wiztecy
Active Member
I just checked, that sticker is actually affixed * TO * the drivers side door, back facing panel.
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OK, thanks Dennis.
#34 got a new door, so no surprise that I didn't find it.
Have been at the body shop yesterday. We were finally able to attach the left body panel... after 5 weeks of waiting.
#34 got a new door, so no surprise that I didn't find it.
Have been at the body shop yesterday. We were finally able to attach the left body panel... after 5 weeks of waiting.
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I agree a nice coating of Dynamat will go a long way to a more enjoyable ride. it looks like it will be easy to add it at this stage.
Thanks for the reminder.
Even though it's not #1 on my list, it's still on there. When I get the car back, the first thing I'll do is to put the Subwoofer and the ESS back into the car because I don't like having the ESS sit on three pallets..
Then the Dynamate will finally find its way into the Roadster
P.s.: What does Tesla use for the splashguards? Looks like some kind of fleece on some pictures?
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wiztecy
Active Member
The 1.5 inner fenders are the standard plastic fenders, not fleece / cloth like the one above. Possibly that was something put in the later 2.x models to help deaden the road noise....
wiztecy
Active Member
Interesting data-point, #268 does not and has the plastic inners front/rear. Curious where the cutoff is.
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The fleece liners are part of the sound reduction package 1. The sound reduction 1 was standard on 2.0 and better models. But if you had the sound reduction 1 installed installed on a 1.5 like I did then they replace the front plastic liners with the stiff fleece ones.
any chance you have more pictures of the dissembled power stage? i would LOVE to see what part number is written on those round black can shaped capacitors, what the metal bus bar structure looks like on other side of IGBT power stage. thanks so much for your share, really exciting to see this technology!
No update for exactly a month, now.
The 1st paintshop wasn't able to paint the Roadster (it hadn't been painted after almost two month time). Well I've been really busy anyway, but two month are WAY too much. So I told them to return it and since last friday it's in a different body shop to get its beautiful black color. BTW I changed the color from Tesla jet black to a metallic black, BMW Saphir Black to be exact, which should be way less sensitive. I set the deadline to this saturday, but they told me I'll get it back on Friday, so there are only two nights left, until it's christmas
I only had the car for a day, so I haven't been able to do much at it. Only started to put some dynamite in.
Now as I will start assembling the car and there has been so many wishes for writing a repair manual, I am thinking of setting up a wiki or so with some useful informations, data (dimensions of the dynamat e.g.) and working steps to disassemble / reassemble all the parts, which are off the car right now. Not sure yet, if doing this by setting up a wiki is the best idea or there's some better solution. I'm open to suggestions.
Tesla doesn't support exported cars, so I have to do some expensive tests (e.g. EMC/EMI) for having the car approved in Germany, I am thinking of setting up a donation system to get some monetary reward for the time I put into the wiki, which I will use for these (actually stupid and unnecessary) tests.
What do you think
-of the whole idea
-should be covered in the "repair" manual
-would be the best way to set it up
What I don't wanna do is to hack the CAN bus.
The 1st paintshop wasn't able to paint the Roadster (it hadn't been painted after almost two month time). Well I've been really busy anyway, but two month are WAY too much. So I told them to return it and since last friday it's in a different body shop to get its beautiful black color. BTW I changed the color from Tesla jet black to a metallic black, BMW Saphir Black to be exact, which should be way less sensitive. I set the deadline to this saturday, but they told me I'll get it back on Friday, so there are only two nights left, until it's christmas
I only had the car for a day, so I haven't been able to do much at it. Only started to put some dynamite in.
Now as I will start assembling the car and there has been so many wishes for writing a repair manual, I am thinking of setting up a wiki or so with some useful informations, data (dimensions of the dynamat e.g.) and working steps to disassemble / reassemble all the parts, which are off the car right now. Not sure yet, if doing this by setting up a wiki is the best idea or there's some better solution. I'm open to suggestions.
Tesla doesn't support exported cars, so I have to do some expensive tests (e.g. EMC/EMI) for having the car approved in Germany, I am thinking of setting up a donation system to get some monetary reward for the time I put into the wiki, which I will use for these (actually stupid and unnecessary) tests.
What do you think
-of the whole idea
-should be covered in the "repair" manual
-would be the best way to set it up
What I don't wanna do is to hack the CAN bus.
I would be willing to "donate" to the cause as I really hope to keep my Roadster for MANY more years and I normally perform all my own maintenance. But I hesitate to dig in without any reference material. I guess what concerns me the most is being able to repair the ESS (Battery) and the PEM. Most other things one can figure out.
I would contribute knowledge and small amount of cash. I doubt if you would get enough contributions to pay for your time.
ESS and PEM.
Ok, I think I'll just keep on posting some details here, but save the work for setting up some wiki or so...
Got the car back and the ESS is back in it.
Couldn't resist and had to drive it for some meters, didn't drive it before, since one of the drive shaft was damaged in the accident.
PV4EV
Member
I too would be willing to make a donation for this information, for all the same reasons you've just mentioned
As these cars get older and the Model S, Model X, S 4wd, Gen 3 etc roll out I fear that Roadsters might get sidelined and its therefore important to build up a knowledge base for long term maintenance.
Marco, can you identify where the 100watt constant drain happens in the roadster electronics? maybe improve the design to stop that horrendous vampire drain.
If that could be done I think many owners would be interested in such an upgrade. it eats up 1000watt worth of solar panels just to feed that vampire load.
If that could be done I think many owners would be interested in such an upgrade. it eats up 1000watt worth of solar panels just to feed that vampire load.
I do not see anywhere near this drain in my 1.5 Roadster. I lose about 300 watts/day or about 12 watts/hour. I figure it would take at least 6 months for my battery to drain.
wiztecy
Active Member
I agree, I don't have much of a vampire drain as well and much of what does drain is from the coolant circulation pump and usual systems load.
How did you determine or measure a 100W constant drain? I have a version 2.5 and lose about 250 - 300 W-hrs per day in line with the previous 2 posts. I think most of that is from internal leakage through the battery itself and that the actual electronic drain is very small. If you live where it's quite hot then you will lose more from periodic automatic battery cooling. Curious how you measured 100 W.