the electronics but no extra batteries. I'm not a hardware engineer, but I'm guessing such a device could be made in the range of $1000, even with a manual transfer switch and a 50A amperage limit...

Well, if that helps, I have one for sale still (from my old car) PM me if you'd like to discuss, I got a very nice one done with all the bells and whistles, but I'm not sure if it would match the color of your car.

If someone can help me push this to Elon/tesla or whatever best channels outside of reporting it to tesla tech support who told me they agreed and had gotten people asking for the same, that would be appreciated: I'm a pilot, I know about automation in planes and/or the issue of two pilots...

Please stop replying on this thread, we're trying to close it and I'm trying to post the last message with my solution: The other thread has more info, but you can find the solution I came up with on this page...

The other thread has more info, but you can find the solution I came up with on this page: http://marc.merlins.org/perso/electronics/post_2019-12-01_Using-a-Tesla-Model-3-as-Emergency-Power-Source-In-Case-of-Grid-Failure.html as well as a discussion that starts after my solution on page #3...

Just found this thread, I had my own thread here: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/how-many-amps-can-you-get-from-the-12v-system-for-emergency-situations.178079/ I ended up writing my solution here...

1) no, I have not tested this for multiple days until the battery is near empty. If you use camper mode to keep the car awake, it's supposed to self shutoff until the battery reaches 20%, but I didn't test it 2) in your case, if i's for frequent use, I honestly recommend a powerwall instead, or...

Yeah, I couldn't find good info on that. However my main concern is you'd be constantly discharging the battery while the car is running and it'd be constantly trying to charge it. As long as the charging system stays on all the time, current should pass through and you should be fine. But there...

My guess is that you should be fine. I'm pretty sure there is some circuit between the DC-DC bar and the standby battery and therefore you can't just pull a bunch of amps, but 8A should be fine while the car is awake. The car will tell you if the standby 12V battery is dipping too low (although...

Fair point. I made sure the inverter ground was not connected to the negative. I was worried about the DC-DC positive shorting to the chassis anywhere, so I connected it directly to the inverter and taped it carefully :)

There is indeed no right answer on the resistor. You want it as big as possible to slow down the current, but not too big that the relay won't close. This is totally specific to your inverter in your relay, That said, 100 ohms is probably a good place to start (I initially had 1 Ohm and it...

err, isn't it exactly what I'm doing? :)

Inverters have a big capacitor on the 12V side. Capacitors can take mostly infinite current (1000A or more, whatever your wire will allow). This will cause a massive spark every time you connect to a battery. The battery does not care, but the DC-DC in the car does, and it will shut down. So...

Ok, since I can't edit the first message, and my solution is now hidden in the middle of the thread, I'll post it here again: Marc's Blog: electronics - Using a Tesla Model 3 as Emergency Power Source In Case of Grid Failure

I feel ignored :) First, 10 messages to tell me that the DC system cannot be bidirectional when it's the AC system that isn't, and then I wrote twice already that you'd need a battery-less powerwall at home. Powerwalls use 400V-ish, so clearly those inverters exist and are as common as...

Please don't get things mixed up. I am not talking about AC charging, please re-read what I wrote. I am talking about DC charging which can now be done at 250KW, which at 400V is 625Amps peak (it used to be 400A peak, but that was raised recently). I'm surprised that they have enough diodes to...

Ok, fair enough, thanks.

Just to be super clear, are you sure the diodes are on the 400A DC bar? You need some big ass diodes for 400A, and doesn't the video say that the DC current can flow backwards for pre-heating the system when you are driving to a supercharger? Actually, sorry, 250kW for the new superchargers is...

I understand the car cannot generate and output AC, but the DC can be run backwards, can it not? If so, as I wrote earlier, you could get DC from the charge port, and plug that into a battery less powerwall that would convert that DC back into AC and sync up with the AC from your house. Or am I...

you don't need a two way inverter, as long as you can get DC out of it from the charge port, that's enough to plug into some battery-less powerwall and do V2G

Are you sure? Tesla poised to unlock vehicle-to-grid abilities with 'bi-directional' charging systems says "There's logic to allow DC to flow out the battery pack. So you can supply an external grid-tie invertor with that and let it do the rest of the magic. Making it part of the HPWC would make...

You can easily run a 120/240V extension cord out of the door with the door closed. My car is in my garage though, so I don't care either way :)

You summarized correctly, you can only get 200A from under the seat, the frunk battery is definitely behind a low amp charge controller and should not be used for anything more than a few (<5) amps for any extended amount of time. As for wiring, I put the inverter in front of the right...

do you know what fuse it's connected to? how many amps? by connecting to the DC-DC under the rear seats, you get 200A :) Marc's Blog: electronics - Using a Tesla Model 3 as Emergency Power Source In Case of Grid Failure

Nice build, you don't screw around :) Given that I may very well never actually use my build (i.e. a real half or multi day power outage), I didn't work too hard on mine past what I posted, but about the resistor, I found out that my inverter, would sometimes charge too quickly even with the...

Correct, that's why my system is overbuilt, but the question was about overheating over time. Transient load over a few seconds won't cause significant heating as you know :)

The tesla DC-DC does not have a fuse that blows, it's a self resetable circuit. I'm not sure how many times it will self reset, but I'm assuming a fair amount. Putting a fuse in front is fine, as long as you have a stack. Given that the system is rated for 200A, you can put 4 of those fuses in...

To answer your questions: 1) I imrproved the wiring to reduce the voltage drop 2) yes, there is a loss of efficiency 3) no, I didn't calculate it end to end, nor do I care :) This is not a design for long term use, but emergency use 4) I ran my fridge and a 100W light bulb for multiple hours to...

You should be fine as long as you have a fast blow fuse and the car is a slow blow fuse (which is likely true).

It shuts down at the same time than the 200A DC-DC system, so you have to keep the car awake with sentry mode or camper mode or something like htat.

I'm not sure you can even pull 6A full time from the model 3 battery, I didn't measure carefully, but I believe the battery recharging system isn't even meant to provide that much power. You'll get more power (10A+) from the cigarette lighter adapter. Unkel, ok, model S, sure. It's totally...

OMG, no you cannot. Please read the thread, this has already been answered.

That's what I've read, and I've gotten 120A from it in a test, so I'm willing to believe it'll do around 200A

which fuse are you referring to? The DC-DC converter is supposed to output 200A (not sure if that's continuous) and definitely does not have a 50A fuse, I've drawn 120A from it already. I'm talking about a model 3. I'm not sure which car you're talking about and where the nose cone connector...

A few years later, I repeated Matt's "excellent idea" of tracking a stock non performance model 3 with aero wheels (really it's not, it's stupid, but it was fun to try anyway): 4 laps with my Model 3 at Laguna Seca, 2 1.55 laps with toasted brakes...

Oh, thanks Oh, thanks for that warning. To be honest, I wasn't seriously considering backfeeding my house due to how many sharp edges there are in doing this, but very interesting to know that inverters would do a weird things like putting neutral at a different potential than ground. Is that...

it is not directly connected to the battery in one direction (it can feed it via a trickle charger), but battery cannot feed back to the points I connected to. I have verified voltage drops to 0 when the car shuts down, which is good even that I would not want my inverter to ever be powered by...

If you are connected to the DC-DC system, you aren't connected to the battery (which is good). When the car goes to sleep, the DC-DC feed under the back seat, turns off. My solution works as long as you can keep the DC-DC on, which can be done with camper mode or other ways. I'm just interested...