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As stated above and shown with me posting my new 2024 Model Y (Tesla Spy info) it appears (My Opinion) that Tesla is soft locking the battery to have a Nominal Full pack of 79.6 ish out of the factory. It's also my opinion that it's not a real concern because I think it's by design (I didn't see...

Absolutely agree with you, at least then didn't try to have adjustable suspension like the Model S that's just a horrible issue. When I first got a Tesla Model S back in 2016 I think the tires lasted about 10k and they were done.

On my older 2021 Model Y I had both rears and I did the adjustment on my front left after I went through the first set of OEM Tires. After I did the adjustments I road over 20k on a set of tires and had very little wear in the insides. I took the car to a local guy here and we worked together to...

https://service.tesla.com/docs/ModelY/ServiceManual/en-us/GUID-F4CC6A2F-D7BE-4F76-ADED-F678050FC618.html

I found that with most car's have too much camber in the tires and it just wears them out way too fast.

You can do the Rear Camber on the Model Y, I've attached how to do the alignment on the Model Y.

CoolBuddy, The "3 mile Range lost" isn't really a lost but a BMS Calculation issue I suspect if you were to pull Tesla Spy data like I'm showing that your numbers would be about the same. Unless you need to charge to 100% for a trip I don't suggest trying to do it just to see what the car is...

Yes if I changes my wheels to 19" it takes a restart but the range goes to 302 or so. Does TeslaFI have access to Nominal Full Pack within the API or is just pulling Rated Range. If they do have access to it then that would be a way better way to show it's users how they stand with other cars...

Here are the cars closes to mine in Tesla Fi right now. The one car showing 356.24 looks to be hold over data from what appears to be a Model S and the data hasn't been removed from Tesla Fi yet.

My 2024 LR with 20" is showing 284 mile Rated. A few posts back I put in what Tesla Spy was showing. Currently I'm not seeing any Model Y's with a Rated Range of 294 miles or close on Tesla FI.

My car isn't the Performance it's the LR with 20" wheels, also I think that the Performance is at 279 Range now.

Tom, As stated above it depends on the wheels a lot and also Tesla did an EPA update to the 2024 Model Y's to more accurately show real world mileage. Having had a 2021 and now a 2024 Model Y I can tell you that you will be getting the same milage as your friend if you drove side by side until...

In TeslaFi when looking at Battery Report is allows the user to look at all the Fleet Battery Data that it's using to compare your car with others. When comparing the 70 plus other cars that I can see with the same range (1800 ish) there is two distinct ranges that all the cars fall into. About...

CoolBuddy, I don't believe this is an issue with the BMS but actually is intended. On TelsaFi i'm seeing over 50 different 2024 Model Y's showing only two different Range Brackets.

I hooked up Tesla Spy the other day and it appears that Tesla started the BMS off with a 79.6 Nominal Full Pack. I understand the Energy buffer of 3.58 but this Nominal Full Pack is low for a car just off the line. This would also make since because of all the TeslaFi data showing all the 2024...

For this month I've Avg'd 250 which is about 95% rated. When looking on Telsafi all the newer Model Y's that i'm assuming are 19" version they are showing about 303 miles.

With this new 2024 Model Y they are pretty close to the same now. It's really hard to believe but with the Newer EPA and it having 284 with 20" wheels it's almost spot on. Both my other Tesla's in the past was like trying to do mental gymnastics to figure out mileage if you were getting close...

It seems that all the newer 2024 Model Y's with 20 inch wheels are showing 283-285 full charge. I traded in my 2021 Model Y and I will say although the range in TeslaFi shows lower it's 100% on point. I've been driving for a little over 1500 miles and my drive efficiency is sitting at 99% for...

This is caused by too much neg chamber in the tires, the tire shop should have taken some of it out when they noticed this. On my previous Model Y I had the same issue on the Model Y max is -2.0 pref is like -1.0.

I just trading my Jan 2021 Build Model Y in for a 2024 and the suspension is night and day. Still a bit stiff but not like a truck anymore. Heated Steering wheel and the center console with much better wireless cell phone charging. The biggest thing is the reduction of road noise and no more...

I agree, having had a Model S, then a 2021 Model Y and now having the 2024 Model Y the steering is a bit tighter. Only have 300 miles on it so was going to let the tires settle in then have my local guys look at the alignment. On the 2021 they fixed the chamber on it and took a bunch of rear toe...

I'm betting on them pushing an update to lower the exposure or color contrast to lower the impact. The new designed blinker would be the perfect fix but I can't see them replacing 80K plus blinkers.

By the look of this chart this is most likely the cause of the BMS being out of sync. Set it at 90% or 80% and call it done. All those short charging sessions will most likely play a factor in the BMS.

If it's only happening while AC charging then it sounds like your onboard charger is either heating up or has an internal loose connection and causing it to fault out.

