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lol I'm just waiting until they come back in stock new for 200.

Sounds like there's still some of that rubber caught in the paddle gear and either the paddle gear or the motor is broken.

Aaaand never mind. This is normal operation. Fooled around with it and: In recirculate, that flap is full open, In fresh air, the flap is full closed In Biohazard, the flap is half open, I'm assuming to recirculate through both the dash filter and the larger one in the frunk. Leaving this...

What the title says - this door doesn't fully close when biohazard mode is on which defeats the purpose. There's no way to manually adjust the motor. It functions but has the wrong range of motion. Is this something that can be calibrated? Or do I have to replace the actuator?

Does anyone know if evtuning is still around? I recently ordered a paddle gear from them. I received it and it was excellent and wanted to get their hepa replacement but their site has been down and email unresponsive for a month or so. Are they gone?

You're literally harnessing carefully timed explosions into a harmonic symphony that propels you forward. We think it's cool because it IS cool. That being said I also love the pod-racer-ish "woooooo" that the Tesla makes. I don't mind either noise.

I'd be interested if they would let a late 2017 MS into the buy.

The handle not presenting is either a broken paddle gear (which you would have seen) or a calibration issue on the new Gen 3 handles. You most likely have to have them hook it up to their system to calibrate it if the paddle gear is not broken.

How has this wrap lasted over the last few years? Has it stood up to the sun, hand oils/dirt, and cleaning? I've had this sitting in my garage for over a year now and want to install it but was curious as to its durability, especially because the PU Leather ear pads on my headphones as well as...

If I was just doing the outer skins one box definitely would have been more than enough, but the Model S interior just felt so cheap to me. Very resonant, plasticky, and thin. Dynamatting the panels as well as adding more thinsulate definitely made the panels feel/sound more premium and also...

I've never seen that but compare it to the price of a bulk box of dynamat extreme and a roll of thinsulate (available on ebay and pretty inexpensive) and see how it compares. I prefer to do is separately because I don't need both materials in the same place all the time.

I’m about to do my doors. There’s already some deadening on the outer shell, but to be honest, I use dynamat on the interior door panels as well as they rattle significantly, and dynamatting them definitely helps with noise and makes them feel/sound less cheap/plasticky, so you’ll probably need...

That looks tough.

Sorry to dig up this corpse of a thread, but...Did you ever sell these?

If you're going to have your dash taken apart, I would go for the upgrade VS the replacement. Faster UI, maps, sentry mode/dash cam with clip review on screen + rear cam footage, usable browser, better FSD visualization (if you have FSD and the new computer_. I don't really care about the games...

It's not a ranger thing, and there's no issue, I'm looking to get the MCU 1> MCU 2 upgrade but I know some service centers do better work than other and want to know who in SoCal does the best work since they'll be disassembling my dash.

Question in title. Which SoCal service center will do the best job properly dis/reassembling my dash to do the MCU2 upgrade? I don't mind driving around to get to the place with the best attention to detail as my car is now out of warranty and I don't want to have any install issues come up that...

Bump. No one from Socal can weigh in on which SC does better work?

Question in title. Which SoCal service center will do the best job properly dis/reassembling my dash? I don't mind driving around to get to the place with the best attention to detail as my car is now out of warranty and I don't want to have any install issues come up that I have to fight to get...

Or at least not as much. Looks awkward with the front fenders showing the whole wheel but the rears tucked.

I can understand not liking to back in if you're an awkward parker.

They would argue that the price of the infotainment upgrade is discounted with the expectation of a core unit and that the actual price is higher than the price you pay for the upgrade by about 1 core charge. 🙃

That goes really nicely with the cone and the dark lower body skirts.

For anyone who was still curious, I figured out what this part was! It's the button for the rear optional armrest cover. Somehow it popped out and I'm very glad I noticed the part before it got stepped on/broken as these armrests are harder and harder to come by.

I just think you just have a very rigid view of what a car show is. It's people who show their cars and what they've done to them. Most cars shows don't even have that many old cars. It's usually modded euros and Japanese cars and the draw is the mods. Every show is different and Teslas would be...

Neither are the majority of cars at most car shows. They're usually quite common cars with mods. If someone has modded their S it will fit in fine.

The cost of refinishing that wheel (repair+powdercoat) - $150-ish

Passenger side floor. I found it when I was installing the wireless phone console charger but it wasn't something I took out or disturbed. I have no idea how long it's been lying there as I haven't driven nearly as much this last year because of COVID

That's what's printed on it. I couldn't find it anywhere, either

Can anyone tell me where this goes? I found it on the floor in my car, how no idea how long it's been there and would like to know where to put it. Seems to have some grease inside the back. Part number is 1035654-00-A

Received! Man, you shipped that fast. Everything arrived in described condition. Thank you!

DM'd

Honestly, as funny as it is, it totally gets the point across. On a quick glance I could totally picture what the nosecone Tesla would look like with these wheels and IMO they're a nice pairing.

Same problem for me. I have a router in the garage so it gets great signal, but every time I try to summon it out I get "Connection interrupted." Rebooting, re-adding/pairing, disabling contact syncing, taking all USB devices out doesn't fix the problem.

LOL sure lets release that FSD without fixing bugs. It'll be fine. Nothing bad could happen.

Late 2017 Model S 75D with original MCU1, AP 2.5 upgraded to new FSD computer.

Recently my navi has been taking forever to calculate routes. Like literally 3 minutes to calculate and today it actually failed to calculate a route ( did it on the second very slow attempt). I assumed it was a buggy update, but today the screen went black while driving. Rear view cam was still...

Never mind, I found it. There are three clubs across the top you need to pull straight out to release.

I’ve noticed that a lot of the creaks in my car come from the lower front seat trim. It’s thin and kind of cheap feeling, and there’s no felt/flocking/insulation between the three trim pieces where they contact each other resulting in squeaks and creaks when turning. I’ve been going through the...

I have the Tuxmats and I love them. They are easy to clean and cover far more of the interior than the Maxpiders. The logo is also less obnoxious. The styling itself is love it or hate it, but I really dig it. Gives me DeTomaso Pantera interior vibes.

Bump

Since the last update my Dashcam has stopped working and tells me the drive is full. However, the drive has maybe 5 GB on it and it's a 128GB microSD in a USB adapter. This drive has worked flawlessly for months and now refuses to work. I can get it to work if I reformat it, but after that...

The MCU is the big screen in the center of the dash. That's what this thread is about. There is no MCU 2.5 - only 1 and 2. I think you're confusing it with the self drive computer, which is either HW1, HW2, HW2.5 or the new self drive computer HW3. Your car based on the year you list in your...

Lol, I'd like to sell it to someone who needs a cheap replacement to recoup some of the upgrade cost. Especially since it's in perfect, non-yellowed shape. I'm sure someone would pay a few hundie for it.

Are they taking back the old MCU? Or can I keep it and resell it?

Which cheap ones did you get? The ones I linked from amazon are definitely aluminum and look fine even up close.

I haven't used these tires on my MS, but I once tried them on my previous car (Volvo S60). They rode a bit louder than the Michelins I replaced them with but I decided never to purchase them again the first time I had to panic stop with them. They took noticeably longer to stop than the...

Price. That's about it. To be honest, even the EXANNEX ones are overpriced. I've had a set of $20 Topfits from Amazon on my MS for close to 3 years and they look like they did when I bought them.

I'm getting this to replace our minivan and my wife will take the MS. Totally not a pickup guy, but I must have this.

If so, care to share what you tapped into?