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I work on 10-20 Tesla weekly. What questions do you have about Window Tint, PPF and coatings?

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Thank you for answering questions! I have performed detailed inspections on 4 Model 3's with build dates of June, July, August and September 2018 and I have not seen an improvement in paint quality. We only accepted delivery of the August build and rejected the rest of them due to fisheyes that can only be corrected by a repaint. Given that my sample size is only four and yours is 10-20/week, have you seen paint quality improve, deteriorate, or remain constant on Model 3's built over the past few months?

@EricUSC I will provide you some info. I rejected 3 Model 3s and waiting for the 4th car.
First two (Aug build) had issues like paint chip on front and rear bumper. 3rd reject on last Sunday (Sep build) was better in terms of overall quality, but deal breaker was a dotted paint nib/chip on two door panels that was told requires complete repaint. Also, found a couple dust under clear coat that I could let it go. Got a scratched and chipped steering wheel as well.
My car is white, so any paint imperfections are easily spotted.

I had enough time to briefly go over most Model 3s on the lot that day (around 15), build date from July to Oct. Most had some paint issues but couldn't noticed minor ones on darker color cars. The two Oct build cars seems fine they were not white and I didn't spent too much time inspecting other people's car. The worst was another white Sep build with a major over residue on clear coat on the trunk lid. I am giving Tesla at most couple more chances, if their QC on paint still has issues I am taking the refund and getting another car.

I’m doing PPF and Ceramic coating later, so would need to get the paint quality on point before applying.

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It might, I know they use it on some parts of the car when doing vinyl around weird curves. PPF might be too thick and might stretch the PPF. But I would imagine it's also inefficient for an installer to use it on a whole car. They have to spend additional time carefully laying out the cutting tape.

Wouldn't it be worth it though for not cutting and damaging the paint, what PPF is meant to do to begin with?

Plus for customers like me, knowing they can install PPF without cutting the paint will compel me to actually pay for the product as this concern has kept me from installing PPF.
 
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Wouldn't it be worth it though for not cutting and damaging the paint, what PPF is meant to do to begin with?

Plus for customers like me, knowing they can install PPF without cutting the paint will compel me to actually pay for the product as this concern has kept me from installing PPF.
You make it sound like because they're using knives, they're going to cut the car. It's just that there's the possibility they will. If they're good and careful, they probably won't. To minimize risk, I think that's why a lot installers are using pre-cuts now though. There are still some that believe custom bulk cuts are a higher end install though.
 
What does the XPEL “10 year warranty” actually cover? Is it a hassle? How long could a PPF reasonably stay on the car before I have to remove it? In your opinion what’s the best looking Tesla to leave your shop? I’m going to do a stealth wrap on my MSM model 3 soon and can’t wait!

10 year warranty is vague.. I havnt had to do any warranty work yet. If I have issue I’ll just redo a panel myself and make the customer happy.

I’ve done many stealth model 3. Xpel stealth definitely stains.

I’ve done some test with 3M they will introduce their stealth in a few weeks. Much better then Xpel stealth
 
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Thanks for coming on here... My question for @MinnesotaMX is this.. If after a few weeks, there are some small bubbles in the tint, is it acceptable for the customer to come back in to request a re-do free of charge? In one of our best shops around me, (tout about how crazy they are about the extreme specifics even going over the car with bright LED lights to determine the amt of paint correction needed for PPF and Ceramic), I feel like I should be the same with the tint. I noticed some of it when I left and the guy said they can push those out at a later point in time and/or they'd go away when 'moisture leaves' or something like that... But to look at it now and realize my 10 year old car that had tint done by a competitor had zero micro bubbles...

I mean, you really have to look for them but I do have them in some spots.. Maybe I'm just nuts bc it's my car but IDK.. (Like overreacting to dead pixels) but they are one of the more expensive places in the area.

Also,

If they can’t touch it up ask them to redo it.

It’s not easy to making all windows perfect. Most stuff will cure over time or a quick touch up helps also
 
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Would you say it is acceptable to find very fine scratches on the outside of the back glass from cutting the rear film? Deep enough to register with a fingernail.

I just had my 3 day old Model 3 performance tinted and clear bra installed. When I went to pick it up, the rear defroster had about 6 areas where the defroster is damaged with missing bars. The installer says it cannot happen when installing tint. So I went and inspected the glass and found the knife marks on the glass from 2 pieces of film being cut on it. The installer slipped with his knife one of those times and hit the paint even making a 1-2 mm gouge.

Hes saying the defroster damage could not be his fault because he only installed tint and didn't remove it. I suspect his tint guy messed up and had to redo the tint.

Not sure how the defrost lines got damaged. Tint’s don’t need to scrape a window that’s been never tinted.

The outside blade were but with an old blade :(
 
There is another thread explaining from another installer that they did see 1 other Model 3 with a poorly adhered defroster, they took pictures and let the customer know asap. I just fount the window like this after getting my tint done for the first time. My installer didn't notice either somehow. Its my understanding a light abrasive pad is often used to clean the window to prevent any contamination, could be the installer wasn't careful or that the defroster was indeed defective.
 
