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Update from the OP, as I know a few people said this killed their desire to get the Pilot Sport A/S. After 2500 miles or so, I'm now noticing minimal consumption difference as compared to the OEM tires (although I've been too lazy to take off the aero covers I put on for our road trip so far)...

Same issue -- I went from 239mi (after 6 months and 15k miles) to 209 the second the SR+ to SR downgrade was performed. Some of the guys on here were positing that more range was taken from us than should have been, because 209 seemed to be the magic number that everyone was getting. Since then...

$4500 (which includes AP, which I don’t have)

It was 7 charges for 750 miles, unfortunately (TeslaFi data below). Consumption averaged .260wh/mi over the entire trip — some of that was rain, some of it was me driving 70 rather than 65, some of it was mountains (I live in South Florida, so I’m not used to it) and some of it was the tires...

Had to charge 7 times, and solemnly swear to my wife that the Tesla will only be used for in-state trips going forward, but we made it

Update: Wasn’t able to get the tires swapped on time. Pulled out of the house at 100% while it was raining and 15 mins later on the highway I was showing an estimated range of something like 90 miles. Almost turned around. Decided to keep pushing through, and a few hours later I’m hitting...

Went for a 20 mile drive last night, and none of them seemed particularly hot compared to the others (it was raining, so that may have cooled them down even if they were). Verified that brake lights weren't on while driving. Since I got the car back, it's had a tiny bit of "driving in...

I've driven 1200 miles since having the tires replaced last Wednesday -- other than Wednesday (because I spent a few hours getting new tires), I haven't had a day on which I drove less than 100 miles, which is what makes the loss of range so frustrating.

Sorry -- wasn't terribly clear there. I'm only getting 200 miles of range at 100% (vs 220) due to the battery being 10% degraded, and then whatever's going on here is taking another 20% off of that, resulting in only 160 miles of range.

I’m not a car guy, so I wouldn’t know what to check, or even what to ask them when I take it back in. Frankly, I’m desperate at this point — we leave for a 1500mi trip in 24 hours, and I have a car that doesn’t look like it’s gonna make it 150 miles on a full charge.

I used to own a Honda Civic and bought whatever tire was cheapest at the tire place down the street, so I assumed “all season” meant “all around decent”. What should I be buying? Range and tire longevity are my primary criteria — I drive 30k a year, and we take road trips only in the...

There has to be something else going on here, and it’s driving me nuts – – just drove down the street at under 20mph, which used to get me essentially infinite range on the OEM 18’s. The car is now telling me I have 25mi of range at 43% SOC. I’m actually getting better efficiency at 65mph than...

I’m also showing 235Wh/mi at 65. How often is this updated/averaged? I’ve only had my new tires since Wednesday.

I've been following the BMS thread like a hawk since it was posted, but no luck yet. I did some pretty extensive troubleshooting with @AlanSubie4Life (there's a whole thread or so), and it looks like I'm ~8% or so degraded. I'm strongly considering upgrading back to SR+ to try to recapture some...

Considering doing a return. These aren’t the Pilot Sport summers tires, they’re the all seasons, so I didn’t think they’d be this bad.

45psi on the new ones, and 42-45 on the old ones. I’m in South Florida, so it’s hot and flat, and there’s a supercharger on every other corner. Not an issue here, but we’re gonna be in the mountains of NC, so a bit worried.

Finally replaced the stock 18” Michelins on my SR after 43,000 miles after hitting 2/32. Lifetime consumption over 43k was 218kW/hr. Got a great deal on the new Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 at Costco, and immediately noticed my consumption went through the roof. I’ve put almost 1k on them...

FWIW, I tried this out this week in my already 10% degraded (199 mi @ 100%) SR, and lost 10 more miles. I used to charge nightly to 90%, and decided to set it to schedule a 50% charge to complete at 7am about two weeks ago. Since then, I've lost 10 more miles of rated range (charged from 10-100%...

@SomeJoe7777 Would you mind detailing (or better yet, posting a screenshot) of your TeslaFi sleep settings? I'm interested in trying this out, but since it looks like it may take weeks/months to see any success, I want to be sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot with incorrect sleep settings.

Yes — the last few % in the SR+ takes AGES. Think of the battery like a balloon. It’s easy to blow up at first, but progressively more difficult, and it becomes very difficult at the extreme full end. The SR just fills the balloon to 92%, so there’s still plenty of ability to get the “air” in...

Exactly. Found the thread — Supercharger Curve for SR (downgraded from SR+)

I can’t find the thread now, but we were able to definitively prove that my SR is top locked — regen at 100% and the SR+ supercharger curve is unaltered at high SOC.

Is it USB-PD? I ended up taking apart my console and running a 45w USB C cable through it to get 18w charging.

FWIW, I have an SR without AP (voluntarily downgraded from an early SR+ without AP last year) and got it in writing from Tesla corporate that if I want to "re-upgrade" that my price is the difference between the SR+ price at the time that I choose to re-upgrade and $35,000. I was very specific...

