Bubbling instrument cluster - need to replace glass?

[jgatl]

I am ready to replace the instrument cluster in my 2013 MS. I don't want to upgrade to MCU2 ($2,250 due to no cameras/AP1 in my car, not $1,500). I've read multiple posts where owners:
1. Remove glass and clean off all glue - attach glass to new screen via foam tape
2. Replace screen (no glass) - see reeldealev ("These screens will not bubble like the Tesla screen, because they do not have the extra glass that Tesla installed")
3. Replace new screen (add laptop screen protector, cut to size)

Given the PITA comments about cleaning the glue off (option 1), I'm going to forgo that option. Is there any compelling reason to put anything (Option 3) over the LCD screen?

 

[Gixx1300R]

All of those options will require that the glue to be removed from the screen

 

[jgatl]

All of those options will require that the glue to be removed from the screen

I don't understand. For option 2, why would i need to remove the glue? The one from Reel Deal EV does not have the glass on it.

 

[Gixx1300R]

I don't understand. For option 2, why would i need to remove the glue? The one from Reel Deal EV does not have the glass on it.

because the glue will be stuck on the glass and the monitor screen

 

[shawndh1]

Let us know how your MCU2 upgrade goes.

 

[jgatl]

Let us know how your MCU2 upgrade goes.

Thank you, but I'm not planning to update to MCU2.

 

[jgatl]

because the glue will be stuck on the glass and the monitor screen

In option 2, I'm not planning to separate the original glass and monitor screen. I'm replacing the monitor screen completely and not using the original glass at all.

In this forum, most posters commented that the glue was a PITA to remove. I did see in this post where I might need to remove glue on the chassis, and I've read other posts where I may need to clean up glue residue that leaked from the screen into the panel below the steering wheel.

 

[vcor]

I've never heard of a success with #1 as it looks to be very difficult to do without breaking the glass. #2 can work, and you'd get a new LCD screen that is likely better than the original.

 

[livesmith]

because the glue will be stuck on the glass and the monitor screen

I thought that going this route with realldealev you are replacing the screen and not using the glass anymore, so it's NOT an issue... You toss the old screen, glue and glass altogether...

 

[shawndh1]

Option 2 looks like a good option if you’re not interested in MCU2 upgrade. If you have the technical skills, it’s a pretty straightforward process that does not involve dealing with glue. As for screen protectors, I don’t really see why this would be necessary since you don’t touch the instrument cluster.

Will you do the same if your main touch screen starts to leak?

 

[ucmndd]

I don't want to upgrade to MCU2 ($2,250 due to no cameras/AP1 in my car, not $1,500).

The upgrade for your car is $1750 and is worth every penny. You’re proposing a whole lot of work and goofiness to avoid the obvious solution.

 

[ResHacker]

I am ready to replace the instrument cluster in my 2013 MS. I don't want to upgrade to MCU2 ($2,250 due to no cameras/AP1 in my car, not $1,500). I've read multiple posts where owners:
1. Remove glass and clean off all glue - attach glass to new screen via foam tape
2. Replace screen (no glass) - see reeldealev ("These screens will not bubble like the Tesla screen, because they do not have the extra glass that Tesla installed")
3. Replace new screen (add laptop screen protector, cut to size)

Given the PITA comments about cleaning the glue off (option 1), I'm going to forgo that option. Is there any compelling reason to put anything (Option 3) over the LCD screen?

I'm on the same boat, also didn't want to go into MCU2 as I have Toolbox access on MCU1, don't need Netflix etc., and I'm just fine with it as it is. So I have just removed the IC, put the front glass out using thin wire and hairdryer - that part was easy. Then removing the rest of the goo was pretty sticky job, but with plenty of 100% alcohol it's possible. You just have to be careful to use some flat receptacle and not to put too much alcohol in it - just 1-2mm of depth and sink it to let the goo become jelly and then put it away using a credit card or some similar tool. After cleaning and polishing the screen it serves just fine even without the front glass which I don't need anymore... without any possible bubbles to occur in the future

 

[LonelyMS]

The upgrade for your car is $1750 and is worth every penny. You’re proposing a whole lot of work and goofiness to avoid the obvious solution.

