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Update: so - I found out about the black plug trick: this did nothing directly, plug with it unplugged, I could use the emergency cable to open the boot. I then found that by 'faking' that the boot was locked by pushing the latch shut with a screwdriver, resting the boot closed and then...

thanks - but it's the boot/trunk, not the frunk.

Hi all. 2017 Tesla P100D. This morning I closed the boot and walked away as normal, but when I came back I found it was not fully latched. Pressing to open gets me no movement and 3 beeps. The car shows it as boot open. I have tried pushing down, pulling up, doing these while pressing button...

pro job. £240 for windows, £150 for stripes.

Bound to polarise , but I am stoked with the result. Today I got my P100d Dechromed around the windows and added viper stripes. IMHO thry don't get more American muscle car that a P100d ! I got stripes to match the 21s, keying it all together. And I don't mind a bit of chrome, I just really...

Oh also, it seems to make it clear that the HV1.0/1.5 has it on top (needs dropping battery), and HV2.0 is on the bottom. So if it's possible to find out which you have, that should tell you what procedure you need ?

the service manual has pictures of the old style and new style fuses if it helps? https://service.tesla.com/docs/ModelS/ServiceManual/en-us/GUID-219B553D-392B-4B3B-9735-A20132B03C92.html Though as the article says, I'd think twice about poking about in there without the proper protection.

Hi chaps, I will be taking delivery of a 2017 Tesla Model S P100D towards the end of next week. So I thought I'd join here and have a look around. I live in Ipswich in the UK, and this will be my first fully electric car. I'm a long time sports car owner - having had things like 300zx, TVR...