I have an SR and drive 30k + miles per year without incident or range anxiety

I’d be all over this!

FWIW, I’m back to 206rmi after dipping as low as ~195rmi

Super interesting!

I think this is accurate — it seems like everyone who downgraded went to 209 overnight

@AlanSubie4Life here’s my TeslaFi data. 6 months and 15k miles in and I was still getting 238 at 100%. The morning the upgrade pushed through, I was down to 209. A few days after that, and I was below 205.

@AlanSubie4Life I just thought to go check the car itself, and I’m a bit confused. It shows 202rmi/325km at 100%, and shows that 43kwh was added. I may not be understanding, but it seems like this 43kwh would be on top of the ~1.3kwh that was still left in the battery (the 6rmi left when I began...

Thanks! That’s a bummer, but at least I know where I stand — fortunately, you can’t throw a rock here without hitting a supercharger (we’re starting to get V3 as well), so even with my crazy high mileage lifestyle, that’s never a concern. If I were to upgrade back to SR+, what sort of rmi do...

Here we have it! Started at 6:09pm with 6rmi, ended at 1:59am with 201rmi (195rmi added over 7hrs 50mins). TeslaFi indicates 43.1kwh added. I estimate 1.3kwh was left on the battery for the 6 miles of range, for a total of 44.4kwh (not counting the buffer). Does this seem sound?

Charging began at 6:06EST at 10km/6rmi, and took a moment to ramp up to 6kw

I logged %, miles, and km (for more accuracy) when I started. Just ran down and turned HVAC & Sentry Mode off — it was in the garage, so it wasn’t on, but just to be safe.

Here we go!

@AlanSubie4Life Thanks for your calculations! If I’m reading them correctly, it’s your theory that I have ~15% degradation (41.2khw vs an expected 47.65kwh — calculated by (SR+ capacity of 54.5*.916 (SR software lock))*.955 (buffer allowance). If so, doesn’t that seem extreme for 11 months / 30k...

@AlanSubie4Life I have a full battery’s worth of driving today, and did a semi-scientific experiment for the first leg. Charged to 100% (201rmi per display / 201.6rmi, per Teslafi) and took off. I was in P for 10 minutes while running an errand, but otherwise was moving. After driving exactly...

I imagine the reason they don’t do this is that you could easily find yourself in a situation where you decide to upgrade to SR+ but don’t get additional range because degradation had been hidden. I’d be pissed if I paid $1500 and got 2 more miles of range or something.

Thanks! Waiting for a day this week when I can do this while everyone is out of the house (so I can kill the AC). Curious why you think the range loss is real, particularly in light of the fact that my SR+ still showed 238rmi the day before I downgraded, at which point it immediately dropped to...

@AlanSubie4Life sadly, I’m charging on a 10-30 at the moment, so I’m at 24A. Will this affect things at all, or just make the experiment take longer? @Teedub21 I’m not unhappy with the downgrade decision, I just wish I wasn’t “losing” 20% of my battery vs the promised 10%. I’m never far from a...

I’m in South Florida, so not sure what this “winter” you speak of is ;) I drive a ton (just hit 29k miles this week, and I took delivery on March 25th), and there are several drives I take regularly where 20 miles means the difference between having to supercharge to get back home or not — if...

Then use a cable lock or keep your gun on your person. I’m not suggesting you leave it on the front seat. I’m suggesting that you be reasonable about what level of security is necessary. Guns are stolen from cars in crimes of opportunity, not by professional thieves. If someone wants something...

My SR+ (voluntarily downgraded to SR 5 months ago) is only showing 199 rated miles at 100% (29k miles on the clock). At the time of downgrade (at 15k miles) it was still showing 238 rated miles at 100%, and immediately went to only 208 miles on the date of downgrade. I’ve been reading a lot...

I don’t understand the need for so much security — welded/bolted safes? I’d be willing to wager 99% of guns stolen from cars are either negligently left right out in the open or stored somewhere obvious (glovebox, etc). If nobody knows it’s there and it’s not somewhere that someone is gonna...

I have a March 2019 build (SR+ voluntarily downgraded to SR) and lost my fogs in the downgrade. Since then, I’ve noticed that they come on from time to time while I’m driving, but I have no software control over them.

That’s a pretty unlikely laundry list, to be honest. There’s not a lot of room in the console/front cabin to securely mount a safe. You’re likely ultimately going to have to decide between easy access (holster/magnetic mount) or security (safe bolted into sub-trunk). IMO, if you’re unwilling to...

I lost it, but honestly can’t tell the difference. I had a Honda Civic before this, so as far as I’m concerned, it’s still a massive audio upgrade.

I reached out to Tesla in April after the blog post where they mentioned the downgrade would be offered. Took them until June to reply, and they didn’t get around to doing the upgrade until September. I got $2k back and lost 20 miles of range, fog lights, immersive sound, and .3 seconds 0-60

What was your range when new?