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Weird as they claim to have few pieces on stock...

Hi Artur, yes, very satisfied, so far all working ok. Do you have a quote from them? If yes, can you share it? Did you also check event. quote from evclinic.eu from Croatia in case they also do such upgrades? Thx for the info, wish you luck!

There's definitely something wrong with your pack or with the heating element. Because if not, even charging of cold soaked pack shouldn't take hours, but let's say 1 - 1,5hour. Free SuC has nothing to do with it, I have upgraded my 85D to 100D and still see charging rate starting at up to140kW...

Sorry, unfortunately no video... it was sticky PITA job and was glad I finally succeeded somehow.. Next time I'd remove the glass the same way using a thin wire, but I'd be more careful when soaking the LCD in alcohol. I'd use maybe some rag to soak the alcohol into first and then to put the...

Mileage+supercharging isnt that big problem. Even leaving the car fully charged or other bad practice wouldn't kill the battery instantly, it would just degrade it faster. Problem is bad design of umbrella valves, pyrofuse cover or others which alows moinsture to occur inside the battery. Only...

You can easily block it :D

@airborne spoon Sorry to hear that and I'm quite shocked as I supposed the 100s to be more robust... Mine has done +-30kkm since the upgrade and so far so good... Also really surprised Tesla is talking to you! I wouldn't go there with my 100 upgraded car :D Nevertheless I totally got your point...

Ok, it probably depends on which SW version you are. And I thought it is a feature for MCU2 and newer versions, so maybe it's not the case. So then there's only one option - to drive slowly (around 90kph) till you're close to zero enough to be precise. You can watch Bjorn Nyland's videos on YT...

Sure, check this. Your BTX6 100kWh battery was like 97kWh usable when new, so you can easily calculate it. Nevertheless, the most precise way is to fully charge it and then discharge to zero because the BMS numbers can be off the reality depending on the use of the car.. EDIT: And for your car...

U're welcome ;) I plan to keep it here permanently as it always can be practical. And I have added a 120A connection between the frunk and car itself, so I can remove the frunk quite quickly when needed. The connection is done of course that way the fuse will trip if anything bad happens ;) And...

Guys sorry, I'm not good at video making and also I'm in a big lack of time nowadays, so glad I did at least the connection. Nevertheless will try to explain as much as I can do. Unfortunately I didn't quickly find any existing video on YT, only have two pics. Here you can see where to...

I think that high-amp point it's actually much better accessible in refresh model S, it should be in one of the boxes just between the frunk and front window or not? In preface you have to disassemble the cabin air intake box and the 12V busbar is located under it. You can pull I believe up to...

Not to 12V batt cause it's fused I'm not sure, 60A maybe? So I'm on the main 12V busbar, just behind the 225A fuse going from DCDC. This way the DCDC can support the load as well as the battery does. It actualy does, you just have to turn it horizontaly ;)

Pre-face S 100D :D see my signature ;)

Hi guys, over this weekend I have hooked up my 1500W pure sin Mean Well inverter on to my Tesla. Works great it's even capable of charging my mom's Zoe at 8A setting on the WB which made the inverter to run at 100% of it's power :D Nevertheless for such high permanent loads it's seems to be...

@Recell It's great info and good to know there's finally a tool for an eventual buyer which can make you sure it was or was not manipulated with the errors...

Yeah - you have figured it yourself or? Cause I did several soft resets, didn't help...tried to do whatever, wifi re-connection, tried TuneIn, all the other services worked... So was really confused what happened... Thx once again ;)

You should be able to buy it separately - independently on the car issue.. If they're compatible with the car and are on stock of course ...

Cracking sounds from the radiator ones you mean? Maybe it's woth to try it out... Mine are working smoothly but throwing the errors... Not sure when I will focus on it as I have other more urgent tasks on the car and very little time... will inform then..

Hi, thanks a lot!! Was exactly my issue and was really upset :D Thank to you I have solved it!

For the condenser shutters it worked, so they started to open when they should and also faults have disappeared..for the radiator ones it don't work, faults still there..

Hi, thanks a lot for such extensive info on this. As 1500$ is probably not worth the benefit I'd say most of us will stick just experimenting with TB2 or adding some mechanical "upgrades" which might avoid the error triggering. For me the TB2 procedures helped just to the condenser shutters, not...

I believe there certainly is a way if you will simulate the LIN signals properly using ie Arduino or similar ucontroller. Nevertheless I thing the problem is a Tesla bug and if the actuators aren't physically damaged, then it will be most likely on the SW side of the car.

Whaat? You say guys that Tesla triggered new nerfing on 85s packs? I stopped sw updates on the version where I can open the diag port but would be very sad if they send it also to 100packs...And what Im also wondering about, why would they do that on packs which are out of warranty now....safety?

Yes, it's kind of weird, especially if the battery was warm enough. Can you use the SMT tool? Would be good to see whether the cells are balanced enough. You might try to let it sit at 100% long enough to let the BMS do its job..maybe it might be better then.. I'd also monitor the charging...

