Search results

Wow, after two and a half years of shuddering - it's actually gone, and just via software. It's been bugging the hell out of me and it's actually gone.

@EVPioneer, please DM me. I’d be very happy to tell you about our progress and plans. Thanks for reaching out! The car is at Petersen now and will be returned to the Electrified Garage in July, at which time we plan to build a battery, pull in some AC Propulsion staff, and some other early...

Yeah. 2% is about right. That said I didn't have any way of knowing how long it would be in the shop. They said a couple days. You know how they string you along. They've called me to say it's fixed twice and it wasn't. As for people in line - there's quite a bit of Plaid inventory now... Is...

So, my Plaid is a lemon. Literally. It's been broken the majority of the time I've owned it and I'm having them buy it back. Recently I had a particularly infuriating experience with the FSD subscription. I set it up a few months ago for a long road trip and in hopes I'd get the beta. Neither...

Bad luck at the service center. The replacement computer was even more broken than the original. I nearly drove off and it froze. They encouraged me to "shake off the cobwebs" and take it home but I refused. They offered to take it in right then and it broke so badly they had to push it back...

Mine is being replaced now. We'll see if it clears it up.

Can you try restarting the 12V? Open the frunk with the app. Take off the central piece of plastic above the storage bin by pulling from the sides. You'll feel some clips disengage; it's fine (I've done it a dozen+ times without breaking anything). Disconnect the fireman's loop near the battery...

OMFG that would be wild. Mine came up this morning. If it dies again I will definitely pull the drive. Actually... how would I even get the glove box open without the screen? Better pull it now...

Had this, it was the bracket that holds up the passenger rear seat. Wrapped it in electrical tape and the rattle went away. Have done this on a few cars.

Same issue is currently happening to my Plaid. I've had it clear up after pulling the 12v in the frunk but it doesn't always work. Been doing this for over a month now. Computer gets replaced tomorrow. Service response has not been good. This morning it randomly came back up after 7 days of...

Rough. I have the vibration and the tire skidding, and the blank screens. I wonder how widespread this is.

Worked the first time, not since. Just starts up with a blank screen. Pretty disappointing. Since the mirrors are folded in (geofencing at my garage) I can't even drive it legally anywhere now, even with the screens off, as they won't fold out. What a joke. You buy Tesla's literal most...

Would love to - if my screens turned on in the first place...

Are there any hidden ways to reboot the Plaid/LR? Pressing in both wheels with or without the brake pedal doesn't do it for me.

I've had a long-standing issue with my Plaid that's taken it out of service for the last ~3 weeks with no end in sight. The screens simply fail to boot. The center screen is on (you can see the backlight) but nothing will get the car to respond. Still drives, unlocks, dome lights work, etc...

NHRA. Anything below 10 requires driver certification, cage, fire suppression, etc. They just rubbed the numbers off the car after the first run I did under 10. Was fun for all involved really, they weren't that mad, more tickled.

Was kicked off the track a month ago. Track managers have no tolerance for cars breaching 10sec, EV or gas.

Just got the "Agreements" tab on my reservation page after weeks of the date moving back, one day at a time. Looks like the logjam is cleared!

I have the car. Thanks to Jen and Rob for being so helpful regarding information on this car, and again to Rob for delivering it. I don't intend to race it; just to restore it. I am now working to recover as many of the original parts as possible. I understand that JB may have some of these...

Yep, Top Gear's MO is to sandbag Teslas in drag races. They just did the same with the P100D vs Taycan comparison.

Sorry to burst your bubble but this will be 63,115 new (64,990 excluding tax credit) from Tesla. Most cars of that value would depreciate to 58k the moment you drove it off the lot. The offer from Tesla at 50,000 is very fair and exactly in line with what you should expect for a year-old P3D...

That was it ^ I got them from evtuning. Great price imo.

I'm still surprised by the decision to make Chill/Sport mode actually affect AP. When I'm in AP, I don't want the car pushing the limits of the car's acceleration on the highway. I want it to drive smoothly, stay in its lane, and not make sudden movements. It is surprising to me that it's still...

The craziest part was that the Tesla service tech told me he looked at the pads and they were fine. I assume he didn't actually take them out, so he couldn't see the cracking, but he should have noticed the uneven wear. Instead, he said this creaking noise was normal. It's obviously not normal...

Yep, that looks very familiar!

Found out what it was. The Tesla technician told me the brakes were fine, maybe just needed some lubrication. I took it to a proper shop and they showed me pads that were very much not fine: Probably from a hard day at the track. The stock pads can't handle it. I'm replacing them with RB...

