Search results

The app will tell you if you have a battery and drive unit warranty remaining. Just scroll to the bottom and hit Specs and Warranty.

Good luck on your purchase! Really can't go wrong either way. No more dealing with quarterly oil changes and weekly visits to the gas station are my favorite part of ev ownership. Also, there are so many free charging options that I only spent about $80 the past 12 months on paid charging. I was...

That 240 range in the cold might be cut in half. That being said I would never trade my MS for a M3.

Sorry, just saw this...you'll eventually get a warning on your dash that the 12V battery needs replacement. Mine lasted 6.5 years so if you're on the original battery it probably will need replacing soon. The 12V battery was $165 from Tesla and they charged $70 labor back in Dec. 2022.

Might be a long shot but check what kind of bulbs you have in your garage opener. I put two LED bulbs that were somehow messing with the homelink signal. Once I replaced them with another set of bulbs my homelink started working consistently.

Drove in with an appointment and the service guy said to just wait in the lobby because they get it replaced really quick. Was out of there in 45 minutes.

Just open a service ticket in the app. If you're getting the replace fuse message on your car screen it should display the same alert in the service menu. I just replace mine under warranty 2 weeks ago. Took about 45 minutes.

If I recall correctly it was $1,200 for the headlight and $600 or so for labor, which is just removing the bumper and the 3 or 4 bolts holding the headlight in place. It's a total ripoff. Buy the headlight yourself on eBay and DIY or take it to a body shop for the install.

I opted for the full coverage for 4 years ($100 Deductible) on my 2016.5 One suspension issue, ac compressor, charge port failure or something like that and the warranty almost pays for itself. Ever since I purchased the warranty the sense of impending doom looming in the back of my head has...

You can also search how to recalibrate your battery. It involves running your battery down to nearly 0 then charging to 100% and leaving it for an hour or so. I think you repeat this process once or twice. It's not secretly unlocking any additional capacity in your battery. From what I hear it...

IF you're able to get $33-35k or so from insurance you can find a MS that's a year or two newer than your 2016. Hopefully they don't lowball you.

The Electrify America (EA) charging network is a joke. My friend has a Mach-E and tells me it's a nightmare going on road trips because the EA stations are always down. Tesla's greatest strength is the supercharging network. Maybe consider a 2020 and up Model 3? I see them going for $25-$30k all...

I have a June 2016 75D. To drive 2.5 hours at 70 mph would be 175 miles, which would take about 80% battery. For me, charging from nearly 0% to 80% would probably take about 50 minutes, and charging from 0% to 40% takes about 15 minutes, so most people will do these shallow charges more often...

How long did you drive around with the pyro fuse warning? Mine just popped up a few days ago on my June 2016 MS but I can't be without a car due to the holidays coming up, and loaners are rare in my area. I don't even know if they provide Uber credits anymore. Was planning on scheduling the...

If you fix it yourself definitely swap out the paddle gear and the microswitches at the same time. You don't want to have to open everything up again because the microswitch craps out. Also a good opportunity to adjust the handle depths if they don't sit flush with the car. Mine were recessed...

I also have mismatched headlights with the Driver side Revision G and the Passenger side the original from 2016. It was all plug and play. No update or configuring needed. Is there possibly a blown fuse for the headlight?

Did you re-tighten the control arm bolts again after driving? Sometimes they need an adjustment after it's been driven.

If you're talking about the pyro fuse I thought this was covered by the 8 year battery warranty? Too many damn parts to go bad.

Yea. I'm really hoping that's not the case. Xcare and 057 were at the top of my list.

Damn, so all those warranties they sold are useless? I'm shopping 3rd party extended battery and drive unit warranties since my factory warranty expires in 8 months but this is making me wary. What's the lesson...don't sign up for any 3rd party warranties longer than 2 years at a time because...

Had my front lower control arms replaced and my steering wheel was pointed way left and car was pulling left. Went to Pep Boys and they got everything back within specs and car's driving nice and straight. Paid an extra $20 or so to get a second alignment within a year for when I swap out tires...

My mistake. I didn't notice he was referring to a P100D and not a 100D. I guess something in the $42k range would be fair. The 100D can be found for $35k in the So. Cal area.

I would pay somewhere around $35k-$38k for that car depending on condition. Low $40k is a lot to ask. That extra money could be used for an MCU2 upgrade and/or an extended warranty with Xcare.

Depends on your state of charge when you're supercharging. If you're trying to charge 108 Miles from a 5% state of charge it will be a lot faster than if you're charging 108 Miles from a 50% state of charge.

Sorry that this happened to you. I'm proactively replacing all my front control arms before this happens to mine because it seems inevitable. Anyone who has the original A revisions should be doing the same. Just save your receipts and hope that it becomes a recall and you get paid back. That...

Part #7 is the bolt I really need since Tesla engineers couldn't figure out that flipping the bolt around so it's not blocked by the battery pack when attempting the removal would be a good idea. Appreciate the diagram. Maybe if I request them by the actual part numbers they'll be more helpful...

