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Rear pem / motor blower part number?

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I am back from vacation and took a look under the car to do a double check:

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Hi ML,

Thanks for the reply!!!

There are four pin from the PEM fan socket:

Pin1. rd/bk--motor fan +
Pin2. rd/yl--pem fan +
Pin3. br/rd--motor fan -
Pin4. br/yl--pem fan -

There are only two wire (one positive and one negative) come out from the fan.

Should I connect the fan positive wire to the pin 1, and the fan negative wire to pin3 , and let pin 2 and pin 4 not connected?

If not, please let me know which wire is connecting to which pin.

Thanks in advance your help!

Nicky
 
Hi gregd,

Thanks for the replied. Are you talking about the wiring diagram shown below?

I am planning to rebuild the wire similar to what you've have done, but I am planning to do it differently. As the motor is 10 years old now, I am planning to buy a new one (image attached). I am planning to bypass the AMP connectors at the fan side (which are problematic). Simply cut it and directly connecting the two fan power cables (one positive and one negative) to the four power cables coming from the PEM fan socket. I am planning to get a new molex female connector (19418000). Then hook up 4 new cables to it. These four cables will run all the way to reach the motor for direct connection.

To avoid mis-understanding, please help to confirm whether the following connection is correct:

Connect the wires from Pin1 (motor fan +) and Pin2. (pem fan +) together with the positive wire come out from the fan (twist 3 cables together, wrap with electrical tape, then properly placed)

Connect the wires from Pin3. (motor fan -) and Pin4. (pem fan -) together with the negative wire come out from the fan (twist 3 cables together, wrap with electrical tape, then properly placed)


I am planning to skip the PowerPole connection that you've done.


pem fan.jpg



PEM Fan Wiring 7-10-20.jpg
 
Hi gregd,

Thanks for the replied. Are you talking about the wiring diagram shown below?

I am planning to rebuild the wire similar to what you've have done, but I am planning to do it differently. As the motor is 10 years old now, I am planning to buy a new one (image attached). I am planning to bypass the AMP connectors at the fan side (which are problematic). Simply cut it and directly connecting the two fan power cables (one positive and one negative) to the four power cables coming from the PEM fan socket. I am planning to get a new molex female connector (19418000). Then hook up 4 new cables to it. These four cables will run all the way to reach the motor for direct connection.

To avoid mis-understanding, please help to confirm whether the following connection is correct:

Connect the wires from Pin1 (motor fan +) and Pin2. (pem fan +) together with the positive wire come out from the fan (twist 3 cables together, wrap with electrical tape, then properly placed)

Connect the wires from Pin3. (motor fan -) and Pin4. (pem fan -) together with the negative wire come out from the fan (twist 3 cables together, wrap with electrical tape, then properly placed)


I am planning to skip the PowerPole connection that you've done.


View attachment 612482


View attachment 612481
Yes, that's the circuit. Do solder the connections if possible, or perhaps use a good "wire nut". Simply twisting them together isn't robust enough for more than a quick test. You're running some 10-15 amps through there at times, and if the connection fails, you're stuck on the side of the road. The power pole connector was just a way for me to monitor things, and as a way to feed power back down if the PEM-end fails. Totally optional, of course, but I found it comforting to verify that all was working as expected, since I didn't trust my PEM-end Molex connection fabrication. Turns out it's been fine.

You do want a connector at the motor end of the cable, if nothing else for the ability to disconnect things for maintenance. I believe the mating connector to the one that comes on the blower is from Deutsch; not sure of the part number. You might give Peter at Gruber a call / email, as they make a pigtail to go from that to the original Tesla cable, and can help you get the parts you need.

Good luck!