If you can only do one which do you do? PPF or Ceramic?
I can get the whole car done with one layer of Ceramic Pro light and then a top layer of Ceramic Pro 9H, this has a 5 year warranty for $1,500. For about the same price ($1,700) I can get a partial PPF (full hood, full bumper, headlights, mirrors, and part front and rear fenders) using Suntek Ultra, 10 year warranty.

There is a chance I'll do one and then the other a few months later (after a winter in NE Ohio), if I did ceramic first would that make doing PPF harder to install later?

I would go with the front ppf and ceramic pro sport for now. Sport should be in the 200-250 range and last through winter
 
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I'm considering taking my Model 3 to have bulk PPF installed for the front, then doing the DIY CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 over the top and for the rest of the car myself. Any issues putting this version of ceramic over the PPF?

I'm having second thoughts on the bulk PPF now, but if the installer is good it should be fine right?

Modified pre-cut isn’t bad. Honesty for most consumers if I told you it was custom whiling using Pre-cut most wont know.

Remember bulk cuts have risk of cutting on the Cars paint.
 
Seems so. Worried that my paint will get cut is the biggest reason I have not yet applied PPF. I am paranoid OCD so it would be very stressful for me to drop off my baby and be worried that the paint is getting cut...

So would certain instalers have pre-cut pieces for a Model S and other Tesla models?

Yes most Suntek 3m and Xpel installers will have pre cut.

Ask them to bulk the hood, modify the fenders so the camera comes out. And tuck in fenders.

Make sure the camera goes back in flush. Take before and after of the camera flush or not
 
Thank you for answering questions! I have performed detailed inspections on 4 Model 3's with build dates of June, July, August and September 2018 and I have not seen an improvement in paint quality. We only accepted delivery of the August build and rejected the rest of them due to fisheyes that can only be corrected by a repaint. Given that my sample size is only four and yours is 10-20/week, have you seen paint quality improve, deteriorate, or remain constant on Model 3's built over the past few months?

Also, how would you approach adding PPF on a car that has fisheyes? I would imagine that the film won't adhere very well over the bump.


All tesla have the fish eyes and paint dimple defects. Some are just worse then others.

You’re right you can’t sand them down since it will be white underneath. You will just have to wrap over it. Sometimes it makes it more noticeable
 
It might, I know they use it on some parts of the car when doing vinyl around weird curves. PPF might be too thick and might stretch the PPF. But I would imagine it's also inefficient for an installer to use it on a whole car. They have to spend additional time carefully laying out the cutting tape.
It’s to thick. That’s why a modified Pre-cut kit is best. Sometimes you shouldn’t force Film to do what it’s not suppose to do
 
There is another thread explaining from another installer that they did see 1 other Model 3 with a poorly adhered defroster, they took pictures and let the customer know asap. I just fount the window like this after getting my tint done for the first time. My installer didn't notice either somehow. Its my understanding a light abrasive pad is often used to clean the window to prevent any contamination, could be the installer wasn't careful or that the defroster was indeed defective.

I’ve done 100 model 3 Rear window. A light pad wouldn’t scratch or remove. Wonder if they used a blade to remove the tape from temp plates?
 
@EricUSC I will provide you some info. I rejected 3 Model 3s and waiting for the 4th car.
First two (Aug build) had issues like paint chip on front and rear bumper. 3rd reject on last Sunday (Sep build) was better in terms of overall quality, but deal breaker was a dotted paint nib/chip on two door panels that was told requires complete repaint. Also, found a couple dust under clear coat that I could let it go. Got a scratched and chipped steering wheel as well.
My car is white, so any paint imperfections are easily spotted.

I had enough time to briefly go over most Model 3s on the lot that day (around 15), build date from July to Oct. Most had some paint issues but couldn't noticed minor ones on darker color cars. The two Oct build cars seems fine they were not white and I didn't spent too much time inspecting other people's car. The worst was another white Sep build with a major over residue on clear coat on the trunk lid. I am giving Tesla at most couple more chances, if their QC on paint still has issues I am taking the refund and getting another car.

I’m doing PPF and Ceramic coating later, so would need to get the paint quality on point before applying.

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Lol... sorry didn’t try to laugh. You will not be owning a Tesla model 3 anytime soon then.

The imperfections on some areas are hard to find unless you’re at different angles. Different lighting etc...

You know how many Tesla owners think they got the perfect tesla until they come into my shop.
 
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Lol... sorry didn’t try to laugh. You will not be owning a Tesla model 3 anytime soon then.

The imperfections on some areas are hard to find unless you’re at different angles. Different lighting etc...

You know how many Tesla owners think they got the perfect tesla until they come into my shop.

I don't know if that makes me feel better or worse lol. I thought I got a lemon with all the defects, but now it seems like a systemic problem. I thought about trying to get a new one, but this is making me think twice. Thanks for answering all these questions!