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Ok, I pulled my harness out of the ECU to evaluate and fix and was able to get this to work! Unfortunately the version of the Hansshow harness I have didn’t have the 2 small wires coming from the connector (as shown above in the photo) but instead had empty slots. I was able to rig it together...

Wow, thank you so much for posting this fix that you discovered! I’d like to do this to my setup, but I’m a little confused . When you say you snipped the other side of the harness, do you mean you attached new wires from the 2 short, unused cables in your first photo (on the “passenger side B”...

This is a cheap solution that has worked really well for me to block glare when driving right before sunset. You can easily stash it in the space between the driver seat and center console: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07964LTYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Aio6Fb1FMS3MA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Here's what they sent me re: instructions

I just received this upgrade kit from Hansshow (version E) and was planning on doing a DIY install. After looking at the instructions and following the thread here on TMC, I decided it's too daunting for me. If anyone's interested in taking this off my hands, please feel free to DM me or...

I just received version E from Hansshow and after looking at what it'll take to install this, I've decided it's too daunting for me. If anyone's interested in taking this off my hands, please feel free to DM me or email me at [email protected]. I'm in the SF Bay Area.

I have a hard time justifying the cost, but hated having to look around the center console around for my garage door opener. I found that a $30 keychain remote like this one fits perfectly behind the bottom center part of the touchscreen where it can't be seen. When I want to open the garage...

Elongated Muskrat

Happened while driving, which was no big deal. but it corrupted my TeslaCam which is frustrating because I'm always so careful about long pressing the icon before removing my USB drive...

Just called the SF Tesla showroom in San Francisco and learned that if you have SR+ you can only downgrade to SR within 7 days of delivery. I've had my SR+ for 2 week and they told me I'm out of luck.

No need to cut up USB cables. A much simpler fix is to cover the data leads with a piece of tape as shown here. I have a USB splitter like this one (with one data+power cable and one power-only), and was able to get both QI pads working again by plugging the taped-up splitter in the left USB...