I've read cars upgraded to MCU2 can consume more energy when shut off compare to MCU1 cars. Which is due to lack of some hardware/sensor reading missing from the older cars?

 

[ResHacker]

I've read cars upgraded to MCU2 can consume more energy when shut off compare to MCU1 cars. Which is due to lack of some hardware/sensor reading missing from the older cars?

No, it's just completely different much more powerful computer which has despite better efficiency probably also higher consumption.

 

[ucmndd]

I've read cars upgraded to MCU2 can consume more energy when shut off compare to MCU1 cars. Which is due to lack of some hardware/sensor reading missing from the older cars?

Yes I believe this can be true for very early cars that don’t have a standby supply from the HV battery that later cars do.

 

[ResHacker]

Yes I believe this can be true for very early cars that don’t have a standby supply from the HV battery that later cars do.

Ok, didn't know something like this exists. So it means, this board just directly powers the MCU from HV battery, or? In that case the contactors in battery never disconnects? Because sourcing the power from 12V while car sleeping is inefficient, that's clear.
Nevertheless, there's quite many pre-face cars with MCU2 upgrade which apparently doesn't have this solution...

 

[jgatl]

The upgrade for your car is $1750 and is worth every penny. You’re proposing a whole lot of work and goofiness to avoid the obvious solution.

TSC quoted me $2,250 because I don't have AP. What I read on this forum is that's it's not a whole lot of work for option 2. From what I've ready, I may need a battery replacement and a motor replacement in the next few years. So for now, I'm going to hold off on the MCU2 upgrade.

 

[jgatl]

Option 2 looks like a good option if you’re not interested in MCU2 upgrade. If you have the technical skills, it’s a pretty straightforward process that does not involve dealing with glue. As for screen protectors, I don’t really see why this would be necessary since you don’t touch the instrument cluster.

Will you do the same if your main touch screen starts to leak?

A few years ago, my main screen was delaminating and Tesla performed the maintenance under warranty. I've not had the main display bubble since then.

On my last TSC visit, I asked about doing the same for the instrument cluster and they said this was not offered. TSC told me the solution was the MCU2 upgrade.

 

[jgatl]

Then removing the rest of the goo was pretty sticky job, but with plenty of 100% alcohol it's possible. You just have to be careful to use some flat receptacle and not to put too much alcohol in it - just 1-2mm of depth and sink it to let the goo become jelly and then put it away using a credit card or some similar tool. After cleaning and polishing the screen it serves just fine even without the front glass which I don't need anymore... without any possible bubbles to occur in the future

So you laid the LCD screen face down into a flat container with 1-2mm of 100% alcohol in it to loosen up the glue, and then removed the glue? Perhaps I'll try this first. How long did you let the LCD sit in alcohol?

Did you use a standard lens cleaning solution to clean & polish the LCD face?

 

[ResHacker]

So you laid the LCD screen face down into a flat container with 1-2mm of 100% alcohol in it to loosen up the glue, and then removed the glue? Perhaps I'll try this first. How long did you let the LCD sit in alcohol?

Did you use a standard lens cleaning solution to clean & polish the LCD face?

Yes, exactly. The longer you will let it loose the more of it will become jelly, but I'd suggest at least few minutes each turn. Yes, I did it multiple times. As I was not that careful, some of the alcohol got into the backlight which caused some ghosting to occur. But after some time it has almost disappeared. In night mode it's almost invisible.
I have used just kitchen paper towels, quite many of them Also spent 0,5l of the alcohol and the container which is useless after the operation
Wort trying it even I wouldn't do it for money to be honest :'D