Recent content by jgatl

Unfortunately had to go with option 1, since my eBay seller sent me the wrong LCD. Here are some additional tips: Goo Gone Pro is nearly useless. Use 99% alcohol - it works the best Use Nitrile gloves from beginning to end, including removing the LCD - the glue does not stick as well to the...

Thank you, I'll bring this back to the TSC whenever I decide to change to MCU2. The TSC Advisor gave me the reverse of the 2 numbers ($1,750 for AP2/2.5 and $2,250 for non AP cars). For now, I'm going to swap out the display only.

So you laid the LCD screen face down into a flat container with 1-2mm of 100% alcohol in it to loosen up the glue, and then removed the glue? Perhaps I'll try this first. How long did you let the LCD sit in alcohol? Did you use a standard lens cleaning solution to clean & polish the LCD face?

A few years ago, my main screen was delaminating and Tesla performed the maintenance under warranty. I've not had the main display bubble since then. On my last TSC visit, I asked about doing the same for the instrument cluster and they said this was not offered. TSC told me the solution was...

TSC quoted me $2,250 because I don't have AP. What I read on this forum is that's it's not a whole lot of work for option 2. From what I've ready, I may need a battery replacement and a motor replacement in the next few years. So for now, I'm going to hold off on the MCU2 upgrade.

In option 2, I'm not planning to separate the original glass and monitor screen. I'm replacing the monitor screen completely and not using the original glass at all. In this forum, most posters commented that the glue was a PITA to remove. I did see in this post where I might need to remove...

Thank you, but I'm not planning to update to MCU2.

I don't understand. For option 2, why would i need to remove the glue? The one from Reel Deal EV does not have the glass on it.

I am ready to replace the instrument cluster in my 2013 MS. I don't want to upgrade to MCU2 ($2,250 due to no cameras/AP1 in my car, not $1,500). I've read multiple posts where owners: 1. Remove glass and clean off all glue - attach glass to new screen via foam tape 2. Replace screen (no glass)...

@beatle great advice and thanks for your keen eye. Pulling the wheel off and shaking the suspension seemed solid. An open ended wrench and hex bit revealed a 1/4 of a turn was fully tightened. No more clunking! It's hard to believe it made that much noise. I need an open ended torque wrench.

Thank you @beatle I see the movement now. I will check them for tightness, I don't recall them having that much play when I installed them. They are aftermarket so perhaps the hole size is the issue. Worst case, I have an appt with Tesla on 2/14 and I will replace them with Tesla parts at that...

@beatle I’ll check the play again fully down and under load. It doesn’t sound like bearings which makes me think it’s the strut. Plus the noise happens as the suspension flexes.

Good idea @DerbyDave. That cover on the left is loose because I have removed the front part of the wheel liner so I could attach a gopro to the fan shroud, in order to get a better view of the control arm linkage. The noise still occurs when the wheel liner is re-attached.

2013 MS RWD, 108K miles. Have replaced all control arms (upper, lower forward and lower aft, all had worn bushings) and stabilizer control bars. Still getting a sound from the front left wheel well. Seems to most often occur when going over bumps or uneven surfaces. Sound is consistent from low...

@Fabricpath @Ken A I am having this exact problem in Atlanta. See my post here.