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Electric window broken - sourcing parts

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Alan

Member
Sep 18, 2010
271
21
UK
I wound my windows down yesterday but only the drivers one came back up. Its making noises when I use the switch but the window is not moving. Suspect the cable has broken.

Does anyone know if the mechanism is a Tesla part only or if its from a Lotus Elise or something else?
Thanks in advance!
 
I wound my windows down yesterday but only the drivers one came back up. Its making noises when I use the switch but the window is not moving. Suspect the cable has broken.

Does anyone know if the mechanism is a Tesla part only or if its from a Lotus Elise or something else?
Thanks in advance!
I have a new regulator for the left side door. PM me for more info.
 
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Thanks for above - I was busy so my local garage stripped down the door. The regulator has a Lotus logo and part no on it. Will post what the part no is when I get the car back.

Thanks to da2ny for the offer of the spare at a good price - I will however source locally as I get the car back today rather than delay whilst shipping from USA.
 
Hi All,

I would like to revive this thread...
My Roadster 2.0 had a horrible gravel grinding sound with driver window movement.
Now it will not move... it just hums.
Can I pop off the door upholstery to see a broken window actuator???

I hate to break things doing repair research...

Thank you,

Shawn
 
Hi All,

I would like to revive this thread...
My Roadster 2.0 had a horrible gravel grinding sound with driver window movement.
Now it will not move... it just hums.
Can I pop off the door upholstery to see a broken window actuator???

I hate to break things doing repair research...

Thank you,

Shawn
It doesn't pop off. It un-bolts. You have to bend back the corners to reach the bolts.
 
9D3E8A45-97B3-45FF-A231-F12ACADCAE73.jpeg
You might try searching for this part-no.B11xxxx. This was the invoice for fixing driverwindowproblem on my Roadster 2010, 2.0.
 
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It doesn't pop off. It un-bolts. You have to bend back the corners to reach the bolts.
A few observations.

First, this thread is helpful in knowing what to do to remove the door panel: Need Info on Roadster Door Panel Removal. The only thing I would add is to get some heavy-duty clear plastic sheeting (like a painter drop cloth or something like that) and rubber glue before launching into the project. When you go into the door, there is clear plastic sheeting glued onto the door which is difficult to get behind without damaging it.

Second, I had a horrible rattle in my RH door particularly when the window was down which I lived with for months until I took it apart to try to diagnose the issue. I should have taken photos but what I found was there is a "rail" that is connected to the tiny adjustment screw at the bottom-rear of the door that is glued at the top. Or I should say was glued. The glue fastening at the top had become detached, the rail had fallen away from the window, and was just loose inside the door (the window still worked fine and but for the rattle, I would not have know something was wrong).

To repair, I got the rail back into position holding the window, and used double sided automotive molding tape (like https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...n-x-5-ft-scotch-mount-molding-tape/196101_0_0) to attach the top of the rail to the insider of the door. So far, it has held. I suspect that the rail does not take kindly to the door being slammed (something that happens with the passenger side) and likely popped off because of that but who knows.

This rail might not be your issue at all. But I thought I would mention it as I could see that if the top glued-on part became un-attached how the rail could end up in the wrong position and completely bind the window in a particular position.

One other thought. While you are inside the door, it does not hurt to stick some sound-deadening material such as Dynamat (Dynamat.com | Dynamat Xtreme and SuperLite Vibration Dampers) on the inside of the door. With the Roadster, every little bit of sound deadening helps.
 
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Hi All,

I was able to remove the door upholstery. A special thank you to John for his pictures.

My situation is that the stainless steel cable is tangled and kinked on the driven pulley
by the motor and gearbox.

I found a repair service - Power Window Repair on eBay - They are located in Phoenix.
I have shipped it to them, they have repaired it and they are shipping it today by Priority Mail.
The fixed price for this repair and replacement of plastic parts with metal parts is $189 which includes the
Priority return mail...

I will report back when I receive it, install it, and observe its performance in the car.

Shawn
 
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Hi All,

I recently returned from a trip.
My rebuilt Lotus Elise window regulator was waiting for me.
It was rebuilt as a service on eBay by Power Window Repair in Phoenix, AZ.
They did a great job. Most of the plastic parts were replaced with metal parts...
As I mentioned above the price was $189 and that included priority mail shipping.
It installed fairly easily and it works well.
They turned around the repair in 2 days...
I am very happy with their work.
I have attached before and after pictures.
Original Regulator - black plastic parts.jpg Original Regulator - Tangled cable.jpg Rebuilt Regulator - Metal wheels.jpg Rebuilt Regulator - Metal wheels(red).jpg Rebuilt Regulator - Metal Parts.jpg

Shawn
 
Hi Jack,

I was posting before and after photos of the door regulator...
The befores are on the plywood where you can see white plastic wheels and grey sleeves.
On the moving blanket are the improved part with the metal pulleys, metal sleeves, and black plastisol holding the parts in place.

Shawn
 
Usually it is the bracket underneath the button that gets bent down, making it hard to activate the switch. If you can get it to open when you push down hard on the button (and wiggle it a little), that's your problem.
Thanks! Yeah, I suspect that it is indeed the door button and not the actuator. I managed to remove the door panel but cannot see that button from the inside of the door. Do I need to remove the window and the window regulator? And can the button be removed and/or replaced? How is it attached to the door?
 
It appears to be the door button indeed. A normal push on the button does not work but a very, very, very gentle touch of the button opens the door. I think ML Auto is correct in saying that the bracket is bent down. What is the best method for repairing this? Anyone having experience in this willing to help me out?