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Yes, you're correct - any time they walked out to the garage, I'd get a slew of "charging interrupted" messages on my phone. For those unsure of why it would impact the HPWC - because it doesn't for them - scheduled charging likely represents the difference.

Note that it only does this if the car has already started charging (has transitioned from blue ring to green ring) and if you're not configured for scheduled charging. If you do it while the car is not attempting to charge, it won't be a problem because it won't cycle the contactors - but once...

Yes.

Mine is defined mostly by my kids' behavior. Going to Florida from the Indy supercharger, we skipped London, KY; Chattanooga, TN; Macon, GA. This is because we stopped for longer meals at Lexington, KY; Knoxville, TN; and Atlanta, GA. Now, another reason we pick those to skip is that...

It's not really a bad batch problem. Here's what happens over time: The "sleeves" in the HPWC and UMC handles have to be a bit "springy" to grasp firmly the pins present in the car's connector and make good contact. Over time, dirt adheres to the pins and is transferred to the sleeves (and...

Yes, the car wants to see the proximity line pulsed 10 times. HPWC doesn't have the code.

There is never no risk, but the likelihood is as close to zero as you can probably get. For those still paranoid, there is a way that you can do it on the older cars (but not the newer ones): open the charge door and let the port time out (so that it relocks and goes black again), then make...

$1,200.

The car has several safety interlocks that assure the port is not attached to the battery and the HPWC contactors are engaged unless they're connected together. Only under very, very, very rare cases (e.g., the battery supercharging contactors welded shut) could you experience that, and I...

Interesting - that's the new price, too. Well, that's a good sign for you. Here's another update: Over in this thread here... Effects of charging on home service voltage ...I talk about how I discovered my voltage has been running a bit high over the past couple of weeks (since a storm - the...

Over in this thread here... Effects of charging on home service voltage ...I talk about how I discovered my voltage has been running a bit high over the past couple of weeks (since a storm). This may be a contributing factor to the HPWC's failure as well, or it could be a combination of the two...

Over in this thread here... Effects of charging on home service voltage ...I talk about how I discovered my voltage has been running a bit high over the past couple of weeks (since a storm). This may be a contributing factor to the HPWC's failure as well, or it could be a combination of the two...

While doing some of my investigation work behind the HPWC failure, I pulled my data records for voltage as seen on my 6 kVA UPS, and it turns out that things have been running "hot" enough (voltage-wise) to put the UPS's into "trim" mode, where they're cutting down the voltage. This may be a...

Do your terms say that? Sometime in 2013 or 2014, the terms changed such that the HPWC portion of the purchase was considered an accessory and specifically called out only a 1-year warranty.

Removed the old wall connector and gave it a thorough look-over. Couldn't see anything obviously wrong. Replacement installed: previous third-gen unit (00-E), the best because a) I didn't need the new sharing functionality, b) mine are configured for 100A so no need for partial current, and...

I was asked this question privately, but its answer is valuable to all. The question I was asked was "you mention a large junction box. How large should it be?" For smaller conductors (#6 and smaller), this would normally be governed by 314.16; but conductors #4 and larger are governed by a...

That service manager has probably seen exactly the same number of the new wall connectors that you have. I have seen them. I am telling you, definitively, that the new wall connector does not have the lugs to "daisy chain" the conductors from the panel into one wall connector, and from that...

If the car has started charging, the contactors will click. If the car has not started charging (or is configured for scheduled charging), then it will not.

It goes back to the early Model S days -- delivery anywhere! Well, at least wherever UPS or FedEx goes. I'm jealous - reservation 71 hasn't made it here yet. Then again, it would be par for the course for me to receive my signature car after production modules started shipping. Happened with...

I suppose you can look at it that way, but I disagree. I view it as a safety measure that the button disconnects the power, even when the car is locked. I've heard the same sob stories you have - this one isn't a sob story or sloppy programming - it's planned to be this way. As for the...

Years ago, you could purchase it with the car and it came with the same warranty as the car. As I understand it, it's now considered an accessory and is 1 year.

Because it's a J1772 spec system. If the locking pin is broken on the car so that it can't hold the connector in, you don't want to disconnect 80A under load.

That's a requirement of the J1772 spec. The button is physically connected to the proximity line. J1772 doesn't know whether the car is unlocked or locked, and as a result it *must* disconnect the power in case the connector is pulled. The J1772 adapter is a good example. Use a real J1772...

There are no restrictions on where the HPWC could be installed. The Code has a provision which states you can't run power cords through windows or doors, but it would be arguable as to whether it applies to the cord on the HPWC. The FAQ covers this. Bottom line is that it's not illegal...

Can you say a bit more? When the car is charging, and I push the button on the handle, it disconnects/opens the contactor and unlatches the port so that I can pull the connector out of the car. It's the same thing that happens when I use the latch on a J1772 connector. It doesn't do that for...

They said they were looking into it but I never heard back. I have not had the issue come up again.

It needs to react and disconnect power so that you can pull the connector from the car safely.

To make the rainbow charger easter egg work, you have to click the charger button 10 times. If the car has already started charging, it causes the contactors in the HPWC or UMC to disengage and re-engage repeatedly, and exercises the proximity circuits repeatedly as well. In my case the main...