I had a Model S until recently and when I got it had the same problem. I spent a few minutes adjusted the hatch rubber snubs by sliding a piece of paper and closing it and pulling the paper out looking for enough tension to hold the paper.. After about 6 or so times the pads all touched and the...

Coming from driving a Model S for the past few years, the Model Y has heavy steering. Not sure if it's a combo of things that cause it, smaller steering wheel, tire sizes, camber or software. Time will tell by watching the tire wear and pattern.

You didn't need to replace your 12v after I met you at Rocky Mount when it went dead? It's still holding out after it went dead, I thought for sure it wouldn't come back.

I would say do the claim always, then have it appraised for repair. WD40 will take rubber off but I wouldn't do it until you have a body shop waiting on parts. Do the WD40 so you don't have the unsightly mess while waiting on repair.

I suspect all of us with MCU1, HW2.5 will be waiting awhile for the next update. For the most part what I'm seeing on Teslafi only the MCU2 / HW2.5 and above have received the newer FW update past 40.2.*

The seals are on a normal DU when they receive it for replacement. It's part of the DU so it's covered, if you have time to argue the point then do so. Also if they say it's not part of the DU warranty then any dealership of good rep can replace them for way cheaper. Tell them to provide the...

I still have a few darker areas but a couple of more times of me moving the light around will put it like new. In the areas I was focused on from the beginning I see no yellowing or dark areas.

UCMNDD, this has been a great DIY for those of us that live a bit away from our SC and don't wish to loose the day or two of work to drive the cars to the SC. As people here already said the light has to be really close and for me the LEDs needed to be directly in front of the area I'm treating...

I don't think that the MCU1 will ever be upgraded to the MCU2 it's not cost effective for Tesla to do it. As for the warranty of the Battery and DU, the MS will expire in 4 years and the M3 you will not have 120k in four years unless you drive crazy a lot. So the unlimited factor should be...

It's always hard to give advice on something like this. I would shy away from the MS, if you are comparing it with a M3 in that the range will be a lot lower in 5 years of usage and repair cost of the MS is going to start adding into the budget on a car with over 100k by then. As for choosing...

The car uses a DC to DC converter to charge the 12v, converts the HV battery down to 12v. It does sound like you have an issue with it.

No this is a Dec 2017 S75

Sorka this was from last year but you can see I was at about 1 mile of charge left. I was using TM-Spy and as you know it adds the 4kWh buffer into its numbers. The voltages were at about 3.1 for the most part, I need to do this again and see what they look like now.

Cybergates, I current have an inside patch on 3 of my 4 ties and one tire has 2 patches, these tires aren't anything special. The so called foam is cheap and easy to cut away. Once they do the patch they can use just a bit of the same adhesive that they did the patch with to stick the foam back...

Lasttoy, Good to see you made it home. It was nice talking with you for a few minutes and the wife thought your dog was awesome.

DJ how many minutes did it charge while at 96%? Also what was your CHARGE Rate at during those times. I'm wondering because I normally see a CHARGE Rate of 6 once it hits 100% then it will click down .1 for each minute it stays at 100% until it gets around CHARGE Rate of 2 then clicks charge...

They have a plastic cap over the lug nut, just lightly pry it off with a small screw driver. Once you do it a few times the covers come off really easy. The lug nut is a standard size on most cars.

This almost seems like a wire harness problem. Maybe it is grounding out to the frame. I would ask your SC if they ran the wire harness for grounding or shorting.

Dec 2017 S75, 26k 213 mi. @90%

I can't remember if mine was 130 or 150 but I installed mine myself, maybe they are quoting it installed. I did mine in Jan 2018.

DJras, I'm not sure what the 276 Wh/mile is, but if you add the 4 kWh into the pack does that change your number to 295 Wh/mile? Edit, I did the math if you add in the 4 kWh you will so called use the 295 Wh/mil

DJRas, I use TM-Spy which does include the buffer in it. I've driven my car down to Zero displayed range and TM-Spy shows 4kWh. Using the Cars display and Rated range it does include the reserved range at the start then it curves it out as it goes down in range.

The math works to about +- .2 of the total pack. The problem with the Energy Meter in the car (my belief) is that it's doing a calulation at that moment and making the numbers work. What I mean is that from a basic point, if it says projected is 100 miles and you've averaged 275 Wh/mile you...

A few software upgrades ago I started to receive this message when pulling into my garage. After about two or three software updates I no long recieve the message. I talked with my SC about it a few times while it was happing and they agreed that it was a FW issue. I haven't had it show up yet...

From my understanding and what I see the Energy Graph is only the usable. This is where some of the confusion comes in with people who use TM-Spy because it shows the 4kWh buffer and it messes up the graph. So when the car reads zero TM-Spy will show about 5% depending on the pack size.