I can add that driving with my MS 85D upgraded to 100kWh, with temps around -5°C, highway driving at 115kph + big 650l cargo box on the roof results in +-300Wh/km :) Enjoy the winter in your Teslas, guys, what an experience is that!

Yes... now everything working as expected, driving on RM ON and no heating of battery... will have an eye on it nevertheless and try to find out if anything apart SCh can trigger it under RM... But what's quite of surprising for me, even when I'm mostly doing short distances while no hammering...

Really weird...now I entered the car parked in underground garage, current batt temp little bit over 8degC and in SMT I see this with Range mode on: And this with RM off: In both cases the heater didn't turn on. The only thing which came to my mind is the fact, that I always run the navi due...

Ok, would be great to know ;) Thx in advance for that..

Are those values valid for your P100D? Then I'd suppose it might be valid also for 100D as it's the same pack...

So Target bat active heat seems to be the problem... it's set way too high...would probably need to change the thermal profile...

Interesting... seems to be at least worth to try it out! Do you think it's also the case for the RCCM and maybe other actuators which often throws faults?

I see "100D" on the dash... but the truth is I have read or heard that I might have installed some bad temperature profile in the car, is that possible? I have also read in some article that 100kWh battery is much more sensitive to temperature in regard of fast charging which actually in my case...

Ah, ok, didn't realize.. Lifetime around 200-210Wh/km is totally ok. 335Wh/km even in -10°C while battery is warm seems quite high though... How much do you heat the cabin? Do you know your nominal capacity? It is possible to calculate it from what the car shows.. If you're facing high...

Ok, good to know, so the Toolbox I provided to you was possible to run following the instructions? I doubt my cracked Toolbox version would anyhow work with official Tesla servers :D This version is just meant for use together with factory mode and older firmware as you have mentioned ;)

Hi, no problems with updates as the car is now identified simply as "100D" according to its firmware. Also no contact from Tesla so far :D There might just be a problem when requesting some service from Tesla I have heard, but not sure about it, never tried it since. If you think about it, try...

It's +- the same as upgraded just the battery... So during summer I'm able to get under 170Wh/km even I'm not trying to hypermile, just normal driving.. The overall whole year average consumption I have is +-206Wh/km (of course excluding pre-heating/climating, vampire drain and so...). 300Wh/km...

Yeah, would be good to know, but to be honest, I have no idea...maybe some kind Tesla SC technician could give you a clue how does it work ;)

Seems like many features are missing, but I have no idea how to add it as I have almost zero experience with the app... Regarding TB3 sorry, I have never seen it. If you want, I could provide the TB2.1 RAR packages I have.

I think the behavior is as expected and it's just a SW feature, not a bug.. I have to leave the car outside as I live in apartment, so the battery gets cold. Now averaging around 300Wh/km but with a big 650l box on the roof rack, so that makes a sense. + There's also some added consumption when...

Ok, good to know the PTC is working for you now. PTC itself is also resistive element, so not sure, what "PTCR" stands for. In TB2 it's very simple as it's in the same "thermal" menu just next to the calibration procedure, very easy to find.

Next winter, still the same situation...Outside temps around -5degC and my wife pendling with kids around the city, just many few km drives. Car always preconditioning the battery making the consumption super high even with very low SOC... Would love to know how to turn this stupid feature off...

Hi, it was in offline TB 2.1 so is possible it's not there in TB3 anymore, but not sure about it.. Regarding the failed shutter tests, I think, that might be normal. As I have described earlier, it might be needed to let the system want to "touch" them to realize they're ok again. But that's...

Where did you get the screen? I tried Ali, but was not successful as the screen had probably damaged cable (only half of the image was visible). Nevertheless my friend was lucky and got well working piece. Yes, MCU2 is also an option.. not the cheapest on but it is. I got rid of the glass on...

It would be probably a bit difficult as the actuators are LIN bus driven, not by analog signal +5/12V or so... Also I think it's better when the car controls it as it knows also the feedback so for examole the fans don't have to run at max rpm and so on....

Hi, no issues with the battery so far, SuC speed still normal for my config. What do you mean by yearly inspection? I don't go to Tesla for service if you mean this. No, Romania is not the only one. I have found also EVclinic shop from Zagreb, Croatia. They're also willing to perform such...

Sorry, got you wrong.. Now it's clear..seems like you're experiencing the same symptoms as me, so there might be a clear solution..

Correct answer is: I have described the process here. That claim does not have to be always correct even though I've been told the same many times. For example in my case I believe it didn't apply. My louvers were 100% mechanically OK. They just randomly opened and closed when I moved with the...

Exactly... here is a link to great manual, how to downgrade if you're on newer SW than 2022.8.10.5. Nevertheless then the process of activating of the Factory mode would be a bit tricky. I have succeeded only once when my louvers needed a calibration trying several commands and I'm still not...

Yes, I did..will PM you tomorrow..