Today my HPWC, a trusty device delivering for 3 1/2 years, decided to give up the ghost. It's a failure of the main board. Over the past week, as evidenced by my app's notifications on my phone, my kids have enjoyed playing with the rainbow charge-port easter egg about 20 times. I recommend...

Today my HPWC, a trusty device delivering for 3 1/2 years, decided to give up the ghost. It's a failure of the main board. Over the past week, as evidenced by my app's notifications on my phone, my kids have enjoyed playing with the rainbow charge-port easter egg about 20 times. I recommend...

A potential warning to those of you with kids... I think this failure may have been accelerated by the recent rainbow-charger easter egg. They've exercised that about 20 times in the past week.

This is what I did for my second HPWC. There are some special rules here that must be followed if you do this. First, your service rating from the power company needs to be greater than the main breaker you currently have (e.g., 400A service but only 200A panel, or 200A service but only 100A...

See my FAQ from my signature, below. I can pretty much guarantee you don't have the appropriate wire to swap a 100A breaker to a 150A breaker. It will likely need a larger conduit as well.

No, because the enclosure is rated at only 100A, and 2x 14-50 and 4x 5-20's would exceed that. A small panel with some small rigid or EMT nipples and individual outlet boxes connected to it is the way that it's done in the commercial space.

My car generally reads 1V higher than my actual voltage. The last 5 days or so, I've been suffering from high voltage after a few storms. My solar inverters are reporting 255V, the signature Model S shows 256V, and the Model X was showing 256-257V.

No, it would not. The J1772 spec requires the pilot signal that informs the car. Simply connecting power to the power delivery pins in a J1772 connector will create errors. You need an EVSE that knows how to offer a pilot signal to the car and react to the car signaling the EVSE to close...

Well, Friday the 13th rears its ugly head. Among about 5-6 other breakages around the place, my original 3 1/2 year old HPWC has decided to stop working. The HPWC still provides a pilot signal to the car, the green light is still lit on the HPWC. When the car sends the signal to start...

True, if you have room. Bottom line, it's preferred to use separate breakers to connect each of the HPWC units. Some inspectors will be ok with insulated connectors, others won't. If you want to save on cabling, rather than making two runs back to your main panel, you can place a subpanel or...

The number of flashes means different things on old units vs. new units. Based on what you've mentioned, the unit has failed its own GFCI testing. It's highly unlikely that it's an issue with your power. The GFCI tests failing when you start to charge means that the charge current is...

My interpretation is that the HPWC doesn't count as an outlet - the connection to it does. Official definition: Now, with that said, article 625 tries to make EVSE as part of the wiring system and so you could argue the "outlet" is the HPWC's cable. I suppose it all depends how you want to...

This is the equivalent of the "junction box" method. He spliced in the main panel likely because your wire runs were relatively short. A panelboard can be used to splice using insulated connectors (it's the equivalent of a junction box in this case). That means your either your inspector was...

A junction box is merely where wires are connected together using listed connectors, like wire nuts for smaller circuits or insulated connectors for larger wires. There is no overcurrent device, or a disconnect, or any other equipment in the box -- just a splice of the wires using listed...

Correct. It's always easier to provision now for the future... but if using exposed conduit, there's the option to pull the wiring out of the HPWC and use that to feed a subpanel directly in the wiring path later. The cost of a subpanel is not too much (~$70 or so) and the extra labor later...

I didn't realize the top entry bracket had a bottom entry, if so, that would help you. The top entry bracket would have to be listed as a junction box (I don't believe it is) and would have to have the appropriate volume in cubic inches to support 6 100-amp conductors plus 2 ground conductors...

Tesla has admitted that the wording was confusing. They mean sharing a common breaker from the main service panel (e.g., a feeder) and the same value in the load calculations. The breaker *can* be shared if your inspector will allow you to use insulated connectors to connect multiple HPWC's...

There's no conduit out the bottom of the top entry bracket, and putting the conductors for the next HPWC into the same conduit will result in derating of your conductors for 4 current-carrying conductors. You'd need to take it up to a junction box north of the HPWC.

Do you have a reference for this? Tesla is telling me differently and I'd like a reference, or even better to see it in practice with someone who has connected the units. I'm happy to be corrected here, it will give us more options. I am told the Wall Connector is designed for what the NEC...

You do not daisy chain the units. The top entry bracket has only two terminals per conductor -- one to accept the wiring coming from your panel, and one for the short pigtail wiring that feeds power into the unit itself. Two units on individual 100A branch circuits may share a single 100A...

I don't really know how to proceed. If you have steady/stable voltage between ground and the line conductors, it means the ground is good (although if you have 245V between L1/L2, you should have 122-123V between L1/G and L2/G. If it only happens when you try charging the car, then you may...

EDIT again: Nevermind... on the old HPWC (rev 1/2/3), two blinks means unit failed self-test. On the new HPWC, two blinks means it didn't detect ground. Gah, why change what blinks mean?! I would look to ensure that your pilot, proximity, and ground connections are correct and don't have a...