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This is not true, the original mount ist compatible with the KW suspension, so the KW mount ist compatible with the original suspension.

nothing realy fails, the rubber pice can move under load, so it knocks. the plastic top cap ist too weak for enough preload.

https://www.kwsuspensions.de/shop?c_make=3328&c_model=38330&c_car=143480&pgs=166&ag=kwteslastuetzlager

I installed the KW Part and the noise is gone. i cut the Tesla Part open and i think the plastic cap is too weak causing the ruber, to knock inside, the KW part is made of aluminium instead of plastic. greetings from Austria

here is the thread, i have the same clunking noise like in the videos in post 78 reber talks about the prototype testing with KW and in 93 about how the mounts solved the noise with the original dampers and the coilovers. https://tff-forum.de/t/klappergeraeusch-aus-vorderen-bereich/86501

I found the info on the tff forum germany, a company called Reifen Reber is or was in direct contact with KW because of complaints from his customers, he also cut the original mount in half and explained why these can make the sound. My M3 has the clunking sound, all 3 controll arms are new...

its the upper strut mount, a known Problem, KW investigated because costumers complained about noise after installation of their coilovers , they found the original strut mount to be the source and designed a solution...

this is the latest Service Manual, it says SHC 629 for your front drive unit:

it means 10 clicks front, counted from the closed (full stiff or 0) position counterclockwise, and 12 clicks rear.

if you go more than 16 clicks counted from full hard setting, you will probably ruin your dampers.

"adding a little bit of steering assist to make it track perfectly, right?" the simple answer is yes.

rebound seems high, are those the SR or the CS?

2016 FL 90 dual,

i wanted to order a SR Kit for my Model S, could you provide me some Dynos and infos like spring rate and such? is it a linear curve? does the knob change both compression and rebound?

1420346-00-B and 1420341-00-B for all Model S til 2016, 1420346-00-B and 1420341-00-B for all Model S from 2016-2021, just check at Tesla Parts Parts Catalog , your Service Advisor isnt wrong, but those are not the latest Part Numbers, he is just revering to the Part numbers itself but those are...

No

any updates on this?

yes, like Bilstein or KW......

these where made from 2012 to 2015 i think, they are more or less the same as Rev. A latest PN is 1420341-00-B and 1420346-00-B. your 6006664-00-C are even earlyer than the problematic 1041570-00-A someone sold you old stock

They have been redesigned because they can break, yours are old Parts, NOS maybe.

Why would you use old style Fore Links? they can break.

yes

:)) Viscosity Index ist not Viscosity Grade . Viscosity Index for instance tells you: if you warm this oil by xx degres it will lower the viscosity by xx % , but nothing about the actual viscosity grade.

Dexron VI viscosity is very different from SHC 629 or iso 150. it is much much thinner

Mobil SHC Gear 150 is also a replacement for SHC 629. Gear 150 is full synt., contains EP Additives. and you can find cross reference easier. I think full synt. 85W90 gear oil would also be ok

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124840485321?var=425910663243&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338722076&customid=&toolid=10050

"Lube-V Full Synthetic ISO 150" or "Indisyn Oil Mild 150" is a direct replacement for SHC 629. 629 comes only in 5 gallon buckets

Dexron 3 is far, far away from being equivalent to SHC 629, he lied to you. its a totaly different oil for a different aplication Dexron 3 viscosity at 40 celsius is around: 35.9, Mobil SHC 629 is 150 mm²/s at 100 around : 7.4, Mobil SHC 629 is 21 mm²/s...

The Mobil SHC 629 oil is much thicker and very different from dexron 3 (6 by the way) , i would not recomment dexron in an old front DU, they get noisy in summer with dexron.

yes, this was a workaround from Tesla for noisy front air suspension

Try 1064610-S0-E 1064611-S0-B special strut braces for noise and vibration.

Here ist the Dyno before and after:

it seems like Tesla stiffend the rear dampers on the Model S, the blue line is Compression from my 2016 FL 90D and the grey line is from a 2013 p85 RWD, Rebound is the same but Compression is like 44% more at highspeed. also these Bilstein are filled with 430 psi so the inital force to move them...

but its smooth?

RWD on Coils?

nearly all on coil and 19. Dec 2016 90D Coil 19 Zoll hart pilotSteve Ende 2016 60D Coil 19 Zoll hart JPRiver front#F4-EE5-K999-W0 162470234; REAR #F4-EE5-K763-W0 162310669 Dec 2016 60D Coil hart Deans Dec 30 2016 90D Coil 19 Zoll hart Joe F July 2016 75D ??? ...

if the car pulls, the software will "fix" it after some time

I told the SC I fear it could break, so they replaced both fore links, as stated in the SB : "This repair bulletin provides instructions and guidelines for a noted condition or a customer concern." If you are a customer and concerned about this problem, the SB says to replace the arms.

I think so, but I wouldn´t wonder if it compensates the compensation for road tilt. :) for example, even the frunk open/closed microswitch is checked by software for plausibility.

The sensor is under the steering wheel, the wheel fits only in one position to the sensor, if you want to mount it in a different position, you have to turn the sensor to that position, the sensor can be moved independent form the shaft, one side is connected to the wheel and the other side to...

there was no fault, i turned the car off bevor i disconnected the airbag

yes but if the Wheel was off for some time, and the car drove staight, then, after alignment it will need to adapt, the car will pull to a side for some time, if you release the steering wheel

the wheel can be centered, the alignment can be good, but the car pulls to one side by software. I made a perfekt alignment (Model S), wheel centered, car didn´t pull. for testing and science, i removed the steering wheel, put it on a little bit to the left, the angle sensor is now offset, the...

And

you might want so read this

if you loosen both sides of the orig. camber link, and retorque it at the most out position, it will be good for around 0,5 deg. less camber.

i think it will work, i have the same suspension in my AWD

same here