I just tried to request the nuts, washers, and bolts to replace the front fore links and lower control arms myself and the Tesla service center is claiming they don't sell them over the counter. They want me to go through a body shop WTH!!!! More reason to hate these greedy SCs.

I just purchased and installed a 1053570-00-G driver side headlight bought off eBay for about $300 after tax. Has a 2021 build date on the label. As far as I know the G revision is the most current that would fit my 2016.5. It's definitely brighter than my original A revision passenger...

For some reason pressing the charger button doesn't open my charge port at work. It's a Gen 1 charger so maybe it's just getting old. But everywhere else like superchargers, or my Gen 2 mobile charger at home, I can open the charge port by simply pressing the button on the charger. Not sure...

I'd pay an extra $2k for a Tesla with free supercharging. It would likely take years to recoup that value since supercharging is generally viewed as being bad for the battery. But the convenience of not giving two sh*ts about supercharging rates ($/kWh) and times is a nice luxury.

When updating to the newest lower forelinks 1420341-00-C and 1420346-00-C is everyone also replacing the lower control arms beside them or is that overkill? I have the crap forelinks referenced in SB-17-31-001 but they haven't given me trouble yet but I'm going to replace them as a precaution.

The eMMC recall is free and will help with the black screens and freezing issues. I got a notice via the Tesla app that my eMMC should be replaced. I had it done under the recall and drove around for a few months but maps were still super slow to load, calculating routes took forever, still no...

I'd pay up to $35k if it has MCU2. I feel like the seller is probably expecting closer to $40k.

Forgot to state 77K miles

2016.5 75D with about 10% loss. 230-234 Miles at 100%. No battery or charging issues (knock on wood) and still on the original battery pack. I will definitely be picking up an XCare 3rd party battery and drive unit warranty before my Tesla warranty expires. It's $3,892 for 7 years/150k Miles...

Same here. My key fob proximity sensors are a lot less reliable lately. Especially when approaching from the passenger side. My key fob only seems to trigger the door handles when I walk past the driver door. My walk away door lock feature also takes longer to activate which is concerning since...

Another reason to go ahead and upgrade to MCU2 is they may continue increasing the price. I upgraded even though my MCU1 was working fine. The higher resolution screens, snappier navigation, plus a functioning browser and voice controls made the $1700ish price tag more than worth it. I used a...

To get Tesla to reverse something like that is next to impossible, even if it wasn't a lease return, which is probably when the FUSC was stripped. The closest you can get to free charging now is Level 2 charging at public chargers. I have FUSC but I rarely use it. I mainly charge at a free Level...

AP1 cars are missing the side cameras and other hardware to allow FSD and that's not something that can be added as an upgrade. AP1 has been great for me and I use it often without issue. The eMMC recall isn't a big deal but if the car doesn't have MCU2 I would just spring for that upgrade. It's...

I would think door handles (early gen handles have more failure points), lower control arms (mainly rear), a leaky or broken sun roof, issues with the instrument cluster, or the MCU screen leaking goo, amongst others. Those repairs alone range from $350-$2,000+ out of warranty if repaired by...

Is it the free supercharging that's most appealing to you? I've seen a lot of better deals out there. I'm in CA, so not your region, but here's an example of a 2017 with MCU2, FSD, and another 2016.5 with FUSC, AP1. For $40k you should get the updated bumper, and not the nosecone. Plus try to...

If your 12V battery is more than 3 years old you can knock that out while you're at it. The facelift MS battery is right there for easy replacing once you lift the frunk tub out. I did my hepa replacement in about 1 1/2 hours with a good chunk of the time cutting out the glue from the filter holder.

If you're parting out your car i'm interested in the front splash guard in good condition. No cracks or damaged clips/tabs. I'm in the Los Angeles/San Fernando Valley area.

Has this been sold?

I once had a total stranger's Model 3 show up in my Tesla App. Showed the car, the car's custom name, etc... I never touched any of the in-app controls or anything but I wonder, if someone wanted to, could they have initiated the ownership transfer, viewed the location and actually driven off...

Anyone know what size torx bit is used to secure the two micro switches?

I have that annoying side squeak coming from both front seats in a 2016.5. I hear it a lot more when my friend who's 6'3 210+lb sits in the front passenger seat. I hear it constantly anytime he moves around. My driver's seat also seems to be getting worse with the creaks. Super annoying but it...

ok 🤡🤡🤡

Late reply but I just got the low voltage warning. Battery is $165+tax and labor is quoted at $72. Labor seems steep but I just replaced my HEPA filter and don't feel like taking the frunk tub out again so I'll probably just pay the $72 and have them come to me and replace it at work.

The Model 3 is the only car I've EVER had to spray ac coil condenser cleaner on because the ac stinks so bad. I call BS on your statement that every car you've ever owned had a funky gym sock smell coming from the ac. Acting like this is a normal part of owning a car is ridiculous. I just sold a...