@MountainPass Are the instructions at MPP Coilover Installation Instructions up to date then?

That makes the sound too. A friend indicated it might be unlubricated caliper pins. Mine was one of the very first P3D+ cars so it is very possible. There are other things wrong with this car (brake drag, misaligned passenger door, paint bubbles) so I guess it's finally time to schlepp to the...

Noticed as of a few days ago that the brakes on my P3D+ are making a bit of a metallic settling noise when being used. It sounds similar to how it sounds when a wheel settles on the hub when you're tightening lug nuts. All four wheels are doing it, but the back passenger is the loudest. It's...

I've run the "18X9.5 ET35 APEX EC-7 MUSTANG WHEEL" from APEX Race Parts to great effect on the track with some sticky rubbers. Just barely fits the stock P3D+ calipers. You don't need a spacer because the bore is larger than stock, and I haven't run hubcentric rings but you certainly could. It's...

I don't really feel it necessary to argue why this is useful to me, because it's clearly not useful to you. But not all of us have fast charging at home, or we might be away from home and that extra 25 miles of range could be the difference between an SC stop and no stop at all. Your use case is...

Why have a J1772 adapter under this logic? Even an extra 10% of charge when stopping in a store is useful.

Glad to see it. Still waiting for CCS-Combo to Tesla, even in AC-mode. We have a bunch of combo chargers around here that won't work at all with a Model 3. They're at useful places like IKEA, grocery stores, etc.

18" wheels will help. Tesla still doesn't make Aeros that will fit the performance brakes but Tire Rack has quite a few sets that will fit. I've ordered two, both fit fine.

@spinbackwards If you're concerned about the safety of your 20" wheels in the snow, don't order the TSportlines, they are over a month backordered. Check out TireRack, if you select a 2018 Tesla Model 3 w/ Performance Brakes they'll show you the combinations that will actually fit over the...

Preconditioning in Cold Weather gives the legend for the heating indicators you see in the app. I've never seen the battery heating icon on my 3, not surprising since it doesn't have a discrete battery heater. The wave icon seems to just be seat heat. I haven't had any luck getting the battery...

Nope, still waiting on that and the badge, 3 months+ after delivery. I've seen the Dual Motor badge showing up on new AWD deliveries, so I'm sure our badges and spoilers are coming Soon™

What's your source on this? It's strange that the Model S would have an exact power of 2. (2^15)

You do realize that what you actually said is up there in black & white, right? You can't misquote yourself and say you were right all along. Regardless, if you actually did click through to the results (did you?) you would see that common alternators range from 80A to 140A @ 13.8V. 500W is 45%...

LMGTFY

Best image I can find of the Model 3 TMS, which uses a single loop as opposed to S/X's three, is from SeekingAlpha: The article is from 2016 so a few things might have changed in the meantime.

Hell, even the right 18" wheels do: https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Tesla&autoModel=Model+3+Performance&autoYear=2018&autoModClar=Performance+Brakes&package=false - I have the TRMotorsport C4s on mine and it clears.

My thought process was: I have no idea when TST will actually ship, their wheels are great but priced too high (and the tires are a huge profit center at ~40% markup), and nobody really cares what my wheels look like when the car is covered in ice, slush, and dirt. TireRack will get winter...

Was just told by a rep down at Highland Park that Tesla believes they will be able to start building WI Service Center soon. Interim location is Milwaukee. Apparently some change in the law has occurred or is about to but I'm unable to find a record of it. Thought this could be useful...

Was told that VINs are assigned in blocks based on color for whatever reason. So it's not necessary a build date indicator. More popular colors are more likely to have higher VINs.

Why mount A/S if you already have summer tires? Mount snows. A picture of the TireRack wheels on my P3D (sorry for potato quality):

You can get TireRack to ship pretty damn quickly to a service center. I wouldn't drive at 20 degrees on those. Driving them will heat them up which is going to be bad for the soft compounds in the tires. Even more important than ruining 4 $300 tires: the probability of losing traction and...

You literally just revived it after it had been dormant for 12 days. If you want it to die, stop posting to it.

Just 8, but I could see from TeslaFi that they floored it each time around (~330 kW peak output).

So you switched to 18" from the stock 20" with the PUP, or did you order non-PUP? FWIW considering switching my PUP 20s for something lighter as I'm not a huge fan of the ~17 extra pounds per wheel.